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Pulled the engine, tranny and t-case today. Here's the crack in the tranny. It was more of a hairline crack but the 205 hangin off the end of the tranny while pulling everything opened it up a little more.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/krack001.jpg
Next we have my FUBAR'd rear driveshaft, which is probably the culprit of the tranny crackage. I noticed some vibration while driving out to 47 and I guess it was the d-shaft. It apparently made whoopy with a crossmember that I thought was far enough away from it to not worry about.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/krack002.jpg
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Anyone know where to get a clocking ring for a np205? Google didnt turn up much and all the clokcing rings for round pattern cases like 231, 208 and 241 say they wont work with a 205.
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http://www.rockdog4x4.com/products.php - there page shows one.
BDR posted a link on pirate for 1 but the link is dead.
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Rockdogs is for a figure 8 pattern 205 I need the later round pattern.
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T-case clocking issue has been solved! A D300 ring will work with a few mods.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...96#post8304796
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I was planning on getting a rear sump fuel cell and running AN lines and fittings but I have since decided to just go with good ol' fashioned rubber hose and keep my current S10 gas tank.
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I am hoping to get the t-case put back together and in this weekend and get a t-case crossmember built. I am sticking with a factory rubber t-case mount but I want the absolute flattest belly possible. I will figure out the front driveshaft clearance and other issues later but what I am trying to figure out right now is how to mount it to the frame. My previous one went under and up the side of the frame to have 2 1/2" bolts in shear on the sides and 2 1/2" bolts getting pulled on, on each side. Prety excessive strength-wise and lost me ~3" of ground clearance.
My first idea would be the easiest and is actually how the factory crossmember attaches, but I am concerned about overall strength due to the new engine and general sever use. Black is my frame rails, red is the crossmember and green is the orientation of the bolts. I'm probably being overly critical but what do yall think? There would be two 1/2" G8 bolts per side.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...08/option1.jpg
Second idea would be a little more work, but not much. Grey is metal that would be welded in. The inside of the verticle piece would be left open for the red t-case crossmember to slide up into. With this orientation it seems like the load would be better distributed to the bottom and sides of the frame and the bolts are in shear, which is mo betta.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...08/option2.jpg
Thoughts?
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i like the second design, looks mo stronger plus you can then mount a skid plate below the crossmember
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another vote for second one. Much mo betta. Hardmount that dude to the crossmember since the attachment bushings will be taking up the impact, maybe use runners of 1" pipe going forward from the tcase up to an oilpan crossmember to turn it into a cradle setup and mount the front of the cradle the same way, engine hardmounted to cradle.
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how is the bolts in shear set-up "mo betta" than the bolts in tension set-up?
your first set-up seems to be my favorite as i have done it that way in three crossmember builds.
does your transmission weight 80,000 lbs?
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2 Attachment(s)
I'd have to say look into the first one as well. A lot of people are building them these days like this by integrating the skid plate and crossmember. This spreads the load on your frame over a larger area and can be just as strong.
I'd like to do something similar to this...
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5 Attachment(s)
With much help from Rowdy I got the engine in place for good and the tranny crossmember started. I ended up having to clearance the top edge of each frame rail about 1/2" to clear the exhaust manifolds. I was hoping to avoid having to do that but meh, oh well. Then we got the motor mounts bolted up, my old crossmember fits this motor perfectly. I got the transfer case put back together enough to put it in, comeplete with kustomized dana 300 clocking ring as shown. I actually could have clocked it up a few degrees higher but I have read about oiling issues with clocked 205's and I didnt need any more clearance so I used the middle threaded holes on the ring. My engine oil pan hangs lower than the case.
As you can see, I hacked the **** out of my floor. It looked like **** anyway from the various mis-measured shifter holes I have cut and I wouldnt be able to raise my t-case up high enough with the stock floor so out it came. I will probably make something similar to Cox's tranny cover (although a little more rushed with less attention to detail :flipoff2:) that is removeable for servicing.
The crossmember came out way simple. I am thinking I will need to incoporate a skitplate into it somehow. A full belly skid would be nice, we'll see what I can come up with. If you have any ideas lets hear em. The crossmember is not done, the part where the mount bolts to will receive more bracing and the above mentioned skidplate(s) will be added.
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that looks like david-o's floor pan
:flipoff2:
