fixed some stuff tonight
fixed the ram mount on the tie rod, cut off the **** up and welded on tabs like i should have the first time
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fixed some stuff tonight
fixed the ram mount on the tie rod, cut off the **** up and welded on tabs like i should have the first time
also fixed the leaking transmission.
it had a small dent in it, probably back from when i landed on a rock in clayton 06' (you can see it in the picture)
the pan was bent on the front corner by the dip stick, caused by the dent.
straightened out the lip on the pan
replaced the filter, added a drain plug and a new seal with some "real" gasket maker... keep this stuff off your hands
i used it just to stick the seal to the pan, then used regular rtv on top for security.
Good luck ever getting that stuff off.
its ok, that was the pointQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
fixed the other side of the ram mount tonight.
not completely happy with it.... welding blind does not always turn out the way you want it to... it will work though, and next time i pull the axle out from under the jeep i can clean it all up.
tell the ***** to leak now!!
also rewired all the lights, brake lights, horn, cab lights, etc, etc.
only had headlights in clayton
some how the wire that goes through the fire wall to the horn "magically" changed location to a wire that had been cut for about 6 years... that was fun to track down
.
i am going to re-run my "past-last-minute-to-clayton" rear break line job and im ready for TCC next weekend :beer:
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1146906402.html
set of half doors
called the other guy at PSC, he put spacers in both sides of the ram and upgraded my heims... just paid shipping.
put in the JB converisons 4:1 LoMax 300, 32 spline front and rear output shafts and the clocking kit with new input shaft. also put in their twin stick ball and spring kit, they are basically stiffer springs that keep it from popping out of gear.
if anybody else gets this kit, their stuff is really nice, but they are based out of Louisiana and their instructions reflect that. it took way longer to do than it should have. we ended up just using an exploded view of the t-case to do it.
had to do some last minute custom exhaust work to get the t-case in with the clocking kit. the exhaust shop ran the exhaust right next to the t-case then it wrapped around the back to miss the anti-wrap bar. (will get picks later)
got all the stuff to do the twin stick, but ran out of time, so it will have to do without for colorado.
also threw in some rock lights, wired up my tach, adjusted brakes, added a cb and a cd player / speakers. replaced a motor mount that was cracked in half... i think it had been like that for awhile, its basically a big rubber pad and in split horizontally, so it would anly move if the motor was torqued over.
also got the jeep inspected and the title put in my name.
finished
thanks to scott for letting me use his press and lending a hand... cj too
finally went out and pulled the front yoke off from the june colorado trip (3 months later = summer was hot)
pretty good break :gigem:
bad casting? i should ask our metallurgy guys to analyze it :gigem:
that's hairy!
Mine looked the same...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown002.jpg
I think bad castings have bubbles or inclusions visible in the break. That one just broke :D
note to self:
read all information closely.
when i bought the kit for the front output kit it says clearly
Available Options:
* 1350 non-CV Yoke
(which is basically a custom made yoke that has the same splines and u-joint as a 205 but it will fit into a 1.5" bearing)
so i assumed the 1310 it came with was also a non-CV
wrong
fine print says it comes with the 1310
**1310 CV
(also a custom piece)
i knew it looked like a cv yoke but the u-bolts bolted direct to it and it seemed to function properly.
so i just ordered their custom 1350 yoke which was only $60
a stock 205 yoke is like $105 then you have to machine the thing down
Guess I need to order that too. If you need, I do have a 1310 non-cv yoke, I won't be swapping the cases until next year.
i went ahead and just ordered one. I called and they had one in stock.
didnt you say your case does not have the upgraded output shafts? or did it not have the 4:1?
the yokes i have are 32 spline
It's got the shafts, not the 4:1.
finally got around to putting on the new yoke and clocked the t-case
had to cut out the floor and chop out some other pieces with the plasma to get it all the way flat
you can see the t-case now the low point is my transmission pan... eventually swapping it out so i will just deal with it
... also made some jack stack "jacks" :gigem::beer:
picked up some new u-joints
you might have heard of them before
talked to the guys and Houston Drive Train and they said they do not even sale spicer joints anymore unless people ask for them.
they are called Neapco. they use the same number as a spicer with like a letter in front of it.
comparison
neapco left, spicer right
you can see the seal on it (the reason they do not sell the spicers now)
he said the seals do not fail, keep out water and the joints are just as strong
$40 for 2 of them
what do you guys think about this for a crossmember??
I don't think you have enough room to do that
the bolt hole in the bushing might end up oval shaped
When Paul and Blake worked at CarQuest in Corpus some Neapco rep made rounds through all the parts stores and showed them the comparison between their products and Spicer, it apparently made a really good impression on them.
Neapco isnt exactly new in the auto industry. They made the first Chevy 4wd conversions in the 50's. Cool story, I know.
that was Napco.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Sum***** you're right!
FML!
my grandparents live in the town where neapco makes that stuff. Cool story, I know.
I also exclusively ran Neapco joints on the camaro. I may have messed up 4 sets of gears in the mighty 10 bolt, but only one joint withstood the abuse. Neapco.
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