you're thinking of 10 bolt or dana 44 armsQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
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you're thinking of 10 bolt or dana 44 armsQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
isn't the principle the same?
i'm not sure we're talking about the same thing here
yota hi-steer arms have 4 tapered holes in them. The studs go through these holes, a split cone washer is dropped onto the stud and fits the taper in the hole, and a nut is tightened onto the stud and down onto the cone washer, pushing the arm down and tightening the cone washer around the stud. The taper and the ability of the washer to compress are important to keeping the assembly together. Very resistant to loosening from vibration.
thats like a dana 44 or a to bolt...Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
dana 60's just have a stud with a tapered stud, like a lug nut, that tightens the arm down.
the stud is also smaller than 44's or 10 bolt's
1/2-20... find me some quality threaded rod!Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
funk all that noise this is what you need:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=387955
I wonder about that welderbuilt guy, builds those bad ass knuckles but his own rig is all pop toob and weld fitings
yes but he is such a badass welder that its the strongest way ever, only if done by him, because he's such a badass welder
I think that's what happens when your hobby becomes your job. Working on your rig stops being fun
Talky talky no more talky. More pictures.
currently making the double steering arm... Waiting for the mill to make a 15" long pass. Hopefully I'll get all the holes drilled an bored tonight and then next tues make the final shape. I'll post pics when I get home.
pics... couldn't remember what degree the kingpin is offset. I'll finish the rest up tues hopefully
pimp
nice toes dougie
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I had a dream about wheeling the blazer last night. I figure it must be a sign to work on it more.
I think its 10 degrees. Hey is that ram gonna work for yeah
yeah i thought it was 10 degree's, verified it on the knuckle. Not sure if the ram is going to work yet, when I get the axle under there I'll know for sure. Getting better gas mileage now that it's out of the truck? :flipoff2:
Almost got the double arm done. I precision ground the large radii on the two ends with the angle grinder. Not worth it at this point to waste time on that.
Helped garret start tapping his tierod. I'm too chicken to turn the lathe on and actually "power tap" it, so it's just manual cranking on it, so progress is slow.
I have all of tommorow afternoon off, so I should finish both arms tommorow hopefully.
ive got some grinders at the wind tunnel that'll make a great finish on the end of that if you wanna.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
i wouldnt turn the lathe on either, not worth it.
So I'm getting deeper involved and further behind!
Cooper, Eric, and I went to the junkyard where I jooed the mexican down from $60 to $35. I got a pair of 52" springs, a 2wd steering box, and ford van pitman arm.
The springs are for the front and will move the axle forward, they should also flex better.
The steering box and pitman arm are for the crossover steering. It doesn't have as much drop as I have read or I got the wrong one. It might work though.
Good find. What yard did ya'll go to. Gordon's? I got jewed there... :confused2
Less than a month, better get crackin! :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
yeah, its crunch time (oh ****, I better get to work on my own ****, or at least wash the dirt off from gilmer :D )
definately crunch time... You know I'm serious when I start making lists of what and when I need to do :flipoff2:
Goals for tommorow morning:
- take first 15mg of adderall
- press studs out of rotors
- clean bearing hubs
- figure out how many studs need replacing
- cut spring caps for upper kingpin
- weld caps on arms
- machine lower kingpins
- sandblast a few items
Afterclass:
- take second 15mg of adderall :laughing:
- pickup new rotors and lug studs from parts store
- press in lug studs
- drive home
At home:
- finish designing front hangers
- drive to maching shop drill lots of holes and cut out brackets
- weld up front mounts reinstall bumper
- paint various items (remaining 60 parts, leaf spring packs ) in between
Hopefully I get all that accomplished tommorow...
Remaining:
- weld carrier/ install
- install pinion
- change all axle seals
- install/assemble kingpins, steering arms, knuckles
- install spindles
- pack bearings
- install hub/rotor assembly
- install lockout hubs
- install brakes
- bleed brakes
- install leaf packs
- figure out if rear hanger needs to be moved;
if x=0 then skip making shackles;
else make new shackles;
end;
- swap sector shafts
- drill and tap box
- install 2wd pitman arm
- measure for tierod/pitman arm
- buy pipe
- tap pipe
- mount ram
- ram tap up my ass :gigem:
- get 38.5's mounted
- sawsall the **** out of fender where necassary
- driveshaft?!?
- drop soap in shower
You're gonna need to make new shackles regardless of moving the rear hanger.
you have done more in less time without adderall
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
nerd.
spring hangers working out allright so far? :gigem:
Enough with waiting for it to warm up... I'll be working all day today on the blazer. Substituting beer with coffee.
Started at 7:30 this morning. I think I'm more anal than David Oliver with the taping!
If anyone decides to stop over, I'll probably have the garage closed, so don't be dettered by that. Also, I'll probalby make a walmart run to get some carb cleaner so I can start cleaning bearings, etc...
Wow, learned something new tonight...
Thought i didn't label the bearing caps when I took it apart several years ago. So I went to pirate and started searching... Nothing was in the Dana 60 bible about it. So I starte searching the conventional way. On each cap there is a letter stamped either horizontal or vertical, it's stamped the same way on the housing where the gasket lays.
So the letter A was stamped on mine... I'll take picture and post tonight, maybe it will help someone else.
In the end, I did label them, but I had the races stuck on the caps and it was hiding. However, I didn't remember which way it went, writing in or out.
that is how my dana44 was... still marked it when i took it apart just cause i didnt know at first
Every axle I've taken apart has had the caps marked in some way that made them obvious as to where they go.
but mine used a D and opposite way D
Ok I'm dumb, eat my ass :flipoff2:
I'm thinking someone has redone the axle seals at one point in time, unless orange RTV is factory. When I took the carrier out I thought it was odd it didn't have any shims, and I really hadn't thought about it till I was putting it back together. However, the carrier moves horizontally. I don't have a dial indicator here, but using a pair of calipers, it appears to move .015". I really don't have time for this ****! Any suggestions?
i have a dial indicator you can borrow
The carrier shims are behind the carrier bearings. Most of my axles' carriers have been loose enough to be removed easily, but I never had one worn enough to move sideways.
Look like you've got a few choices.
1. Reset the grears. Lots of fun pressing bearings on and off.
2. Put shims in the wrong spots to make it tighter.
3. Say fawk it, it's made it this far, should make another 20 years.
we've got a couple at work, but thanks for the offerQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
I think I'm going to bring some shim stock home from work and mess with it a little. I'll do it right after the clayton trip. Hopefully it will be ok
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I have heard you should leave the carrier in the housing or things like that happen. Did the carrier just slide in? I have to beat mine in with a 2x4 and good size hammer. Thats how I set my preload. :gigem:
that crappy orange rtv job is factory, that's how every front 60 i've seen is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs