on the bellhoushing side np435 s are all the same. as for the transfercase side there is a 2wd and and a 4wd version output pattern.
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on the bellhoushing side np435 s are all the same. as for the transfercase side there is a 2wd and and a 4wd version output pattern.
If so, then do you still have your NP435 laying around somewhere that you wanted to sell me before?Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I got motivated here. . .. . . . read!
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np435.htm
p/s/. . .easy to to rebuild by the way!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Yeah he still has it.
The frick speaks the truth...Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Would there be anything wrong with using the A/C condenser as a transmission cooler instead of buying one to put in? My trans got real hot on the way home the other day and started slipping, so I need to do something about it. My A/C doesn't work and I don't plan on spending the money to convert from R12 anyways.
Anyone know of a place online that sells chevy factory or aftermarket hydro clutch pedals? The one that came with my trans is not gonna easily work.
Your car should be R134...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
my bronco was freeze 12Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
It was 12, now it's 134. kinda...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Dexron mecron III multiplied by R12 doesn't equal 134!!!:gigem:
I knew the guy at advance was tellin me wrong :haha:Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
You can use the condenser as a cooler but it is unnecesarily huge for the task. I would fix the a/c though and just get an aftermarket cooler...
That's what I ended up doing. The one I put on is small but it's all the parts store had. When I get a chance, I'll put in a larger one. I bought one of those retrofit kits at advance and put it on. All it is is an adapter for both the high pressure and low pressure service ports and 3 cans of r-134a with oil in there. My A/C is definitely cooler but not cold. I put all three 12 oz. cans in, and the gauge still says 0 psi even though it's cool air now. Should I put more R134 in or should I put some UV dye in and check for leaks? The compressor used to cycle before I filled it, but now it stays on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Did you evacuate the system first?
I read about that step, but kinda skipped over it in excitement that a whole 40 bucks could lead to a working A/C. Should I take it to a shop and have them vacuum the system and put new R-134a in? The can said it was compatible with R-12 so I figured it wouldn't hurt.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I have a venturri vaccum pump and gauge manifold if you want to try to fix it the right way. You need a compressor for the vaccum pump though and I do not have one of those.
Jesus this makes my head hurt...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
get ready to spend a bucnh of money, u need to have changed the orifice tube and a few other parts, i give your compressor a month or two before it takes a ****.
I won't use it until I get it vacuumed. I didn't read anything about changing the orifice tube. I'll see what money looks like then and maybe get a new compressor too. Then use this compressor on the other truck for OBA.
Edit: just checked the parts store website. Any reason why there's a $2 orifice tube and a $40 orifice tube?
yes
To need to replace the drier too while you have it apart.
anyone have the phpbb manual handy, might have to figure out how this ignore button, i've heard so much about, works.
Anybody know of any steering upgrades/solutions for a 2007 Dodge 2500? My tie-rod ends have had about all they will take.
Preferably I think I would like to get rid of the inverted y for a more standard cross-over type.
2008 and up steering is supposed to be alot better
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Try reading the descriptions.
Thats what I'll try, seems parts can be had for $350-500.Quote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco
One question:
The 2008 dampener is roughly $120 dollars, would I be better off buying a bilistien or fox instead?
I have never done more than screw on the adapters and fill. Has always worked, never a problem. I think I only did this on 70s-80s John Deere's though. Maybe that's the reason they always needed a can added at the beginning of the season.
i know on the second gens if you use steering from a 98 hd then they are t style but i don't know about third gens
Sparling I have a Haynes A/C tech manual you can borrow if you want to learn more than you ever wanted to know about a/c systems in general.
Here's some cheap fluid cooler tech. 90's Ferd Esploders came with an external stacked plate transmission cooler that has 3/8" hose barbs on it and is perfect for use on a trail rigs as either a transmission or (in my case) power steering cooler. It measures ~12x10x1/2" and has three mounting feet so you dont have to use those ****ty plastic things that stab through the radiator.
Then, GM put larger stacked plate oil coolers on tons of trucks and suburbans in the late 80's and 90's. The sizes vary widely and there doesnt seem to be any logic as to how they selected the size for each application. These are a bit thicker than the Esploder cooler mentioned above, but they were originally used as oil coolers so you dont have to worry as much about flushing them out if you are changing applications. The only thing that kinda sux about these coolers is they use a metric o'ring fitting to attach the lines, which typically isnt available as a normal brass hydraulic fitting. They are, however, hella easy to find in AN fittings so it will cost a little more and be a little more trouble, but its still totaly do-able. One other option is to snag the lines off the truck with the cooler and cut and flare them to just stick a 1/2" hose on. Your choice.
Anybody know of a good write up online of how to do all the post paint bodywork? I did a little painting and need to make it look good, but not show quality.
did you spray clear?
no, it's single stage.
not much then, wait a few days then try and buff it
Yukon Super Joints, the good the bad and the ugly. Opinions?
I'm tempted to buy a pair on pirate that are used, and he says one of the caps has a crack in it and needs to be replaced. I looked them up on line because I am not familiar with them. They are the needless type with bushing sleeve, replaceable caps tend to run $10 or so a piece.
Do the trunnions last? or am i buying a piece of sh*t paper weight? Link. . . http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...504&highlight=
Even If I went ahead and replaced all the caps I would still be basically get a whole joint for free compared to the price of new.
Why would you want a u-joint that has been ragged on by someone in multiple trucks? I wouldn't waste my money on that.
I once bought a pair of them. The fit of the caps was ****ty, some too tight to get on. One of the crosses was too big, did not fit in the Yukon shafts (of note is that the other cross fit in the same shaft). They do not have bushings. Supposed to be two hardened and finely machined surfaces rid against eachother and you grease them. The machined surfaces were not that nice. Sent them back and bought Spicers.
Thanks for the advise kopecki,
Good thing I looked around. . .
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123335-...-297x-203.html
$250 = 2 joints, circle clips, grease gun, grease, zerk fittings, o-rings.
Rebuild kits are $55 each
Used Joints are $125 pair
Grease gun with grease is $50
Zerk fittings are $2 each
Snap Rings are $15 each
Total of $331 for used joints!=Bull****
A friend of mine is running them with good results. He broke some yukon shafts but the joints have survived.Quote:
Yukon Super Joints, the good the bad and the ugly. Opinions?