There's no cup holders either so the whole thing kinda got butchered.
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There's no cup holders either so the whole thing kinda got butchered.
Scrap it
Cup holders pending.......standby. Should be 2 per occupant.
Even my dodge has 4 within the drivers reach. Screw the passengers.
In Tommy bronco it must be no less than 2 per person so you have spit cup holders as well as beer holders.
what you and Tommy don't share spit cups?
Tommys spit cups are 3 months old and have signs of evolution.
not anymore, I'm quitting.
There are only two options. I dip, or I quit.
Alto was a good shakedown for the bronco, did a couple of good things, and theres a couple things i need to fix.
Good things,
-new tires are awesome, gripped and flexed well.
-having a front locker makes a world of difference.
-Winch did it's job
It walked up everything except the center line at the rock garden
Bad things
-Starting problem
-Motor smoking (Forgot to run a pcv line, probably the culprit)
-tranny slips when it gets bound up.
To do list
-Karls 203/205 doubler
-Crossmember
-Driveshafts
-Warranty Starter
-Move batteries under hood so I don't have 10000 feet of cable
-Hit the front fender with a hammer
Fawking cup holders
Oh, he's made a non-refundable downpayment....
Needs more stinger
Happy Birthday to me!
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...psee5ca831.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps9d26729d.jpg
Got it from Karl. It's an ORD 203/205 doubler with ORD triple sticks. Gonna take my time building some pimp ass crossmembers, should be wheelable before thanksgiving.
this pimp ass crossmember you talk of should be interesting. How is it different than the one that is currently attached to it?
Last night Tommy was saying he was going to bend it out of tube. After you left I remembered why I did not do that. Most tubing benders have like a 6" radius die, so in order to go from level with the ground, to verticle, then back to level it requries 2 radius's or about 12".
Having made a doubler cross member, you can mind f' it to death, in the end, just get under there and make something. I wish I would have cleaned my welds up a little more, but in the end, it was the Klogger.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...r/IMAG0419.jpg
Should be something like this. Alll three crossmembers in 1.
If you're going through that trouble instead of bolting in the crossmember that came from karl, you should make sure it has a flat bottom and make a flat bottom skid plate a part of it or that bolts to it.
Mine hung down below the frame. That crossmember wouldnt have worked
I had to go back and look at mine. We just did a tubular crossmember for the trans, the factory 205 mount, and a TMR customs rear yoke support off the skid. I never had any issues with that setup. But only wheeled it for 1.5 years, albeit rather harshly.
I did not use the holes in the bottom of the ORU adapter.
all I can say is make sure you have some sort of secondary support off of the 205 to make sure that you take some of the torque load, once I did that I stopped snapping trans/tcase cross members, something like the mount going to the rear bearing cover in your picture above
The plan is just to basically copy Karl's crossmember with two cradle bars. One will be on the adapter between the 203 and 205, the other will be off the rear bearing plate. Instead of doing a separate tammy crossmember I'm gonna make a 180 bend and weld it to the front tube and bolt the tranny mount to it.
Like I said, you can mind f' the cross member to death. At the end of the day the picture below shows what Off Road Design has on their website and apparently it works. I am still amazed that ORD, who probably has sold more doublers than anyone, could only find this picture to post on their site....
Attachment 19515
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0d6d36c1.jpg
I'll have to bolt it up and go from there. but this is what I have pictured.
why not just use the one that came with it and add the front hoop for the trans mount?
Mine is all 3 crossmembers in one with link mounts tied in as well, seems to work great so far minus the fact that it is a royal pain to install or remove and weighs a **** ton.
I can't make a flat belly without cutting the **** out of my floor. I'm making I'd just rather start from scratch, making that one work would probably be just as much work.
Yeah but the idea is the same, all in one is what i was getting at.
Yeah the ORD kit has aluminum holes, I'll use them but they're not gonna be the source of most of the support.
I'll be using the factory foot mount, not sure if i'm gonna use the bearing plate cover also.
Modifying the factory crossmember would be more work than making myown.
Cause I want a shiny new one made for bronca, Making that one fit would be just as much work.
Yeah it'll be heavy, but easier to balance on a transmission jack.
It all depends on how it looks when i mate the doubler tonight. Being that i have the short c6 housing (7 inches shorter than the stock one) I might not even have to change the tranny crossmember.
Using the factory foot mount is a wonderful idea,
I would cut the floor, I didnt have to cut too much out of my floor to do a flatbelly with a 205/231 doubler in the TJ. Although I do have a 1inch body lift.
Guess I should buy a transmission jack the is tall enough.
I'd guess not. It came out of the klogger which should have the same width frame as your bronco so it should be as easy to bolt up the doubler to your transmission, bolt on the crossmember and then weld some tabs to the frame where they should go. Then take it all out and weld the tabs in solid and box them a bit.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps6584819b.jpg
That giant hole was already there.....
Coming from experience here I would highly recommend a secondary mount to absorb the torque. Not everyone is as nice as the schubring's and willing to spend a few hours in the dark towing you off the trail cause your trans/tcase crossmember snapped and you lost all power including lights, if you do not install one you are asking for problems, especially since you have a decent V8 and you aren't afraid to use the skinny pedal