i run 52's w/o the overload for my fronts and with the overload for my rear, i left the overload in the rear to help with wrap, that is all, i was going to take it out once i built an anti wrap bar
i would take it out and not look back
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i run 52's w/o the overload for my fronts and with the overload for my rear, i left the overload in the rear to help with wrap, that is all, i was going to take it out once i built an anti wrap bar
i would take it out and not look back
Brian, do you know what your packs are out of or how many leafs they have in them? If your rig is being held up by 52"s then I would think my jeep would be supported just fine. Your and my rig might actually be nearer the same sprung weight with how much body you are missing and how much 1/4" crap mine has added.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
the rears are stock 90 blazer and the fronts are rears from an 80's 1/2 ton suburban
as for number of leafs i have no clue, but they are stock other than the missing overload in the front
Was the lid of that toolbox jb welded on? The hinges broke off as soon as I got it back to paint.
No, they were welded on, prob. not all that well though b/c it was one of my first welding attempts. I never let the lid flop all the way back b/c it would hit the back of my seats though. I bet that is what the problem was. It should still be good if you just line everything up and weld them back on. Sorry that happened.
Nothing is as easy as it seems in your head.
I started actually taking measurements and looking at the jeep to plan for the rear stretch that I am going to be doing next week and it is a bit harder than it should be b/c of existing things on the jeep.
As far as the anti-wrap bar. I was planning on just making a new crossmember b/c it seemed WAY easier than an entire new bar. Well there is just too much stuff (fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, exhaust) in the way to build a new crossmember 4" rearward. Instead I'm thinking the easiest option is to cut the bar itself and sleeve it. Right now the bar is made from 1 7/8" OD x 0.22" pipe ( I think it is 1.5" schedule 80) and it has held together fine. I would need to be adding about 4". I have some 1.5" OD x .1375" (unknown of what it really is). The anti-wrap bar arms are 30" and 25" approximately. I have 40.5" of the 1.5" OD tubing. So I could run 20" of sleeved material in each arm of the anti-wrap bar. So about 8" above and below the splice. Think it will bend? Of course it will be heavily plug welded and butt welded.
Thanks
I thought of another thing. If I added a giant gusset webbing between the arms then it would help a lot to keep the splice together even if the sleeving didn't extend the full length of the arms. I think that is what I'll do with some added 'speed holes' :gigem:
Think 16 gauge would be strong enough? It's the only material I have in a large enough size.
Started work on stretching the jeep.
Mocked up the chevy 52"s with the stock cj shackle hangers flipped and bolted into the rear most holes. I'm going to try this first and check the shackle angle with weight on it. Then go from there.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02937.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02938.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02939.jpg
Also got the stock rear crossmember off, prepped the frame-rails, and drilled the perches for a 1" stretch; the springs give me another 3 7/16". Going to go get some steel tomorrow and start putting it back together.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02940.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02941.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02942.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02943.jpg
The heavy fab work should be finished now.
I thought that turning around the stock cj shackle hangers and moving them to the most rearward hole was a pretty good idea. Here is what the shackle angle looked like by doing that. 4" long shackles. It looked pretty close.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02949.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02952.jpg
This is what the shock angle will look like if I run them in the stock upper mount. Pretty angled; which will decrease their dampening ability. I'll run it like that for a while after I check shock travel, otherwise I will have to fab some upper mounts up.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02955.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02956.jpg
All finished up with the shackle hangers recessed into the crossmember/bumper. Body mounts as gussets for the frame tie in brackets.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02957.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02959.jpg
And on the jeep for the last time. I ended up pushing the shackle mounts an additional 1/2" back to make the shackle angle a bit more vertical. It now will be pretty close to the angle it was before which was a good combo of compression and extension.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02962.jpg
Still have shocks/d-shaft/anti-wrap bar to finish things up. The d-shaft will need to be extended 5" as well as the anti-wrap bar. It looks like the 52"s are going to run a bit higher then the front bastard pack. I will put the RE 1.5" SOA springs in the front that were in the rear to level it out.
Making progress.
what are your shocks getting wet?
huh?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
It's on it's own weight and looks good. It is surprising how 4 1/2 more inches wheelbase makes that much of a difference in the overall appearance. It is a bit higher then the front but it is totally unloaded (no fluids, tools, hi-lift, people). I am also happy with the shackle angle, again it will compress a bit more with some additional weight.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02967.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02968.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02969.jpg
I got the anti-wrap bar finished up as well. It was extended 3.5". It is 1.5" sch 80 sleeved with 1.5x.135" tubing. With the longer neck I was concerned about it bending where the two arms meet. The neck was boxed in with 1/8".
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02970.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02972.jpg
Still have to extend the driveshaft and measure the suspension travel to see if the shocks will work. Also have to extend the rocker guards rearward.
All finished up except for the shocks. After driving a few miles I am very pleased with how it feels. I think it may be better than it was before. B/c it feels so stable I am not in a rush to get the shocks sorted out. I would need to measure the total suspension travel to do so anyway and I have no means of doing that now.
I extended the driveshaft 4.5" by retubing the entire thing with 2"x.120" DOM. I ended up getting lucky and found a 36" piece of drop at the local metal place and they just gave it to me. I also extended the rocker guards by welding on some more 5"x3"x.25" angle.
Overall I am very pleased.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02973.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02975.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02979.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02980.jpg
Looks good :gigem: