Creighton, do you still have this?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
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Creighton, do you still have this?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
yes, I do and I even found the brackets to bolt it through the body and too the roll cage.
So the top mounts through the body and to the bottom of the cage and the bottom mounts to the body mount? And then attached to the tailgate so it all opens togther? How much? Id have to figure out how to get it down here
My brother can help get it to Houston if that works better for you, he is going to Dallas this weekend.
let me double check and make sure I have all of the parts.
If I have everything to install it I am thinking $75
Or I would really like to trade it for ford 1350 CV driveshaft parts
I will be there friday thru Monday morning around the Knox/Henderson area
Don't have any cv parts but id do $75 for sure. Andrew, you thinking I'm in CS? I'm back in SA now
I keep forgetting.
Sharpe will be in Dallad next weekend. I will send it down with him
Perfect! PM me your address or a Wells Fargo account number. Thanks Creighton.
Sent. Sharpe says he can get it this coming weekend
Got the SYE done. One step closer to full Jeep bro. A 231 is sure lighter than a doubler.:D
Medium sizes trans pan leak probably from dent from Clayton. Going to fix that and get it back together. Also found some adjustable lowers on CL. Need adjustble uppers now.
I got the tire carrier on. Looks ok.
Work to begin on Project Altomaster Annihilator soon.:cool::confused2:cool::confused2:flipoff2: #fvckyouevan
[QUOTE=JB;298543]Got the SYE done. One step closer to full Jeep bro. A 231 is sure lighter than a doubler.:D
Medium sizes trans pan leak probably from dent from Clayton. Going to fix that and get it back together. Also found some adjustable lowers on CL. Need adjustble uppers now.
I got the tire carrier on. Looks ok.
Work to begin on Project Altomaster Annihilator soon.:cool::confused2:cool::confused2:flipoff2: #fvckyouevan[/QUOTE
H A H A H A H A
My creativity is unmatched
As long as it's all bolt ons
:flipoff2:
Hey Sparling, how's that rig coming?
Oh you got me! Problem is, it's in CS and I haven't had time to get it, and someone tried driving it and now it doesn't start.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html
JB this is what I would do for steering. you would just need to get the knuckles and pitman arm reamed out to 1 ton taper.
What about those TRE inserts ruffstuff has? Are they okay to use or should those be avoided if you're upgrading?
These things:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...STEER-2PK.html
I would only use those inserts if I was on a real tight budget, what happens if those become loose?
How? They have a lip to keep them from going all the way through and the nut on the TRE will keep them from coming out the other way.
I guess it really shouldn't cost much more than those inserts to get the knuckles reamed if you take them off and to a machine shop or find someone who has a reamer though.
pretty sure I have a reamer somewhere. I purchased one after Vilas ****ed up my 60 knuckles after I took them to be reamed
I am not keeping the 30 though.
I have those inserts on my cj and havent had a problem with them. I borrowed JBs GM reamer a few yrs back to do my d-30 knuckles. . . . I know I returned it to your place off hwy21.
What are you going to go with?
Dana5000s
What I did for my steering for a cheap fix and held up great until i blew the motor, was i took the tie rod and slid a piece of schedule 40 pipe over the whole thing and welded it to both ends. That seemed to help a lot and was cheap. Before that it seemed like i would put a kink the steering every trip. A trail fix that i learned at trees was to pull the steering loose, straighten as much as possible, pull one end free and slide the handle of your high lift over it and reassemble
Let me re-phrase my opinion, if you had the steering knuckle sitting on your garage table, to the left of it you had those inserts and to the right you had a drill with a reamer bit on it, which one would you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
just get another T post
The T-post tie rod broke off at the end of the t-post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbent
Just get a longer t-post....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
A longer t-post still has two ends. Now a t-post rolled in a circle... :facemeltedoff:Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
#takeyourvoodootoanotherthred.
Having both defeats the purpose of the inserts. If I had a d30 that I didn't plan on keeping, I would most definitely use the inserts if I didn't already have a reamer. If it was a bigger axle that was going to stay a while, I would find a reamer to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
The little Jeep did great at Clayton 2014. I didn't break anything and the locker held up.
Two things i did notice.
1) the oil pressure gauge usually reads 0. I haven't researched it yet, but BDR says its pretty standard for the 4.0. Annoying "check gauges"
light comes on and chimes.
2) Even after installing the 136 amp alternator and larger gauge wire, whenever I hit the winch cable(with a load on it or not) it still kills the radio. Not sure why.
I did have a flat when I got home, but I think it is from ripping up the valve stem at Frielings. I initially had the pressure at 12, but after wheeling it Thursday night, I lowered to 7. BIG difference, walked up everything I couldnt the night before.
I need lower gearing for sure. Always feel like I am smoking the brakes.
Need more tire/clearance.
Leaning more towards a 44 up front, chromos all around and 37s and it would do everything I want it to.
Check your cab ground, or add one. That would be my first spot to check the radio.
if you get a rubi or other bolt in 44 get the gusset and tube kit to strengthen it. with larger tires they tend to bend the tubes and inner c's. kit is cheap and an easy weld in.
Did great at K2 last weekend. I spliced the winch rope back together and swapped in a new passenger shaft. Then I left it in the backyard while I worked on something else and the sprinklers soaked it, which fried the radio.
Need to start looking at D44 front options. Found a 80 FS Cherokee at the junkyard with a 6 lug 44, but I think it was low pinion. I think Sparling has a Ford 44 that might work.
Do scout 44s work?
He needs driver drop
80+ fsj is lp and 6 lug but it could be made into 5x5.5 or even 8 lug
if you want hp you will have to go ford
early bronco is lp