That is pretty much exactly what I want to do with my 60.
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That is pretty much exactly what I want to do with my 60.
I guess I missed this. You can use a conventional radiator. I used the stock 92 camaro radiator with my LT1. The only trick to it is the initial filling of the system. The way I do it on the camaro is to take the top inlet hose (one pointing towards the driver's side off the water pump) off and fill the system through this hose. Once you've done this, put the hose back on and fill the radiator. Fire it up without the cap to help bleed the air out of the system. Continue to fill and monitor while the engine warms. Once the thermostat has opened and you have the system filled, put the cap on and let the system build pressure. After this, you will need to open the bleeder on top of the thermostat housing to let any remaining air out. Once you've done this, shut it off and let it cool, then check the level again. You might have to repeat this part of the procedure again, but that's about all there is to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Thank you, good honest tech help.
Anyone have a good site or place to get an innertube? One on my alto tires has awesome tread, but has a goodsized hole near the sidewall that im not sure can be patched only. Rim size is 15".
Napa.
If you run a tube, do you need to have something in there to hold the tube in place? I know dirt bikes have this.
I know the dirt track guys never did when I was working at Eaker's. Would the valve stem keep it where it needs to be?
In fact, when we set up dirt track tires we would put baby powder inside the tire before putting the tube in to reduce the friction and wear between the tube and the tire.
I think i found an 8.8 for me heep. my question is that the axle has 4.10 gears....should i keep these and upgrade the front axle or should i get 4.88s for both? I am on a (measly)budget.
Tube: Just make sure you put a boot on the inside of the tire to keep the hole in it from rubbing one in the tube or pinching it. +1 on the baby powder and check the rim and tire for anything else inside that might not get along w/ the tube. Go ahead and get you a few patches for the tube while you are at it.
Axle: Leave the gears like they are. The higher gears (lower numerically) in the front will allow your front tires to turn faster, therefore pulling you up the obstacle better. ;)
If the gears are good in the 8.8 just put 4.10's in the front and be done, then upgrade later if you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by NealtheDestroyr
gotchaQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
It appears that my new steering stop is actually my axle shafts. This is a result (i guess) of mating a Yukon Chevy outer to a Ford inner. Not good or no big deal?
Edit: at rest, and at full lock both left and right, the stop is actually in the box. The inner/outers are close but do not touch (obviously they have touched at some point though). The cast in steering stop on teh knuckle as seen in the first pic does not reach the C before the box stops turning. I suppose I could weld on some round stock to the knuckle to make that the actualy stop, but not sure if it really matters
drill and tap the inner c insert bolt with jam nut and then its adjustable
or take a die grinder and clearance them where they tough until they don't touch anymore
this. having your steering stops not be your steering stops will make you knuckles last longer with hydro steering. the cylinder is actually the best place to serve as the stop, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I have some new spicer 4.10s for a D30 in a box someplace I could let go for cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by NealtheDestroyr
A few XJs came with 4.10s, and 5speed 4cyl TJs did too. (If you can find a junkyard one for cheap and swap it in)
you still have to account for tierod flex, so the knuckle stop should be pretty close even though the ram should bottoms out first.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Is there an easy way to wire up e-fans? Right now I have the mechanical fan (with a broken clutch and a shroud that doesn't fit) and the e-fans set up as pushers. They are dual 12" fans from a dodge minivan. I don't want to spend $50 on some wires. I plan on taking out the mechanical crap and switching the fans to pullers
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall2.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
don't forget the fuse
What's the best way to get a strong bond between 2 pieces of metal brake line? I've tried soldering and jb weld and neither is strong enough. This is for building a frame for a RC crawler, so I don't want to use and threads into different shaped distribution blocks or anything like that.
You can get the thermostat from O'reilly's or Vato Zone.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Transmission temp gauge, some people say put the probe in the pan. Some say in the transmission line to the cooler. I think the cooler line would be easier to install and more accurate. Thoughts?
mine is in the pan, was real easy to install but I've also got a B&M deep pan so drilling and tapping wasn't an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
That being said if you put it in the line running to you're cooler it will give you a better idea of exactly how hot your trans is getting
Is the JB weld not sticking, or just too hard to work with? Get the torch and some brazing rod out and go to town.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
http://www.jegs.com/p/Be-Cool-Radiat...53117/10002/-1Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
This is where I picked mine up from. There are a few ways to do dual fans. I went with the 185 and 210 sensors IIRC. One fan comes on w/ one, when it hits 210 both should be on. Seemed this was the best way to keep the amp draw down. When you buy relays, buy extras and throw them in your glovebox.
assume you've found this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
http://www.rccrawler.com/tuber.htm
and this:
http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk4/rcstuff/
No, but thanks for the links.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Anyone ever delt with Dexter trailer axles? When I bought the trailer 3 yrs ago, I specified 5200lb axles. A few months later I noticed that the VIN tag said 3500lb. The tag on both axles shows item #D60. Dexter website shows an item D52 and D60, so I assume 5200lb v. 6000lb, but it shows 8 studs on a D60. Mine only has 6. I can't call them till tomorrow. Anyone know?
Are they five lug bolt pattern or 6? If five then they are 3500 I believe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
just sayin...Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
My bad I was reading it on my phone as I was on my way out the door to buy supplies to hopefully save the bastards engine, that has evidently been playing aquaman while in my barn.
I have always ASSumed that 5 lug = 3500, 6 lug = 5200 or 6000, and 8 lug = 7000+, but I do not know for sure if that is true. I am trying to figure out how to prove what axles are really under it so I can splain it to a cop if I get pulled over.
FYI, and Gehl track loader(bobcat) weighs 7400lbs. No idea those things were that heavy.
I pulled around a john deere ct322 a couple of times last year, not sure exactly what it weighed but it was up there.
The 6 lug axles on my trailer ar 5200 lbers. I believe you are right that generally 5 lug= 3500 lb, 6 lug is usually 5200 lb but can be 7000, and 8 lug is 7000 lb and up.
i know its barely halfway through the 2010, but I'd like to nominate this for tamor story of the year:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Seth
agreed...in my day I've seen people use more words to say less, but it doesn't happen often!
yea yea, shoulda known better :flipoff2: I was just agreeing with JB about how heavy those things are.
6 lug can be 3500lb i think thats what kopekli's are
Yea you can get 6 lug in 3500 lb, just not common. Same bearings as 5 lug. Usually 6 lug is the same bearings as 8 lug.
Are all Ford NP435s the same bolt pattern (on the transmission itself) and take different bell housings or do the transmission itself have a different bolt pattern?
I think they all are, the bell housing makes the difference as for the engine side. I am not sure on the tailshaft if there is a different length on the output shaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling