Kickass! Good times indeed!Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsu
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Kickass! Good times indeed!Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsu
fawk. Maybe I should try to rig up some kinda roof and hood before the trip. Has it ever actually snowed during a trip up there?Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsu
I Dont Know But You Can Definatly Count On It Raining Cats And Dogs For Sure...
doug it is jsut butt welded to the cylinder, he has a new style thatt threads in and also is welded on that i am gonna upgrade to after clayton.
Steve, when was the last time you were in clayton?Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
Dam that's some cheap ****. Can't even thread the end of a rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
You can weld the eye on. But 6011 is not what to use. Or maybe with as cheaply built as his cylinders are they have 1018 shafts or such and it'll work. At least use 7018. And protect the rod from weld spatter that will eat seals.
im not welding the rod(the part that moves in and out) kopecki, it is the stud on the back of the ram.
Oh. Well then weld.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
ummm...good question...i dont know, but the three or four times ive been there it has been nice outside..then all of a sudden it will start pouring and then nice again.
why do you ask?
I would bevel the end all of the way around to get deep penetration and then weld w/ a 7018 or higher
are you going to write a short story about it? turn caps lock offQuote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
lww K :flipoff2:
small tarp?Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
HUHHUH...i wuz thinkun of writin one...HUHHUH
i forget sometimes that my CAPSLOCK is on. all the work i do here requires caps lock...
I was actually thinking this may be the answer. I was gonna hit the board first, then head over to the harbor frieght site and see what they had that might work.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
Your hood line is pretty unobstructed except for the crossover for the shock towers, why not pick up some sheet steel or aluminum and make one. Just cut a slot for the crossover, weld some tabs for hood pins or Dzus on the cage, and voila! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
actually, when I put in the crossover bar, I made it removable so it would be easier to install a hood and work on the engine, so I can get it out of the way. The biggest 2 problems are the stainless steel lines that stick up for the propane system, and that ugly ass master cylinder I have. Both will require somewhat wierd cuts to make a hood fit. I actually went out there and measure everuthing when I got home a few minutes ago, and I'm thinking of just getting someone to cut me a few pieces of steel sheet to match. The roof should be relatively easy, the hood is gonna take some work. What thickness would every suggest for this? I want to keep it as light as possible, but it needs to be thick enough that it doesn't flex or bow (it has to cover around a 2 foot span unsupported). I hope I can find the time to get this done next week
oh yeah, who here in town will cut the metal to match what I need? I've heard custom fabricators is good, but kinda expensive. Mack bolt and steel will only sell me a full sheet (which I don't want to mess with since time is short) and bryan iron and metal only has 1/8 sheet
How big is our adopt-a-highway sign out on 6?
:D
I would say thicker aluminium would be pimp, that or get someone to roll some beads in thinner steel. Then it will support itself.
I would like aluminum as well for the wieght saving, but I know it'll cost a lot more. As for rolling beads, definetely not enough time and money.
how about rolling papers? wtf?!
If you have to get the whole sheet I bet you could take it over to Eaker Performance and have Jonothan cut it with the plasma cutter. I don't think he would charge that much to do it if he has the time.
Lance @ CAC has a plasma too.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
me too
Jesus three!Quote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
Well due to getting a late start today and pulling an all nighter, I didn't get to beaumont today. I didn't think it was a good idea to leave a 6:30 after no sleep. So, behind schedule once again.
Anyone want to take a ride to beaumont this weekend? You can see the kings castle in person!
i could maby go one day after 1
Hello? 1982 called, they want their sign back...
Need to get my truck inspected... who is the cheapest in town... quicker sticker?
inspections are the same price everywhere you go i believe.
its state mandated priceQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
okie dokie... you think he is open today
Have we contacted Mike Green and "Frielands" to make sure we can get on those properties this weekend? I am not sure if they have added a gate to Mikes place yet, but they might have. Frielands already has a gate with a lock on it...
Got the crossmember all done tonight, but ran into a snag while getting ready to put in on the trailer - the steering hits the header now that the engine is lower. We are going to cut out some of the unnecessary crap (like bushings) tomorrow night and see if we can make it work.
tramslation: found more booty fab to cut off the rig. Should be good to go tomorrow.
I am confused, how will cutting out bushings help the clearence problem between the steering and the header? Or when you say steering, are you talking about the shaft going between the steering box and the steering wheel?
I circled it from my earlier motor mount pic. This flange sandwiches a bushing that reduced road vibration (essentially vestigial in my swamper clad rig). It also has some nuts in there as bootyfab washers from a body lift at some point (WOW). You can't really tell from this pic, but the outer edges of this flange & the bolts hit the header every time I turn the wheel. In fact, I can't even turn the wheel more than a quarter turn. The plan, as I understand it, is to remove the bushing & nut and bolt them directly together. Then fill the gap by resheathing the tube. Hopefully this is the only conflict we missed when we lowered & moved back the motor...
rag joint hits the header since we lowered the motor. Remove rag joint, extend steering shaft and we're set.
dont you need the rag joint to help with binding issues?
oh and chris, cut it out with the big words
i think you just made up vestigial
no it's a word. Those 2 things hanging below your pecker--vestigial :flipoff2:
rag joint just absorbs vibes. There's a ujoint to deal with binding
Like eric said he has a u-joint just in front of it. But in some cases you're right.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman