you built that truck in the time it takes me to change my plug wires and rebuild an axle. I'm looking forward to this next semester clubwise. good job.
Printable View
you built that truck in the time it takes me to change my plug wires and rebuild an axle. I'm looking forward to this next semester clubwise. good job.
Damn, I cant wait to wheel with that thing
I had to pull it out the side door of my shop cause the axleless burban is blocking the front entrance. Its nestled all cozy in the backyard of my new crib.
somebody stole your full-size spare!
Actually if you look to the left of the truck bed in the last pic, you can see the 38" spare. When I made the giant run to the tire place with 3 sets of tires and wheels, I didnt have room for that last spare. There's a pic of my truck loaded down with the tires and wheels somewhere in this thread.
I found a baby picture of the truck. Here it is circa summer of '02.
theC20 thingy looks good man. you've done a good job. now polish it up and put some 20s on it
That thing looks awesome. Whats your wheelbase? and when can we expect to see it on the trail?
I think this is a TAMOR record for quickest build. It would have taken some people years just to get the axles in.
you serious?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
great job robert
Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
hey looks its the charlie truck :flipoff2:
My wheelbase is ~127" I know its fairly long for only running 36's but I intend to go as big as possible later on. Truthfull though, the reason the wheelbase is that long is because I located the rear axle so that I would not have to modify my High Angle rear CV shaft from my suburban. I wont be making Alto this weekend with it but I am hoping to be ready for the next trip. Right now all it needs to be trail ready is; Get it running (shouldnt be hard I think it just has air in the injector lines), bleed brakes, build front driveshaft and work out fan situation. I was going to run the dual electric Ford windstar fans from my suburban but I have been told they will not pull enough air to keep the 6.2 cool so I am having to work out the mech fans issue. Since the engine is 1" lower and forward of stock location, the stock fan will hit the crossmember in front of the engine so I am either going to have to run a smaller diameter flex fan, or clearance the crossmember. Thats about it.
so what are you gonna do with the suburban? If you want to sell it and its not in to many pieces, or can be put back together, my neighbor may be interested in it.
I am intending to put it back together and sell it. The only thing its missing right now is a set of 3/4 ton axles. Its all disassembled but will be a cinch to put back together.
pm me a price, general description, and just what it has so I can tell him about it
Uuhh....did I ever send that info to you? Anyway I've been playin with the truck on the weekends tryin to figure out why it wotn run and I think I've narrowed it down to there being water in the fuel. I left the fuel tank uncovered for two weeks and it got rained on so it must have had some water in there. I filled a gas can with diesel and stuck the feeder hose in it and it prety much fired right up. No I just need to get the water out of the fuel tank. Does anyone know of a local place that does radiators? I am thinking about having one custom built for this thing, cause no one makes new ones big enough for a reasonable price and I want a few things different than stock anyway. The name of the truck is now officially Pigpen. I chose this name because the truck is a pile of **** and it will be my CB handle on the trail too. Think CW McCall and the 70s...
drain the tank, add some heet to it and drain it let it all evaportae
pour lots of heet in it, or drain the tank as previously mentioned that heet stuff works good.
I used compressed air to push about 1/2 gallon of water/diesel mix out of the bottom of the tank. I also bought another Everstart battery from wally world for $30 because the Interstate that was in there was a piece of crap. It starts righ up now. I also bought some *****in little lights for $15 to use as rock lights, but one of them didnt work so I gotsta take em back tomorow.
nope, you never did. But thats allright cause I haven't talked to him since then anyway
if you want some cheap lights for rocklights, check out www.summitracing.com The part # is SUM-G6272. These are the lights I'm running on my buggy, and they are pretty nice. Metal housings, full wiring harnesses with switches and relays, all for 11 bucks.
Nicely done. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Took it to Gilmer this weekend. Come to find out a 4 hour away trip isnt the best idea for a first adventure. Problems were as follows (I may have forgoten one or two so those that were present post up anything I missed);
HUGE rear main seal leak, I lost about 1/2 a quart in half an hour of driving
Clogged PCV valve
****ed up alternator-dash gauge read 7 volts one minute and 20 the next and batteries never received a charge
No bump stops or shocks caused truck to buck violently on washboard roads and front suspension to constantly bottom out on engine crossmember
I didnt cut the hole for the t-case shifter big enough so when the t-case is in 4 low the shifter is on the body, and when everything twists it moves the shifter to front wheel drive/grinding noise
Still need to fix fenders so passenger side door cab be opened
It wouldnt engage the starter at all when we were trying to load it on the trailer
Ended up having to winch it, but my wires for the in cab winch control had gotten caught on the rag joint and wrapped around the steering shaft, causing a wicked pissah short and consequently the in cab control didnt work. The remote wouldnt work either until I disconnected the in cab control leads from the solenoids, that was kinda wierd
The tranny wouldnt shift outta first, but that was probably because the modulator isnt hooked up
I think that about sums it up. Of all things, the square tube front driveshaft performed like a champ. The looks on peoples' faces as we drove by with me at the back of the pack driving the clanky diesel that was smoking like it was on fire were the best part of the trip for me.
long maiden voyages are cool. the scouts was a 300 mile trip towing a boat overloaded with all my crap in it when i moved to s texas. maiden offroad trip was a four hour drive to gilmer. no problems.
RRDH beotch
maybe you should double check your work? :flipoff2:
it was fun to see on the trail, and when it had full 4wheel drive it crawled like a champ
get the bugs ironed out and bring that hooker to Clayton. You can show the trail klogger up!
No one will shower the trail klogger up, he doesn't even have a pipe rack!
Got the front shock mounts made today. Also, last weekend at my shop I was taking some parts off the banks turbo parts truck and discovered this little pleasant suprise.
Now all you have left to do is make the pile run :flipoff2:
Got the CB installed too.
well now replace that 6.2 w/ the turbo 6.5
Got the motor pulled today. I got the pan off and nothing appears to be in bad shape. The pan was clean as a whistle on the inside and every moves ok. I'm just gonna do the pan gasket and rear main seal. I also want to replace the waterpump with a high flow one I got from oliver, but the impeller on the high flow one hits the plate that bolts onto the back of the pump, so I'm gonna have to figure out what to do about that tomorow. Here's pics from today.
looks like you got some crap in that oil pump
Here's what I did yesterday. I found that one of my fusable links is melted, what could cause this? I will venture to guess that this is why it would not even make the starter click at gilmer when I was trying to load it on the trailer. Also, hows this bearing look? Its the rear main cap. Also, is the seal surface on the crank supposed to look like this? Thanks.
Today I noticed that the fusible link connected to the starter melted the loom around it, and I assume its not supposed to do that. Its not burned all the way through like the other one though. Could they both be fubar'd from cranking on the engine for long periods of time? I've been having to do that alot to get it started and blleding the fuel system.
Just sounds like the loom's getting too hot due to excessive cranking which in turn caused it to melt. It shouldn't do that IMO. Couldn't you just pick up two new links and go from there?
id put bearings in there since its apart. that crosshatch pushes the oil back into the seal. supposed to not leak as much. get rid of the link, put a real fuse in there.
Never took motor apart, just took pan and rear cap off to do the seal. Its all back together now and will be going back into the truck tomorow. I would just replace them with normal fuses but I have no idea what size fuse to use. I might just put two new links on and go from there.
Well then how do you know what size of fusible links to use?
No. Thats what napa counter monkeys are for.