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Generally rubber does not like parts washer solvent. The crank has to be attached to something right? How else does it transmit power. So somewhere the crabnk exits the case and there has to be a seal. Are you working on a dirt bike? If so this would be behind the drive sprocket.
I need to drill two 7/8" holes through my 1" thick high steer arms. Easiest way to accomplish this using the least amount of bits?
Drill press, low speed, and lots of lube.
Working on some trick little lights for my Axial RC truck, and am trying to figure out how to control the voltage.
I have read where I can get a 9volt battery down to 4.5v w/ a couple of resistors setup like in this picture below. How would I do it coming from an 11.7v battery?
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../9vbattery.jpg
Put it on a mill and use a hole hawg or take it to someone that has one. The finish will be much better. If you insist on doing it on a drill press, drill a 1/4" pilot hole and follow BDRs advice. There is no reason you should burn up any drill bits doing this.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
machine shopQuote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
I have done this many times and I think only once with good results. Seems the large bits usually like to jump around instead of just drilling straight down the pilot hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Here is my recommendation. Drill a pilot hole, 3/8" or so. Then get a unibit that goes to 7/8". Use this unibit, slowly, with lube, to get the 7/8" hole started. Then switch to a 7/8" bit and finish the hole.
The unibit will start a good hole and the 7/8" bit will follow it through. Otherwise, when just stepping up bit sizes, I find that the large bit doesn't like to just follow the pilot hole. It chatters and you end up with a larger hole than you wanted.
You having this problem w/ a drill press? Too fast me thinks. I have never had a problem w/ firm pressure, slow speed and plenty of lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I lobbed that one up there for you guys, who's going to hit it out of the park?
Yes.
Is there a difference in a dodge np231 and a jeep np231? If so what?
Does anyone have a Chevy 60 stub and a Chevy 60 spindle that I can look at? Making this knuckle work is becoming a pain. When I get the Ford spindle on this hybrid knuckle, it will not go on all the way. When I hit the nuts with an impact, it basically locks the shaft to the spindle, making it unable to turn. The distance from the spindle mounting flange to the center line of the balljoint is 3/8" difference as well.
I was under the impression though that the only difference between Ford/GM spindles was the length, but there must be some difference in the area of where the spindle slides into the knuckle.
A GM 60 will use a 5-332x u joint and a Ford 60 will use a 55-4x. This leads me to believe that there might be a difference in the ears, which might allow a spindle (either Ford or GM) to work.
I have a spindle and stub here in Crosby if you wanna take a look tomorrow after work.
you aren't per chance, holding the work piece by hand rather than clamping it down are you? maybe using a crappy drill press? your holes are triangular shaped arent they? try a smaller pilot hole. just bigger than the unsharpened portion of the drill bit tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I think it may be a crappy drill press. Still strong enough I wouldn't attempt to hold it by hand. Could be crappy bits. I have found that using a smaller pilot hole works better.
Buying forged parts...worth it? I need to buy new spindles and hubsQuote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
35 spline outers? ANy preference? Yukons the cheapest?
Drive flanges? They all seem the same, except for the cover. I would prefer not to advertise.
U-joints seem stupid expensive. I will need to connect a Chevy outer to a Ford inner.
Anyone know if dodge/jeep/ford np 208's have the same output splines? Do the dodge and jeep ones use a front output flange like a chevy or a yoke like a ford?
the NP208J i had, had a 1310 yoke. dont know about the dodge.
Interweb research shows dodge and chevy front outputs to be the same.
Anybody have cookie cutter plans for a 400hp 351W to go in my Mustang? I wanna go fast.
edit: maybe just 300hp.
random tech answer:
when replacing an axleshaft using the "no-pack" method, pull the hub lockout assembly first. Not having to slide the stub splines in while you're manhandling the rest of the hub assy makes life much easier.
Also it occurs to me that said hub assy and axle assy are currently hanging on my inner axle seal since it started raining before I got the caps bolted on. Which means it's probably trashed and gonna leak as soon as I fill it if I don't put a new seal in before I button it up tonight. Dam.
for simplicity, edelbrock power pack. if you are talking about that old stang of yours, then go with a 347 with around 10:1 compression, a set of AFR's or trick flows, rpm intake, and decent cam, fuel delivery of your choice and you will be well into the 400 rangeQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Ryan's answer is probably the best, but...Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
I'm not a big fan of 347 or bigger budget small blocks. I would say stay in the 302-333 ci range, work over some 289 heads, 11-1 comp, RPM intake, big ass carb, cam that peaks somewhere around 7500-8000 RPMs. Then put it on some gas.
also recommended for 400 hp:
headers, e fan, ignition, decent rear end, locker or spool, sub frame work, probably air bags, brakes, tires, clutch, decent gauges, AND mufflers and more
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-5141B010/Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
What about these? What size combustion chamber should I be going for? Smaller?
those heads are bare. there is a lot that goes into determining CC size, determine your rotating assembly first and then match the head to your expections. I was just throwing those heads out there for reference, there are many heads for a lot less that will give you what you want. i.e. Pro1 and partiot are the frist ones that come to mind. Go to Barnes and Nobles and get yourself the book called "big inch ford small blocks" there is tons of info in there
why air bags?Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
helped keep a dd launching straight, aired up the when racing. could easily adjust for different tires and nitrous.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
Is there a way to tell what gearing I have without pulling the carrier?
jack up rear end, put in neutral, mark tire, turn drive shaft over and count how many times tire rotates in one revolution of driveshaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
If its stock ford sh!t isnt it most likely 3.55?
Jerry is very good at guessing percentages of a rotation. I however, rotate the tire and count driveshaft revolutions, its much more accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryg79
yes i had it backwardsQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Not as accurate, but if the tird is running, here you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
With GPS, get on highway. Go in straight line, in 4th gear. Record mph and tach setting. Go home, measure OD of tires. Now here is the part where I am going to confuse you.
Now, mph = speed, D = the diameter of your tires
(MPH * 5280)/(3.14*D*60) = revolution per minute at the wheel <--- fixed this
Now, tach = RPM's on your tach
tach * (Tranny's 4th gear ratio, I think 1.0 for you) * (TCase gear, should be 1.0) = Revolutions per minute at the output of the tcase
Now divide Revolutions per minute at the output of the case by revolution per minute at the wheel.
Yours is mostly likely 3.55, but could be 4.11
wow karl, you even confused me!Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Haha yeah Karl you stupid idiot, to get from hrs to minutes you divide by 60, not multiply! God, how dumb are you? Jeez!
:flipoff2:
before you do all that ****, have you checked to see if the 9 still has the ratio tag on it....:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
it's probably 3.50/3.55
Sorry, I will go back to the normal conversation and grammer on this board...Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Due any of you guys now wat tooner will werk on my diesel?
Correct, my mistake.... Microsoft Formula apparently does not work on message boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
You trying to figure diameter in inches or feet? I am thinking feet.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
If you want to do it in inches, use this formula.
(MPH * 63360)/(3.14*D*60)
I plugged it into excel, and a 35" tire at 2150rpm and 60mph get you a wheel RPM of 576.52 and a 3.73 axle ratio.
use this xls file, just fill in the yellow blocks
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH