Sloth

I haven't measured anything yet. All I know is this thing is beef. The tubes are bigger than the king pin axles, the steering is beefier and it weighs 100,000,000 pounds.

It's only five years old So i'm hoping not to have to replace any seals or bearings, but after tearing it down I'll know.

I have no idea exactly what i'm going to use for shocks/springs, i'm not sure if i'm reusing the radius arms anymore either. I have alot of research to do before i start buying parts.

First step is to take it down to tubes and knuckles and paint it. Then i'll know what i'm working with.
I'm hoping to be on 42's by clayton, but who knows if i can pull money together for that.

SOunds optimistic. But . . .Attachment 18565

I wouldn't tear it down. Just run it like it is.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=162366

That's too easy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shaggy

I wouldn't tear it down. Just run it like it is.

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I agree you are likely to **** up more than you fix by tearing it down, just paint it as it is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV

That's too easy

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Your frame is narrower than a 80-96 so that will make it harder to mount everything all nice and proper. You might have to build new arms(with a clearancing bend) or outboard the frame mounted Radius arm brackets, or I bet you get tired of messing with it and try and chop off all the coil stuff and throw some leafs on there.:flipoff2:

Good luck in interested to see how you decide to make it work.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...perduty&page=2

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...269&highlight=

couple of setup threads

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums6/...ldIV/027-2.jpg

I'm sorry for sketching this out in advance. I know everyone wants me to just start cutting and welding ****:flipoff2:

don't mind the prices, some of them are for both sides. Oh and i was bored so I labelled everything.

definatly a start... I still say screw radius arms and build a bad ass 4 link setup... I have my stock coil spring buckets at home if that helps at all

Coilovers

Does that say 9/16" for the bolt? Why would you neck the arm down on both the top and the bottom to adapt to the heim? Seems like you would want the heim at the top of the arm, so it does not interfere with the frame?

Also I know your axle came with square tube arms, but why not some DOM?

If you reply I might not see it right away, I have to call Duff and tell him to just shut down his business. With quality fabrication like this, no one will be buying his arms....

I'd say if you're going to stay with rect. tube, ditch all the miters and like Karl said run the JJ/heim at the top of the arm (see pic). If you have to, maybe one bend/miter for tire clearance, and keep it in plane. If you do end up mitering, don't gusset like that. Just plate the joint. Run the JJ/heim at the top so you don't have to build a huge drop bracket that hangs way down.


You could probably build a nicer radius arm with better clearance out of round tube.


Also you may consider a 4 link. Chopperman on PBB has a build thread where he put D60 under his Chevy. Triple X Traction made a pretty pimp 4 link setup with axle brackets that used the same bushings as your axle in a similar configuration.

The XXX kit is a parallel 4 link with a panhard. Good for mostly street driving, not so much for crawling. Regardless, any kind of link suspension is beyond Tummy's budget and fabrication skills so my vote goes to leaf springs. Do NOT tear the axle down. No good can come of it.

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/images/FT_K2132.jpg

or

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/images/FT_K2030.jpg


I would go with some radius arms, and as narrow as your frame is I doubt you would need much if any bend for tire clearance.