Just curious but why do you say this?
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Tommy- new plan, 4 easy steps to lift your truck
1) BFH to correct the radius arms for your narrower frame
2) weld these to your frame:
http://www.readylift.com/images/category/large/181.jpg
3) use Evans coil buckets and bolt up the coils, shocks, drag link
4) Sit in the driver's seat and make engine noises because your **** is still ****ed
Fabtech arms look like ****. There's not enough room to move the radius arm in, so ill have to bent it in or outward the top mounts
Parrallel 4 link or radius arms for more flex?
4 link is going to cost a lot more and it still depends on how you set it up. I think a well set up radius arm suspension will be cheaper, easier and work just as well. Count up how much 10 of whatever rod ends you'd use and 10 tube adapters for them plus a few hundred dollars in DOM
I don't see 4 link being that much more expensive.
He's got to build a track bar for either suspension.
He's already got two rod ends on the radius arms
The axle end has bushings no rod ends there.
So at most he has to buy 2 additional rod ends and tube adapters.
I'm with BDR
Will 2x.250 DOM hold up for lower links?
and don't cut anything off of the axle so when you scrap the bronco I can buy it and use it for my Dirtymax SAS
What kind of ***** ass 3/4 ton truck doesn't have a solid front axle? I will melt it down just to spite you.
One that can outrun a Ford
Still has ifs gheyness
Who needs a solid axle to pull a trailer? Why would someone sacrifice drivability and ride comfort in a 3/4 ton truck just to say they have a solid axle?
Alot of 3/4ton and 1 ton trucks do not have the plush life of back and forth to work on the highway and pulling a trailer 5 times a year like yours does. Alot of them are used in more adverse everday working type conditions and in this aspect, one could argue that a solid front axle is more 'heavy 'duty, than an IFS setup.
http://books.sae.org/book-r-114
I think this would be the first textbook I would actually read.