and why did you get 12... wouldnt you just need 8
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and why did you get 12... wouldnt you just need 8
Think harder Jimmy, that only requires 10 joints.
You disassemble them to weld. The caps are threaded I think.
what are you talking about, dumbass!
im confused still
a leaf spring 4 link?
4 link and a watts linkage.
Finally got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
I heard that doesn't work.
i dont understand why you need both.
Well, I don't have room for a triangle 4 link because I don't like building exhaust again. And Scott says 3 links going forward isn't enough so I put a 4th. But because of no triangle I need a panhard which St. John says is better. But Scott says a normal panhard will break so I put an extra. This is the best of both types.
There was a cruiser awhile back that had a watts linkage. Really neat and stable but not so flexy. Granted he had huge tires and not alot of room so he might have limited it. It looks kind of complicated to get it setup right and be strong. Any perticular reason your going that way or just want to give it a shot? If anyone can make it work, your crazy polish ass can.
You're going link happy because of exhaust? Something about that seems wrong with that :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Crazy Douggy. You talk the mill into making a 465-465 adapter for you yet?
no, but you should see the amount of 1" plate I have. You need some?
Not sure what I'd do with it. I can find a use.
Hey I might need some of that plate for this new project i am working on :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I saw these girls that were "so so" looking at the airport bar last Friday, they were talking to this "Mike" looking dude. I thought to myself, I bet those b!tches are in pharmecutical sales...
Leaf springs to coils! Nice comparison.
Good job Captain Obvious.
still doing the watts linkage?
done
The lower links really do weigh about 50 lbs each without joints. This stuff's gonna weigh quite a bit more than the leafs did. It's moving along. I just don't work as fast as in my younger days. Got all the dam brackets made and tacked on.
I think his lack of flex was he was running a radius arm setup, not a four link. The watts link was pretty trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
I know I'm dumb, but I don't see how a watts linkage makes any sense in rockcrawling.
Seems like any amount of vertical travel of the whole axle (ie both tires droop) and the Watts would try to rotate the axle and eventually bind
You using square tubing for those links?
Nope, just my regular sleeved with drill stem.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
can you show me a pic of a watts linkage... this is a foreign term to me and i dont feel like searching
http://www.opentracking.com/WattsLink-TA.JPGQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Here is a Watts link. I imagine Kopecki's would be mounted on top of the axle with the center link bar mounted horizontally...that's how I've seen it before on a 4x4.
you got any pictures Kopecki
So it's a weird 3-link with opposing panhard bars?
That guy from top truck challenge with the blue FJ was in Clayton one year with a track bar set up like that but it was horizontal on top of the diff
Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
it keeps it perfectly centered instead or relatively centered like a panhard bar. I think Kopecki said his was going to be a 4 link with the watts linkage.
This helps explain it a little
http://www.spitzracing.com/watts_link.htm
So there I was, welding away on the frame rail, when suddenly, the sum***** caught big fire flames. Turns out somebody arced a fuel line. So that was the end of last night.
Got started again this morning 11:00. Finished at 9. It sits about 1.5" lower than it used to, so if anybody has some 2" lift springs for a TJ or XJ I'm in the market for them. I'm missing my camera again so no pics, maybe I draw one tomorrow. Sure acts different now.
is there a reason you can't make adjustable-height upper coil buckets?
They'd have to be spacers. If the coils were mounted on the side of the frame it'd be easy to do by just bolting it on and having lots of different holes. But they're mounted under the frame. I could weld somethin like a 1.5" allthread to the bottom of the frame and weld the upper bucket to a nut so it could be spun up and down and have another nut to lock it. But that's more work and I'm lazy and wouldn't mind stiffer springs either. It soft.
This is what I was thinking, but I couldn't find the pictureQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
So, I decided to build exhausts. Got my muffler and started planning, couldn't find a dam place to put it. No room in the normal area. Maybe if I got a dual offset 10" long muffler. So I went to my local parts store and found the answer. Got all the driveshaft parts I need, so probably build one of those today. Seguin Driveline said they could make a driveshaft out of 2" .120" wall tubing for me, so any of yall that are into buying driveshafts may want to check there. Then work on motor problems later. Maybe even put some spacers under the coils. Also found my digital camera so I can get yall some pictures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
hmm, vague, this should be good
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Was that a typo, or is the shaft really only gonna be .120 wall? I may be wrong, but that seems kinda thin. My old high angle was a lot thicker than that (I'm thinking it was .250). My current square shafts are also .250 wall, and they still have some pretty deep gouges
Doubtful... I don't care what he told you - it wasn't that thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN