thanks... i think I saw it in a pic the other day but wasnt really paying attention to it
Printable View
Here you go...let me know if you need a shot from any other angle.
ok the Aussie locker is loud... I think it is because the pinion seal in the axle leaks so bad (refer to barb-wire pic earlier in this thread)... i don't know if I will have time to replace it before this weekend so I guess I am gonna keep pumping gear oil into the thing
I got a used spare tire that is the same size and also ordered some KM2's... hope they come in before the weekend
the aussie locker will quiet down after a short time, heavier gear oil helps too. You will really enjoy its performance
just put in thicker oil, the cure too all life's problems!
85x140 is in it already
w?
just squeeze a tube or two of grease in there. ;)
well I got the oil pan dropped and surveyed the dammage... wasnt too bad. I tried to weld it up with the arc welder but it just burnt through. what rods should I use to keep it from burning though? or do I need to find someone with a mig
eastwood company used to sell this deal that split your amperage in half for arc welding sheetmetal, if you're already using 1/16 rods turned all the way down maybe you should try that. Or a mig.
if its 220, unplug one of the legs on the extension cord, i bet thats all the thing you are talking about did
long arc your rod too it will help lower the amperage and heat
back it with a piece of wood you don't mind burning a little (will help to keep the weld from melting out so fast)
update. after sittling for about 3 months I put the oil pan back in. the rear main leaks a little but i will fix that later. I replaced the pinion seal in the 30 also.
a few weeks after having it back together i almost got stuck because i didnt realize the transfercase linkage came unhooked when I had the crossmember dropped. needless to say that has not been corrected yet. I doubt i will mess with it until the week before its next trip.
So I am off and bored today... I started the day off with getting an inspection and then pulled the front bumper off to finally put some paint on it. I think I am gonna crawl under it and fix the 4wd linkage finally... I am tired of shifting it into 4wd by crawling under the jeep and pulling on the linkage by hand.
do you still want that cage for it?
Well bumper is back on... transfercase linkage is back together. Only took 20 min should have done that a long time ago. and yes I still want the cage... PM me how much it is again and lets try and make arangements to get it.
Tate, what has this bumper gained you over a stock bumper? I mean, you could have drilled holes in the stock bumper to mount lights, and there are bolt on tow hooks for TJs. Am I missing something?
[the dude] you're not missing anything, walter, you're just an a$$hole! [/]
:D
and i didnt have a stock bumper either
You might regret it at TCC if the sun comes out pretty good, but push comes to shove just get some cheap floor mats and make a cover.
Is there a better way than others to go to a quick disconnect door pin on a full door TJ. I was looking online for maybe an aftermarket pin but haven't seen anything. Was thinking I would just cut the nut off the bottom and tack weld the bolt to the top of the hinge but wanted to know if there was a better solution.
the bolt should be part of the upper hinge. on Mine I left the nut off and then all you have to do is pick up on the door and they come right off
10-4 exactly what I was thinking
works good... guess i need to make sure the pin is greased well before I rr-install the door so it is easier to pull off... works good though... thanks for the info
Antisieze works wonders