What size are the spindle nuts on a D30? I started taking it apart but didnt have a socket big enough, and the "parts professionals" at the Kingsville vatozone arent any help...
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What size are the spindle nuts on a D30? I started taking it apart but didnt have a socket big enough, and the "parts professionals" at the Kingsville vatozone arent any help...
tape measure? calipers?
same size as a dana 44, and I've borrowed scotts "toyota socket" before and it worked.
I've seen a hammer and fork used too.
never screwed with a 30, but on the 44 they have the 4 slots on the nuts, do these have that
No they're hex nuts. If they had slots I would have done the screwdriver technique and just bought a socket later.
do the screw driver deal anyways. ive never found a socket that will fit. the part stores have a socket that kindas fits until you need to tighten or loosen it, then it slips off.
36MM for the ones with unit bearings anyway.
36mm was the size on lynda's jeep
I've got a set of needle-nose pliers that works pretty good, but the pronged-style works on just about everything
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/cat...mm-spindle.jpg
I have three of those pictured there... both corner ones in the back and the second one to the right in the front
I ended up going the screwdriver route. Aparently the nuts are fairly soft so I just hammered a little nick into them and used the screwdriver to get em off. I got the D30 entirely torn down, all the pieces are so little and cute. Does any company make some kind of seal to keep dirt and water out of the tubes? The inner shafts were fairly rusty and there was a bunch of dirt inside the tubes. I've seen the little o-ring external seals offered for TJ's but none for CJ's.
http://www.jeepin.com/features/axleseals/index.asp
That was like 5ish years ago, don't know if the company still exists or makes those anymore. I think there's a link at the bottom of the page with some contact info.
Well I been workin on the yeep while I've been home and have made some good progress. I got the spring over most of the way done. The front axle came already setup for it and I just did the rear today. I pointed the pinion straight at the t-case, cause I plan to run a CV driveshaft. Now all I need to do in that regard is to buy and weld on some new shock tabs. According to the tags on the diff's, the rear axle I'm using has 3.73 gears and the front axle has 3.54's (or somewhere around there). No biggie, I'll just snag the gears out of the old front axle. One interesting note is the front leaf springs. The ones that came on my jeep were trashed, the front axle was sitting on the bumpstops. I bought Robbie's stock springs from him and noticed that his have 7 leaves and mine only had 5. My jeep came with a v8 and his the straight 6, whats with that? The new ones seem a little stiff, but the front clip isnt on so I'm sure thats why.
Now that I got most of the suspension done (I wanted to make sure shackle angles were ok so I left the jeep mostly intact while I did the suspension mods), I can move on to the rest of the disassembly. I started unbolting the body from the frame and holy hell is the body in sorry shape. I'm gonna have to replace about 95% of the floor, both rockers, the entire to-be tailgate area, and one rear corner. Where's the best place to get replacement body panels? I'm going to try to take the body off the frame next. This should be interesting, as I will be working by myself and my engine hoist is currently on loan to a friend. I forgot my camera cord in CS so pics will have to wait till I get back.
maybe be cheaper to find a tub thats in better shape?
Part of the goal of this project is for me to get some practice with body work for future, more valuable, projects.
ah ha, i see
jeeps seem to be pretty easy to patch up. check out kopecki's jeep. it was a rust bucket but it looks good now.
Yah that was my thinking. Mostly flat and straight body panels would make a good introduction into body work.
You must be more specific than "more valuable" than the jeep, this is way to broad of a statement. Hell, fixing up the 1985 craftsman lawn mower would be a "more valuable" project. ( :flipoff2: to all the heepers out there)Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I've seen different number of leaves in stock cj springs. I think mine had 6 front and rear. A cj5 with a 304 my brother had was 5 front and 11 rear, may not have been stock. Jeeps are pretty easy to work on because most panels are flat. The corner will probably have to be bought, but the rest should be able to be made from sheetmetal. But then jeep body parts are cheap so you may be better off buying. When I did mine nobody sold scrambler quarter panels. You can get a whole new tub for a 5 for under 2 grand I think.
Ed when I say "more valuable" I am refering to the fly rides in my sig. I was planning on just buying body panels but I figure I will have to do some sheet metal fabrication because alot of the bracing under the floors is rotted out and I've never seen that kind of body replacement panels for sale anywhere.
I just cut that bracing out. It allows the body to flex with the frame better.
Well I got the body off the frame today using a floorjack and two highlifts. It was quite an experience, and I only had one accident. I named him Robbie...haha
Since the yeep was sitting on jackstands, I started looking around for **** to rest the body on high enough so I could get the frame out from under it. My first though was sawhorses, then I discovered I dont have any. Then, as I was poking around I found 2 55 gallon drums. These will work for the back, but I still need something for the front. Well, I picked it up by hand just to see how heavy it was and it wasnt that bad, so I decided to use some old skool metal milk crates I have that I usually use to sit on while working on stuff. I had 3 so I stacked 2 and a 4x4 on one side and one with a jackstand on top of it on the other side. Perfect.
Then I used the high lifts to lift the ass end up high enough to slide the barrels under the corners of the body. After they were secured I went around to the front and raised the front with the floorjack till I could get my milkcrates under it. Then I lowered the front a little and went and started lowering the back. Both of the highlifts I am using are as old as creation itself and the pins stuck open on one of them causing the back end of the frame to crash down about 2 feet onto the dolly I had put under there for it. (Luckily the 1/4" think ugly booty fab'd gas tank skid plate did its job and protected the tank.) This caused the non-malfunctioning highlift to shoot out to the side and knock one of the barrels out from under the body. Aparently, even with all the rust the body is still stiff enough for this to not make it flex at all. Crisis averted.
So I dragged the frame out from under the body without further incident and then realized I was dreadfully short on space. So I rearanged a bunch of **** and now I have plenty of room to work.
I started taking the rear axle apart, and it is indeed 30-something spline, not 16. The shafts are impressively large, almost as big as a 14 bolt, even though I was actually able to deadlift the complete axle onto the jackstands, which I cant even think about with the 14 bolt. I got stuck on getting the carrier out though, is there some trick to it? I've heard of a gizmo called a case spreader but I didnt think I would need one. I'll get pics of the progress up when I get back to CS.
put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, so the carrier can't turn, and then turn the pinion and it will push the carrier out of the housing
dead blow hammer or 3-6 ft pry bar. i have used both effectively but id like to try creightons method. you gotta put a wrench on the pinion yoke to do it?
rachtet straps, one attaches to your wall or secured shop table, the other throught the carrier takes some work but thats how we free'd cj's front.
and almost ripped the garage down
ahh! thats dangerous! you cant use highlifts to lift things up o ratchet straps! you probably are dead already you just dont know it!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
ill be happy when you get a hi-lift to the skull, no really...
ouch - that was assish on my part i admit.....if it makes any difference to anyone, I do my best to avoid dangerous situations and try to be mindful of safety in all the crap do. John - you don't even know me, I am a pretty funny guy at times, and a hifift to the head might be enough to knock me off kilter, and then you would never get to drink beer with funny seth, only "timmay" seth
edit: if you really want a hilift to my head, that is pretty harsh considering the crime. I endanger myself only and you want me to get hurt...I can only imagine if I did something to you. But seriously, we international guys have to stick together, so no boobytrapping my hilift when I am asleep.
relax chiefQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
There must be something in the air. Alot of us, including me have been too uptight lately. I'm pretty sure everyone on the board has performed less than intelligent acts in their time.
Back to the buildup, it sounds like you're getting alot done. Sounds like it's going to be a pretty extensive restoration/buildup with all the bodywork and stuff. We need pics damnit! :gigem:
must be that time of the month... :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
oops, i was rushed
it was supposed to read, "no really... :flipoff2: "
Drained the tranny and t-case today. Both were half full of water. Super...
Here's all dem pics I done promised.
Mo.
needs more toob.
Wow, that thing looks spamtastic.
an aluminum tub and a tube frame might be a good starting point for this project...
looks like you found that thing down south :flipoff2: