The box was completely dry when I installed it. The pump is full now, but maybe fluid is not getting into the box somehow?
I am pretty sure all Ford boxs are the same. The one that is in now is one I got from Tate many years ago.
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The box was completely dry when I installed it. The pump is full now, but maybe fluid is not getting into the box somehow?
I am pretty sure all Ford boxs are the same. The one that is in now is one I got from Tate many years ago.
if the engine is off and the tires off of the ground does it turn smoothly
can you crack the return line at the box to see if it is pumping. I wouldn't think that it would be airlocked, but funnier things have happened.
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I cracked the return line and it is definetely pumping.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Ok, I might lose you here, but let me explain.....Ove the past 2-3 runs, my steering will all of a sudden 'go out'. It will let me turn slightly but that is it. Once I hit say a rock or a a bump or somthing the right way, it seems to work just fine again. Since these episodes, it has sat in the driveway while I do this engine swap. In this process, I have changed the gear box to the one I got from Tate years ago, I have swapped on a sag. pump from A1 Cardone. I also replaced both pressure and return lines.
It is acting now just like it did out on the trail like I descibed. Like the whole setup is in a bind.
My tierod for now is a stock F350 piece. The d-link is above the leaf and goes to the ORU knuckle (just like a high steer arm for you KP guys) The d-link runs at an upward angle (it is maybe 2" lower at the pitman arm than where is mounts at the knuckle) I do not think this is an issue though, just stated what I am working with.
My steering shaft has seen a hard life and I know I have never replaced it. COuld that be the issue?
O, and apparently putting square port headers on round port heads with square port gaskets causes exhaust leaks:D
its sounds like something mechanical is binding up. maybe in the steering column
or maybe even in the front axle, could your axle shafts be moving enough that the ujoint binds when you try to turn the wheel?
does it whine or make any noises when it binds up? Maybe it's in your column or shaft somehow???
Ya beat me to it... :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
i have had similiar problems with my power steering mainly being related to having air in the system.
the way i cured it was jack up the whole front end with tires of the ground turn lock to lock 10-15 times in a row with the engine off. I have heard some people will crank the engine but not fire it, but havent ever tried this.
then refill the pump as needed. Then turn the motor on and repeat the lock to lock another 15-20 times as needed, with the cap off you should see air bubbles coming out most likely. Do this till there is no air bubbles for at least 4-5 lock to lock turns.
Now set the front tires back on the ground and do lock to lock again with the engine on, and see if there is any problems with steering if so repeat the full process again. It seems like a pain in the ass, but i worked on big nasty when i swapped to the saginaw setup, and various times when i have switched hydro assist rams.
Also when i had the rag joint in the steering shaft it seems to bind up some when the joint was trashed. Do yourself a favor and replace the rag joint with a u joint and it will steer alot better. hope this helps in some way
Thanks frick, this did help some.
I feel dumb, but I think it might have been b/c the hubs were locked. I unlocked them and backed up a little and it seems to be working fine now.
scout's the same way. if the hubs and diff are locked, no turn. roll it just a smidge and it turns fine.
My reverse lights dont come on. What sends the signal to teh bulbs?
No brake lights. I am pretty sure I replaced the swith recently.
Headlights and parking lights work. Blinkers work. But when headlights are on, blinkers do not blink.
I got it idleing pretty nice now, it sounds good.
reverse light switch is usually in the shifter mechanism, but i have no clue on fords.
do you have a voltmeter? sounds like you need one.
on my 85 the switch was on the drivers side of the transmission.
I got more done today. I fixed the ps leak as well as the small coolant leak and got the last of the fenders trimmed. We also set the timing 12degress below and it seems to idle and run great, but I seem to have a new problem. While ideling(and probably while driving too I just can't hear it) I hear an occasional 'knock' or maybe its a 'slap' It is pretty random and seems to do it no matter if its hot or cold. Definetely sounds like metal on metal. Sounds like it is more towards the bottom of the block. Almost like the chain hitting the cover? ANy ideas with that vague description?
Still have a pretty bad metal on metal sound from the front of the motor. Havent figured that one out yet. Idles and runs great.
I put the dash back together and wired up the rock/backup lights.
I really need to figure out the brakes b/c they suck bad. Ever heard of "gutting" the prop valve after doing a rear disc conversion to get more flow to the rear? My pedal goes to the floor, I've bled them many times.