STACEY BARS!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
...and if you try to pistol whip me I will roman candle whip your ass in the parking lot of the A&A! :gigem:
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STACEY BARS!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
...and if you try to pistol whip me I will roman candle whip your ass in the parking lot of the A&A! :gigem:
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Originally Posted by Reckless
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Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Sounds like good ol' plain southern speak to me. Of course you would have known this had you been from a 'real' southern state and not one just pretending to be....
:flipoff2:
Oh, and STACEy BARs!!!
David, you bring the piston and the man in the chicken suit, I'll bring the baby oil and the camera. What goes on in Clayton stays in Clayton.
:rainbow:???
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Originally Posted by davido
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Originally Posted by Reckless
Beat ya too it:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Texas is overrated.
"Long live the Confederacah"
http://www.geocities.com/augustium/P...CartmanLee.gif
You guys are totally :rainbow:...:flipoff2:
Anyway...
The crossmember that I removed was a tube that went through the two brackets on the frame. So I removed what was left of the tube where it was welded, cleaned up the holes, and slipped the crossmember back in to the brackets. I'll weld this in at the same time I tack the bumper in place. I also flipped it around, since with the new wheelbase the upper shock mounts are in the right place to mount the lower shock mounts on the front of the axle. I probably won't use the stock upper mounts though, I'll put some new mounts in the center of the crossmember.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2238.jpg
Let the obligatory mock-ups begin...:D
This is the spring at 105" center pin to pin. I used a high tech spring mock-up system to hang the spring in its approximate position.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2236.jpg
Here's where the fuel cell will be. I'll have to wait till I get a drivetrain in to see how high it will need to be for driveshaft clearance. I want to keep it as low as possible for COG and so that I can run a regular filler neck on the cell.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2239.jpg
Here's a little bed mock-up. I threw the LUV bedside up to see if I could get an idea what it would look like...but it's about 41" too long.:P From the back of the cab to the back of the bumper is about 36.5".
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2240.jpg
I through the sides of the FJ body I cut out just for fun. This gives a little better idea of how it may look.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2243.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2244.jpg
looks good
this is gonna look cool
Got LUV? :)
Tacked the two ends of the bed together. My thought was to try without the wheel well first, then if I still want it I can add it in there.
I'm not sure about if the wheel well will look better or not. If I put the wheel well in I'll have to put in a fill panel behind it anyway to cover the frame. I chopped a wheel well onto one of the pics...thoughts?
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2249.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2247.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../DSCN2247b.jpg
you should dove it from the edge of the bulkhead to the width you have it at the rear now. sorta like jimmys scout.
I like it with out the wheel well, if it's going to be that far inboard anyways, do you really need it.
It's a little late for the dovetail now. I think dovetails look good, but I was looking at doing something a little different anyway.
I didn't really measure, so the tire may actually sit in a little closer to the body. Still, the wheel well would be more for looks than function because it would only be about 1-2" deep.
i really have no idea what you are doing to this poor thing.:confused2
Preparing it for the scrap yard, but making it look like I'm doing something to it so I don't look like a quitter.;)
boatside?
I'll probably just stick with sliders for now. The angle iron ones I had before worked pretty well, I'll just need to extend them back and around the corner of the tub.
no I mean for the bedsides. Might look cool?
That's possible...I was planning on trimming the bottom even or just below the frame (like the picture), but I could angle the cut upward and cover the gap with sheetmetal to look like a boatside.
Check out the newest issue of Crawl, there is a 'cruiser in there I think you would nut over.
Why is it too late to dovetail it?
I guess it's not too late... though everything is already cut too short to bring the bedsides in at an angle.
Yeah, dovetail it, be like the rest of the sheeple out there. :rolleyes:
Yall leave the man alone, atleast he is workin on it. :flipoff2:
I'm not messing with him, I was just curious. Dovetailing it would be cool, but I think I see what you're trying to do with the bed being so narrow. Could you integrate some floating trailer fenders? Could end up ghetto, but would definitely be unique...
I think that beside looks funny to me because it's curvyness doesn't reall match the rest of the look. I was trying to think of a bed that would be slightly more fitting to the whole truck theme and I thought maybe a M715-ish bed would look pretty cool on there. Wouldn't be too hard to build, or make narrow, and you could do something more like a half a trailer fender instead of the non-lipped arch of a M715. Just kind of thinking out loud.
I did think about some sort of fenders like that....kind of a stepside look. But I haven't seen any out there that would look right.Quote:
Originally Posted by bbrurris
I have seen a build where a guy used real FJ45 bedsides for his... to me it looks like too much flat area without the wheel well, and a bit boxy looking. I think bedsides like on the M715 would come out similar. The thing is the front clip is a lot more curvy than the tub, then the bed may look too boxy in comparison. I think once this thing is a little more together these bedsides will look a little less out of place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
so is that what you are doing? cause that isnt half as ghetto as what i thought you had in mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I say narrow and flat, no wheel wells, more old school like dees.
http://img307.imageshack.us/img307/6323/shine3nn.jpg
Now that you posted that picture it makes a lot more sense now. Please proceed with your current plans, I will await a finished project patiently.
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Originally Posted by BMFScout
hmmm...wonder if there is a speed record for FJ40s?:)
I like the m715 idea. you could do a roll at the top (like old p/u model T) and make it a little bigger and that would give you the fender effect...is that what you were saying fred or were you actually talking about a 1/4" thick arched fender lip like they already have?
For the first time in years, something on this rig has actually been put together.:gigem:
Got the rear crossmember welded in tonight.
measure, measure, measure, weld, weld, measure, weld, weld, measure, check level, weld, weld, weld, weld, weld, weld...
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2255.jpg
those stacey bars sure come in handy!
That they do!:D
Got the rear bumper built. I'll leave the ends unfinished until cage time...I'm thinking the rear tubes of the cage will be outside the fenders to protect the tail-lights and will mount to the bumper ends.
The holes on either side of the receiver are for hitch pin clearance. I'll put in a half of a square tube on either side to close it back up behind the pin hole.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2258.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2261.jpg
You probably could have just redriled the reciever tube? All of the hitch inserts I've got have atleast 8" between the pin hole and the drop section.
I looked at all the drop hitches at Northern Tool, and my Warn D-ring mount at home, and there was just not any room to move the hole back. Any more and the D-ring would interfere with the bumper.
I did a lot of searching to what other people have done, but couldn't come up with anything conclusive as to what needed to be done. It had just enough length that if I flush mounted the outside face it would have worked, but I like the look better when it sticks out a bit.
Get a piece of pipe and cut it in half length wise instead of the square tubing. It would be mo' peemp.
Looks good :gigem: