Who cares if it's bolt on if it works.
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Who cares if it's bolt on if it works.
yeah, lots of bolt ons indicates that you started with a decent platform
it's bolt on so chodes that think they need hydroassist on the street for their big gay douche trucks can just slap it on in the parking lot of the frat house. $5 of plate can accomplish what that $200 bracket does, unless you're an inept fabricator. if you want to flush the $ for a bolt on ram mount that's going to get smashed on the rocks, be my guest.
it looks like a 60, the same platform as every other truck out there...
So your problem is not that it's bolt on...it's that chode frat boys might use it to accessorize their big gay trucks.
no. don't worry about it. i'm done.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
make sure you have the centers all the way in the wheel when you go to weld them and that the wheels aren't out of round too bad. mine were a little and it caused them to sit in there crooked.
Vilas made me a new steering stop.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0156-1.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0157-1.jpg
Bottom side machined out so it doesn't hit the seal.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0158-1.jpg
Tie rod tabs, I went ahead and made them out of 3/8" since I had it laying around. (Mock up bolt)
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0162-1.jpg
Tucks up nicely behind the tie rod.
das pretty.
No bead stiffeners?
I think money was tight. These were to be used at tcc but we ran out of time to mount the tires.
hope you can get these studs out if you f them up
There's enough room in there to put a new one in.
did you even lay out the welds so the wheels would be close to balanced, I would have welded it solid all of the way around.
?? What am I missing? Why would it be an issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by sasquatch
I'm guessing because the holes in the centers aren't lined up with the studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
usually you line up the holes in the pressed center with the studs so that you can press the studs out and press new ones in if you need to.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
It was 4 in the morning and I thought I had measured them out all of the way......clearly I didn't. I'm going to fully weld them before I put them on.
As far as rock rings, they're on the list but I am out of money.
Plenty of room on mine to put in a new stud (if you can find one), put the nut on, and pull it in with an impact. Think I have the same centers and doubt you are going with tons of backspacing.
My rock rings have little 1" openings all around, to let water/mud out. Most of those little 1" sections are bent in. Not enough to leak, but obviously the rings are doing the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
All of the pressed centers are the same. Trailworthyfab sells the studs. I'm definately getting rock rings before it's next run, I was just trying to get some kind of beadlock on there before tcc.
I like Davido's style of running hummer wheels, bolt on and go.
I made a half-assed attempt to run un-recentered wheels initially. I aquired a set of dually hubs for the front but got hung up on the rear. Steel 4" wheel spacers cost more than new centers. I could have run a DRW D70 with SRW 14 bolt hubs on it but I already had gears, a locker and disk brakes invested in my 14 bolt so I decided to recenter. Texas Truck Riggins charged me $75 to sandblast the wheels and considering how tough that CRC paint is, it was money well spent.
Isn't a normal dually rear axle the same width as the front? The inside rear tires follow right behind the fronts. I believe this is how Andy's now Brandini's scout is set up.
Anyone use rebar rings like these? Whats the drawbacks? I was thinking of using them as inner rock rings since I already have outers
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73601
think john cox or somebody did that on here
now 65" wide....same as a Tj......sitting on the diamond plate lift blocks which are a little too tall so that's why there's a gap at the top.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0238.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0235.jpg
Now for the fun part welding it back together
What are you going to do for the engine/trans hump?
12" body lift right?
They actually put some very good thought into this. They cut out the entire old hump and saved it, so they can center it and reuse it. Great idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I dig it
Trans hump was cut out with the brake pedal/booster hole. We will put it in place and trim the excess and weld it in.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0230-1.jpg
I'm cautiously optimistic of what I see so far.
This might not totally suck
Does the fuse panel get squeezed together in this plan? Or are you just going to get a new one and relocate?
Getting a fuse block from a tj. It has like 18 fuses and 8 relays. Then 4 pin weatherpack connectors to the 12voltguy switch panel.
While you're chopping, see if you can do something about lowering the front of the hood some. Assume you need a new radiator anyway.
I've been thinking about that. I'm going to actually mount the seat high enough to see over the hood this time. That's alot of work for a small visibility gain IMO
I thought about cutting the bottom 3 inches off the hood to lower it, but think the hood is too crucial for those sexy good looks. I'd say leave it for now.