lockrites are ok in the front but don't hay to be pretty small to drop into a toyota third?
too bad can't change it now but when it breaks it will end up welded together like ed's
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lockrites are ok in the front but don't hay to be pretty small to drop into a toyota third?
too bad can't change it now but when it breaks it will end up welded together like ed's
WTF?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I think lockrites have the honor of being one of a very few parts that Busa has flogged on and been able to sell in working condition (to me!). And he's broken a full detroit!
So right now everyone has varying opinions, but the key is people think lockrites = bad news bears. Well I will run smaller tires for now. When I switch everything to Longs in a year I will switch to ARB's as well.
Probably because they slip Erik. Just like, it's hard to break axles running all terrains. Same idea. Chances are it will be fine. I ran one in my IFS front end, it always out lasted the shaft outters.
when did lockrite's start slipping?Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
Chris you're not running any kind of longs? Don't put that axle together without some sort of upgraded axles in it. I might be able to hook you up
Not yet, I was just going to look at the axles and re-pack the birf's anyways and since I am only running 34x10.5's for a couple of months figured I would find out just how weak the stock shafts were before I throw myself into debt running Long's immediately.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
If you got a connection or know someone who has them for sale I would be very interested, just wasn't going to drop the money just yet since I am building this thing from stock and doing it pretty quickly.
Add me to the list... I broke the one I had in my 8.8", sheared a pin and the teeth wouldn't engage. I ended up welding it in the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
viva la Jabnasty!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
I've seen a few of these, and if you look at the pin there is usually a crack that has the plating in it meaning it was defective to begin with. I usually see the cross pin for sale on the same page as drop in lockers, there is probably a reason for that.
ARB's or drop in's, nothing else exists in my book :gigem:
The only lockright I've broken still somewhat worked even though it made some interesting popping noises. As Jimmy stated, Lurch is a bit of a mechanical miracle, but still, even with one pin in tact, it still worked enough to wheel the rest of the day on.
http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...ght#post132515
I've had a lockright in the front for 6 or 7 years without a problem. I do know that most cruiser guys that put one in the rear usually brake it pretty quick though.
As for upgrading your stock birfs, if you are going to be running smaller tires, don't worry about it till you break one. Just pay attention and don't get stupid with the wheels cranked and in reverse.
So it has been a while since I got to update this thread. Yesterday we dropped the engine and tranny in the truck and it fired up after a lot of persuasion. Was a good 9 hours in the driveway but it was good progress that hasn't been made yet. Still don't have the timing perfect so it isn't idling right but I plan on getting that wrapped up in the next two weeks.
On a brighter note getting 170 PSI on the number 1 cylinder was kinda cool :gigem:
The beast runs and drives!
She still looks bone stock but the ***** is idling and loud as hell! :gigem:
I drove her home Saturday night, fixed the idle problem with a new TPS Sensor. The 5.29's and LockRites make it fun to drive, especially when you are going 60 and the speedo reads 85... The Exhaust that I bought in pieces from Summit blows donkey balls. One of my exhaust manifold bolt holes is stripped worse than sh!t and there is no bolt making one hell of a leak. The connection pipe from the headers to the Cat is wrong and making the Cat hang down lower than the frame and sitting about two inches to the rear of what it should. This made for some interesting innovation of attaching the old muffler to the cat but with enough beer and bailing wire I have an exhaust system! :gigem:
The project is officially being put on hold until after I get married in May. I realized I needed to stop working on trucks and start holding the fiances hand until the big day. In May I plan on installing lift and steering and tires and repainting her Dune Beige. Then I am wheeling the *****!
I predict you will sell this within 2 months, 7 days of your funeral...er uh wedding.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
Some exhaust advice:
If your header didn't come with a gasket, order one from Thorley, they're beefy and way cheaper than the $70 dealer one.
Helicoil all the studs when you repair the one
Put some sort of flex in the exhaust directly behind the header. Your muffler/cat will hit rocks and it will cause header leaks if you don't
Haha, funny!Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Nope. She is all for this cause it means she gets to wheel the FJC....:(
Advice all noted and will be done. Thank you sir! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
no prob, I'll try and remember to take a pic this weekend of how my exhaust is currently set up, complete with Clarke's kickass rebar hanger!
damn i forgot about that!
overdue pics
i bough ta $20 manifold gasket from napa. been on there for 6 months w/ a rusty no name used muffler, no leaks so far.
i didnt see much of an improvement, from the stock manifold/down pipe/IH muffler to the header, gutted cat, no name muffler.
what header, and what size pipe?
i have no idea. never cared to measure. it came off a hoped up 22r(if thats possibe) that melted a piston.
Ok time to update this thread a bit, did some cosmetic work this weekend:
-Removed the Top
-Installed driver side window regulator
-Installed new window felt and door panels
-Replaced gauges with SR5 Gauges for battery volt gauge thingy and Tach (though it doesn't work, think i am missing a fuse somewhere)
-Took apart the old speedo and odometer and started rolling it back but took WAY too much work.
-Painted and installed Marlin Crawler Rear bumper
-Took off the shatty chrome excuse for a bumper, roughed it up and shot it with black rustoleum and stuck it back on there.
All in all made for a fun Saturday. Next Saturday it is off to the Exhaust shop to fix the header bolt hole and weld me up some new pipe to put on the new muffler.
Got a big wrench a thon with my local club in August where we plan on taking two days and re-doing all the suspension and installing hy-steer and am IFS steering box.
After that I weld up the sliders and we be wheeling by september. :D
On a side note this project has officially been named Project WOFTAM Jr.
Oh and WOFTAM = Waste of F*cking Time and Money
Where'd you get the new panels for the doors?
Didn't get new ones, just had the old ones off for the past year :) Just cleaned them up with soap and water and installed new felt and new window knob thingies. All the handles can be had from TRDParts4u.com, actually I just bought an FJ40 hood from them because Toyota still makes 40 hoods (whodathunkit?) so they may have complete door panels.
I also installed a new toyota emblem :D
Probably more than I want to spend on them. I've got some black aluminum diamond plate I was planning on using, but I'd rather have the stock panels and mine are a little beat up.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
The still make 40s, don't they? Just can't get them here.
Bet the muffler shop wants to pull your head to fix that stud. Get a reamer and helicoil and do it yourself.
I want a picture of that new emblem when you smash it. :flipoff2:
No they stopped making the 40 for South America a couple of years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
I don't have a problem doing the Helicoil myself but as long as I have it at the shop I was going to have them do it, let's see what they want as far as money.
The Emblem is just a sticker TOYOTA on the right side of the grill. All the parts installed were included when I bought the truck it just took me 10 months to get them on. :D