I agree and you shouldn't need very thick plate either i would go with solid 1/8 or maybe 3/16Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
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I agree and you shouldn't need very thick plate either i would go with solid 1/8 or maybe 3/16Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
The plan is for 2" .25 wall dom, but would 1.75" .25 wall be good enough? It would be about 11 pounds lighter, cost less and dowling already has a 1.75" die for the bender.
I think 1.75" .250 wall would be fine, as long as you plated or added tubes between the arms. Go look at what Tum Tum's stock F250 radius arms are made of, I doubt it is 0.250" thick.
The max wall thickness that the bender calls for is ~.13, not sure if it is up for the .25 wall.
Or the person bending it for that matter.
Weren't you having trouble bending the .120 HREW last night???
No, your shop floor was dirty, after I swept I had no problem
The ttb arm changes 21 degrees at 16" of wheel travel so the ballistic joint with 34 degrees of movement will work fine. Question is, if I go with 1.75" .25 wall tube that limits me to 1" threaded shank on the joint. Is this enough strength? I guess another option is to get the tube threaded to run a larger thread size if need be. Also getting some materials to start working on some sort of swingset steering. Might post up some drawings when I finish them.
Or a heim will work and a 1 inch shank is more than enough.
what about welding the joint housing to the tube?
I would weld the joint housing to the tube, you don't need the adjustability unless you don't build the arms the same or weld the mounts on square. Much stronger as well
Back to steering, Travis got me some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for steering. I want to do something real similar to the YJ and Corey 2011 KOH buggy steering setup. It uses 2 idler arms with a relay rod between them and the tie rods mount the same place as the beam does so toe in and bump steer are pretty much gone. Here's some pictures of what he did, but I want to do a single shear setup, no hydro, and strait tie rods.
Also might be ordering cut and turned beams from threat motorsports next week if I can gather some cash. I emailed solo motorsports about their price, but I'm really liking how threat motorsports welds in a new billet piece for the lower balljoint instead of moving the stock one and plating it in.
That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.
And expensive....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
All will be covered by the skid plate in the front bumper. It has to be complicated to get rid of bumpsteer and toe in. Shouldn't cost too much on top of the tube I bought, just another stock pitman arm, a couple of heims and some plateQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Does anybody use heims on their steering? I need something with more articulation than the 16 degrees from a regular TRE.