rear is not as heavy as the front of your truck...nor is the rear as heavy as the rear of a wagoneer
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rear is not as heavy as the front of your truck...nor is the rear as heavy as the rear of a wagoneer
whoa whoa whoa....setting deadlines already? and soon? wtf? eric was right...i think we need to re-read the TAMOR by-laws and introduce these newbies to the part that says "no project shall be finished in a timely manner". :flipoff2:
good job man. keep up the pace.
you can come help finish the yota since you seem to love working so fast :flipoff2:
i gotta have this thing done soon or i wont have anything to drive to CS, its either this or a 73 CJ5 with no top, i like the one with AC better.
ok tonights progress, have it drivin tomorrow hopefully.
looks muuuuuch better :gigem:
still too tall
ditch the body lift
and keep a prybar handy (or make some anti-inversion shackles)
:D
thanks, i put them the same distance as a waggys and the springs havent settled much yet at all and that is also without winch on there, so i think they will eventually settle back a little, hooked up steering tonight and tomorrow bleed brakes and see how she drives.
ok got her drivin but has a little bit of bump steer, the shocks that i have on there are pretty wore out and not a good length could this be the problem or should i run a steering stabilizer, steering stabilizers fix bump steer right? its a highsteer set up.
Post a picture of how it is set up. You may just have an alignment problem. A steering stabilizer will just hide an existing problem, not fix it. New shocks might help, but I doubt they would do much more than just smooth out some of hte harsher bumps.
after we finished nix's full width swap the 1st test drive was without any shocks on front. it was crazy steering. after we put shocks on it made a huge difference. got rid of a lot of wobble in the ride and steering.
Some of the bump steer could be from castor, or worn out ball-joints on knuckles, steering slop in the links, joints, or box.
i think the shocks are key the ones i was using were maxed out at ride height not allowing the suspension to flex down, i think with proper length shocks it will show great improvement, the steering gear is new, new ball joints, and castor set to 4 degrees like stock waggy, alignment could be off right now the tires are toed in an inch. will post pics when not so tired. thanks
Shocks that have a little movement will help then...
took the truck to a old spring shop in houston to level out the rear end, and they rearched the rear springs and added a few cut springs and put a centerpin through it all, the pictures explain it. Drove it and it seems to drive alright havent had it faster than 30 gets a little squirly with no shocks. I have a couple of questions about shocks though, first off i have the shocks mounted on top of the c casting on the axle which was real temporary and dont like this setuyp at all, going to move them down to tube. Also i know this is driving without shocks but it seems everytime you hit a bump the steering wheel moves erratically from side to side, i am hoping shocks will fix this, i posted pics of the steering setup, the way the shocks will be mounted will have to be on front of the axle, is this alright or will they work better towards the rear of the axle? The tie rod comes real close into contact with the springs when flexed so i think will use taller spacer. WIll post pics any comments or advice greatly appreciated! Also i have always been under the understanding that when mounting shocks the rods are always at top and the bodys on the bottom does this matter? Thanks
can you swap the mounting locations of the tie rod and drag link? it'd make life easier on your steering box w/ the force farther away from the pivot point.
also, i run the shocks on the rear of my truck upside down to keep the cylinder up higher and havent had any problems.
when we drove nix's ranger after the full width swap w/o shocks on the front it was squirly and scary. added shocks and it was perfect. you should do this and get back to us.
btw. the way we put shocks on that thing was extremely cheap and easy. found a couple bolts that were the right size to go thru the shock eyes, cut the heads off and welded the remaiing shank to the top of the spring plate, w/ the threads sticking off the side. yeah, it was kinda :rainbow:, but we'd been working 36+ hrs straight and it worked like a charm.
yes get shocks on there and most of the bump steer should go away. in that second pick what the heck is that wire going from the reciever hitch to the diff cover????
I think the bump steer might have something to do with your draglink angle...looks a little steep to me. Also, can't tell from the photos, but I think if the DL isn't parallel with the tie rod it can cause those issues?
mebbe you need a more dropped pitman
as far as I know you can run any shocks except SkyJackers upside down with no problems. Skyjackers lock up
as far as I know you can run any shocks except SkyJackers upside down with no problems. Skyjackers lock up[/QUOTE]
is this the voice of experience here eric???
no, but I was thinking about it when I installed mine ;)
you getting into town this weekend?
you can't run Rancho's upside down. They devlop like a 2" long dead band where the shock doesn't work
too late now. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
about that wire yall were talking about, thats a little cable that the plug for the winch cable attaches to, its just hangin there and looks like it hooks to the diff cover. order the shocks today 5012's up front and 5038's in the back, i cant swap positions of DL and TR because of the angle from box to arm, i got a 4 inch drop arm on there now, dont think can drop much more, will wait and see what the shocks do, hoping they will fix it, hoping!! sure they wont though with my luck, gotta move in tomorrow and have to drive damn jeep then come home next week and tie it all together and hopefully drive it back up to CS safely. Thanks for all the help guys appreciate it!
my bad, it looked like a break-away trailer brakeQuote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
edit: looked at the pics again, this wouldn't make much sense, as it's hanging off the front of your truck....that'd be cool to rig one of those to Ugly for flat-towing though! :cool:
is it still sitting high?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
edit after revisiting the pics: yes it is...are those the tires you're gonna run? I wouldn't add spacers to that tie rod...it only has to clear by 1/32 or so...springs don't arch up much that close to the perch. I hope you're running grade 8 bolts!
I would personally feel more comfortable with more bracing/weld holding that crossmember on, too.
Is there any space to put a pitman arm on with more drop. Your drag link angle looks about like mine does and I know that give me steering problems... It'll look better with no body lift or some 38s. Great job, though. :gigem:
looks good. not to only point out bad things but its constructive criticism. these are just the things i see looking through the infra-stress eyes of an engineer. id look into bending the arms up more instead of using spacers under the heims to clear the springs. spacers put the bolt into bending when the heim directly against the arm would put it into shear stress. another solution, easier no doubt, would be to put a spacer between the arm and knuckle. this wouldnt put the studs in bending since the spacer is beefy enough to allow the clamping force to carry the load. also, the inboard, front, rear spring mounts look like they may cave the frame in at some point. if the gussets extended to the top of the framerail it would alleviate a lot of the bending stress on the inside wall of the framerail. the wall thickness is not that great. i know you said you didnt like the endyoke mounted shocks. i would get rid of those sooner than later. your adding stress to an area already having copious amounts of it. plus, its cast and welding does funny things to cast. id keep an eye on it even after the shocks are gone for cracks and deformation. other than that it looks good.
oh yeah...btw....i too think you should reinforce the frame at the rear hangers.
dang that looks good.
i'd just leave the shock mounts where they're at....they aint going anywhere....and it keeps them away from rox.
definately wouldn't have rearched the springs though....i doubt you'll get flex out the rear anymore. thats a somewhat steep drag link angle....so i don't know if you'll ever completely get rid of the bumpsteer....i suggest put on some proper shocks with a steering stabilizer (spring plate to tie rod) and learn to live with it.
sounds good guys thinks for the help, not gonna be able to work on it til monday or teusday, then hope to tie it all up for now, will take into consideration yalls comments, greatly appreciated! BTW the body lift is off in those pics, and the hood sits about throat high, i dont think its outrageously as tall as it looked like it was gonna be, gonna try to get it drivable and drive it for a while and see how it acts and fix as go along. Thanks all.
what size tires are we talking about btw?
37s? 38s?
im thinkin 36's maybe 37's if i got the money.
Oh crap, I didn't realize you had 33s on it until just now. I thought they were 36s for some reason. It looks great, and 36-37s will look even better. Great job.
on 33s!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
:eek:
Doing the cage next?
Ok guys i finally finished the damn truck on friday night, had been workin on it for the past three days from like 10 to midnight, the shocks helped a tremendous amount like a day and night difference. Had to make all new shock mounts for the shocks because with the stock uppers they didnt work right so modified the stock uppers. Bled brakes and drove it friday night and went out and took some pretty rough turns in a fild and found out that the upper shock mounts werent strong enough, they got bent to hell, so pulled it back in a beefed up the mounts, seems to be working ok for now. Drove up here to CS on saturday for its maiden voyage and it drives surprisingly well, besides that it rides like a log wagon from the rear springs being rearched. It has slight bump steer but nothin thats annoying. Driveline has a little vibration right at taking off but goes away after 10 MPH, still needs to have rear drive shaft lengthened that would help alot i think. But i think shes done for a little while still minor things that need attending but nothing thats major. I think it turned out pretty good but i would never do one again. Heres the pics and thanks guys for the help.
kick ass... looks good :gigem:
looking real nice man
yeah i saw ya drivin around today, looks good bro.
Thanks alot guys i appreciate it!
Awesome work. Notice the drip from the AC condensation - wheelin' in comfort. :gigem:
awsome job man... i cant wait to see it on the trail
look damn good! good job :beer: