Now? None.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
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Now? None.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
just stop being a ***** and knock em out!
Too late.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
***, you beat me to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Lose the attitude, this isnt pirate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrob11
You're an idiot. :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I am rethinking the drive flanges. I have driven on the street with the hubs locked, but in 2wd and thought it was fine. Do i risk damaging anything running a locked/locked front end in 2wd maybe 40-50mph down the road? I think Warn is the only 35 spline option, but I seem to tear up a set of them once every 4-5 runs.
Isn't there an easily removable drive slug option? I think Ed was talking about it on the boards not that long ago. Just pop them out before you drive on the street.
There are 2-3 companies making 35 SPL hubs, teraflex and warn are the two off the top of my head. Drive slugs will drive shady on the highway, but if you get higher end ones the slug can be removed and the cap reinstalled to keep dirt and crap out. I bought poly performance 35 spline slugs.
the skulls and crossbones, $245, ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Yeah
ATOR has a bad rep. I had a set, and they did me ok. I had to get another set when parts came up missing. I don't remember where the current set came from. Longfield sells some now I believe.
What locker do you have in the front? An allen wrench and mini flathead screwdriver can have a flange out in just a couple of minutes unless the wheel is in a bind. I am pretty sure most come with a ring that the cap will bolt to that can be put in behind the locking spring/ring whether the slug is in or not.
The front has a detroit. I dont think the ones from Solid can be easily removed. I will prbably order teh PP flanges
When I was looking most sub $200 flanges would not allow the cap to be reinstalled. My 44 slugs I had in the waggie came out easily by rocking the truck a couple inches forward and back once I removed the snapring. Hubs have too many parts to break, drive slugs are simple strong and don't stick out from the hub(which is a plus for people running skinny wheels) so it was an easy decision for me. Ill have them this weekend John so if you want to wait I'll give you a report on quality/finish.
You don't really risk anything except extra wear on bearings driving on the highway with drive slugs as long as your front driveshaft is balanced and you run a detriot or arb in the front
People forget the TJs don't have hubs or axle disconnects in the front and they drive fine on the highway even with detroits/aussie lockers ect. As long as you don't apply power to the front axle the locker will never lock
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I have the detroit and flanges on the front of the jeep. Have only run it one trip. Aside from the front driveshaft shaking and making noise, it was unnoticeable. Main reason behind this was that I got tired of installing/removing flanges with the old welded diff. Locking hubs are for suckers.
I need to flush the **** out of the injectors in my crewcab, what is the best **** to use? I have access to one of the pressurized vessels that you hook up to the rail and then pull the fuel pump fuse, but dont know what to put in it. I tried a retardedly high concentration of seafoam through the tank but that didnt seem to do anything.
Is the tool like this thing. . . http://www.run-rite.com/industry/9677.html
it has a recommendation for fuel cleaner additive attached in the file, no first hand experience though.
Is pulling injectors and rebuilding/replacing not an option? My only other suggestion would be a lucas product.
The injectors are $70 each (x8) so I would like to avoid buying new ones if possible.
Everybody please keep in mind http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8207
I'm not going to edit posts unless they are explicit, however I will start the banning procedure if this keeps up.
i ***d..
will someone explain how to wire up a new set of turn signals. please and thanks.
??Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Pull them out and soak them in injector cleaner overnight. Use a 9v battery to actuate the injector and blow some compressed air through them. A sonic cleaner would be good too.
I have a spare set so I'm thinking about sending them to witchhunter for $18 each, but I'd like to try the easier and (hopefully) cheaper flush first.
if you have a spare set then it just turns out that you are too lazy to swap them out
I'm going to guess the spare set is in worse or equal shape.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
stuff with big upper plenums aren't the easiest engines to swap injectors
Yah, no... They are out of a junkyard engine and are in unknown condition. Plus, as Flem said, I have to remove the upper intake plenum to get to them. That plus all the plastic fuel rail faggotry make me not want to **** with it any more than neccesary.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I see. I guess you should send your spare injectors out to be cleaned and then swap them so you only have to **** with everything once
If I were you I would just convert that ho to dual TBI and be done with it :flipoff2:
DAMN, you beat me to it! :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
it would probably start quicker
I say you get rid of it and use your student loan money to make payments on a new truck.
Anyone know what the fitting size on a Wix 33481 is? I.E. I am trying to find AN adapters and Jegs has 3 different sizes, but I dont not know which it is and do not have the tools to measure one here.
Look it up on the Wix website, it lists fitting sizes there.
Is there anywhere in town I can get a tiny (~3/8 x 3/8 x 1/16") piece of high density plastic? Exact material isnt important, something like Delrin or teflon will probably work.