are you going to unload your current tranny/tcase? Will they bolt up to a 304?
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are you going to unload your current tranny/tcase? Will they bolt up to a 304?
Yes my current setup will bolt up to a 304. It might be awhile before I get the time to get it out though.
i think that if you go with the auto that you need to go with a doubler of some sort
Yeah, thanks for the post on pirate, made alot of sense doing a doubler. From what that guy said about me having enough room with the stretch I think I will have enough room for a doubler. I have that 203 but plan on getting a 205 so I could do a doubler with those. I'll have to build a beefy crossmember but it should work. The main reason I decided not to go with a twin sticked 300 4:1 is because of costs, a 205 will bolt right up.
if you are basing this on cost, a
203/205 doubler $600-700
241/205 doubler $400
241 case max $175
Ide go with the 241 because it gets you lower gears, cost less, its easier to shift, easier to find if something happens to it.
But I will let you know how mine work out after Clayton
Sell off that **** and just get the waggy stuff and a 300. Then you can just 4:1 the 300 later instead of a doubler with its length, weight, and cost drawbacks.
Sorry Kopecki, Chevy/GMC runs deep in my family so I'm sticking with the 350. I know kind of :rainbow:.
It's alot easier to find parts and upgrade Chevy stuff than AMC stuff. Not to mention it was a pretty good deal, I didn't find any deals on 360's that could beat what I have now.
Creighton, are most of the costs related to the 203/205 doubler because of adapters and shift linkage or what? I have the 203 and could pick up a 205 for fairly cheap, so I'm guessing most of the costs come from other stuff. Let me know how your 241 doubler does, I thought there was alot of drawbacks using a chain driven case? Isn't a 203 chain driven?
You don't use the chain in the 241 doubler. It only uses the planetary gears which rarely have a problem in a 241. The 203 doubler is the same, only using the reduction part of the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
The 241 also gives you a better low range as it has a 2.42 as opposed to whatever the 203 has. Thinks it's around 2.
The cost of 203/205 doublers is due to the machining of the adapters. No kits I know of come with shifters so the ~$700 price is the adapter and intermediate shaft alone. One other option you might want to consider is the Northwest Fab black box. Its a cheaper version of the Klune V that is actually a little better. It uses the planetaries from a 241 and I believe it costs around $1400, which isnt that bad once you add up the cost of a different adapter, case, etc.
Black box. If I ever actually do a doubler I'll probably do this.
http://www.northwestfab.com/blackbox.html
Those black boxes look pretty sweet, but pricey. It'll be awhile before I decide on or can afford a doubler, atlas, etc... I'll just find a 205 for cheap and run it for now.
Here's my wishful list of things to accomplish over the winter break between hunting.
-Finish welding on stretch kit
-Make new upper rear shock mounts on frame
-Cut/turn/redrill 1-2" foward on new rear perches
-Lengthen rear brakelines
-Cut sections of the cage out for fuel cell and new dash setup
-Run new fuel lines and install fuel cell
-Pull old drivetrain
-Make new motormounts/tranny/t-case crossmember with new plasma
-Go through 350/th350/205
-Cut floorboard/drop in new drivetrain
-Lengthen/Shorten front and rear driveshafts
-Build anti wrap bar
-Install chevy power master cylinder
-Decide on radiator/electric fan setup
-Connect throttle cable/engine electrical/shifters
If I can scrape up the skrilla buy chromoly rear shafts from Clarke and figure out something for the front shafts.
There's several other things I'll need to get done over time as well such as redoing parts of the cage, building stinger/radiator hoop, front tube fenders, gauges, c.b., and sound system.
My objective is to get as much as I can accomplished over the break and have it ready before TCC.
Finally fired up the plasma tonight. It kicks some ass. Tomorrow I'm going to finish up the stretch kit, new perches, and get the axle back under it. I'll also begin cutting up the k5 frame and get the motor/trans out. I need to get everything situated in the shop so that I have room to start the drivetrain swap.
Got the stretch kit completely done. Just need a set of xj bushings for the shackle hanger's, I thought that yj bushings might work but they didn't. I got a little carried away with the plasma and cut my rear fenders some more. Plan is to weld the tailgate shut and put the taillights in there. Anyway, enough jibbajabba, heres some pics.
Start.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit001.jpg
Weapon of choice.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit003.jpg
Rear crossmember off and framerails shaved.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit005.jpg
Left frame rail bent so I straightened it as best as I could. Leveled and squared away, kit tacked on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit013.jpg
XJ spring hung, missing the bushing but you get the idea of how far the axle will be set back by the center pin.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit021.jpg
The 350/th350 combo, along with k5 frame and an assortment of parts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etchKit010.jpg
Oh, and if you look in the 3rd picture you can see how the left frame rail dips down and inward. As I said, I bent it back as best as I could, but it was still off by about .25"-.50" compared to the other side. I just had to compensate with the kit a little, no biggie.
If you're just gonna weld it shut anyway want to sell me the tailgate and surrounding sheetmetal and you just weld a solid piece of sheet in there?