ive got a sye that you can have for cheap if you need one
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ive got a sye that you can have for cheap if you need one
is it the hack and tap or is it the shaft and all for the sye
it is the shaft, output housing and yoke
well i figured out why it had a rattle/knock, it turns out that the bolts that i had for the torque converter were too long and bottoming out and letting the flex plate move, so i added some lock washers and it cured the problem, but i got my brother to pick me a set of factory ones from jeep, so they are on the way to me
i also cut away the rear quarter panel, installed the grill, installed a tranny cooler (plate style), put the cowl back on and wipers on
just need to weld rear still, finish trimming rear fenders, make bumpers f/r, sliders, and adjust the front axle to get it centered all the way
i got the sliders/frame stiffener made and bolted on, made out 2" x 1/4" wall square tube the frame stiffener is made out of 3" angle 1/4" wall
rear bumper made and put on, made out of 6" c-channel with 2 1/2" sq tube 1/4" wall that wrap around the side towards the fender wells
and trimmed rear fenders and spot welded them back together
things left before clayton: make front bumper, weld rear, and adjust track bar and it should be ready
i have pics, but are still on camera, i will post them up later
here are a few pics of the progress
time to go finish this thing up
Nice!
clean work, me likey. :gigem:
looks good, but why blue? was that paint left over from the Robbie's Papa Smerf axle?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickas
:laughing:
important observation
blue, why not
it dont need no muffler
got the front bumper done today, just leaves weld rear, make battery tie down, and adjust track bar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
don't you have tests or something???
yes thats why i have had less than 6 hours of sleep in the last two nights and am running on adderal and 5 hour energy shots. **** you :mad: :flipoff2:
today i changed the flexplate bolts back to the factory ones, welded the rear, and tried to adjust the front track bar over but couldn't
ah crap, is that a Dana35C?
I think that I've witnessed at least four break in Clayton, and 6 or 7 in my years of wheeling. Always an interesting process of getting off the trail...
I went back and read the thread... That should make it better getting off the trail :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
See the "Good Deals" thread if you're interested in a winch bumper.
the passanger side motor mount is a ***** on this thing, i didnt know that you had to take the oil filter adapter housing off in order to get the bolt out, i wish i knew this before so i could have got the orings for it first.
things done so far for this clayton trip
install new motor mounts
wired up CB
things still need to be done
replace trans mount
repair/replace transmission lines
remove trans crossmember lowering kit
get orings for oil filter adapter and reinstall
install locker if i get it (maybe in the parking lot of the A&A)
I need an XJ driver seat. Do you have a spare?
lemme check with my brother to see if the wants the other set of seats out of the parts one
i'm fixing to bump up to some 33"s as the 32"s are getting pretty ugly now
i'm going to need a little more lift on there what would be the best about an 1.5"-2" spacer in the front and shackles in the rear, this would put me at about 5" of lift total on there
would i need to run a SYE with that amount of lift?
For TJs its anything over 4" needs an SYE. Not sure about XJs..
XJ's longer and you don't drive it on the highway much. Don't worry about it.
i was mainly worried about the dshaft falling out under full droop, i guess i will try it without it first and see what happens
You will need an SYE. I'm guessing you have allready dropped your TC? I am to lazy to look.
leave the Slip yoke, just make your driveshaft a little longer, or get an RE hack and tap
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/JeepPa...px?part=RE1801
how ugly are the BFG's? i might need 'em.
As some of you may have seen this weekend, i added 2" spacers to the front and 2" shackles to the rear and an adjustable track bar, and the 33" BFG muds from my silver truck
all of that helped tremendously
all was going good until the first obstacle, when i folded my tie rod into a nice v shape, i have another good one at home that i am going to sleeve it, or maybe get one of those fancy alumaflex ones that a couple of the guys were running out there
i toasted my tcase late in the day going up a ledge, i still had power going to the front wheels but not the rear, i am thinking that it is the main shaft, may be as easy as ordering a complete sye kit and installing it to get it going again
also went to start it yesterday, it started for a second and then died, i can hear the fuel pump prime but when you depress the schrader valve, it barely trickles out, so this would be a good time to do a fuel tank relcation
nice - at least you made it to the first obstacle:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
here is a pic of the jeep with the new stuff on it
here is one with the bent tie rod on the jeep
I talked to my brother, he pulled it partially apart tonight, he said that the slip yoke was a b!tch to remove, and the main shaft sheared in half which also took out the oil pump in the tcase
i think there is one for sale on texas 4x4 and i know the guy in the club with the zj and 9" has a few extra in his storage bldg
Higgs tie rod did that in AZ on his LJ. We just put a bottle jack underneath it and it straightened out nicely
Thats a good story grandpa, tell it again:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
bottle jack + a few minutes = good as new.
here are a few pics of the carnage in the tcase
Oh Snap! :flipoff2:
x2 on the 300
Odd that you could break that before the d35 you have in the back. I'd just find another one cheap and swap it in. It probably won't happen again.
i was kind of thinking that since the crawl box section was still good, was to do a doubler kit in the jeep using the front half of the existing case and finding a d300 to mate to it, and then also doing a simple mod to the trans where it uses 3 switches to manually shift the trans into any gear you wanted it to
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