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I am gonna swap to a hawse style fairlead for my winch instead of the roller, becausevof the overall thickness. I going to stick with cable instead of syn rope, so I assume I need to get a steel one to hold up to the extra abuse of cable? Or will an aluminium one hold up fine?
definitely going to have to be steel. The cable will fork the aluminum one up, and quick. You wanna sell your roller?
I have a steel one if you want it.
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Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Yeah sounds good I'll call you and swing by after work someday.
Ed I think I'm going to need my roller for my trailer winch.
:gigem: no problem
Where can one buy the rubber bushing that mounts between a NP205 and the frame. My google searches yield nothing.
I know you can block users, but can you just block one or maybe two threads without blocking the user?
:flipoff2:
Just don't click on itQuote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I hooked my steering ram hoses up wrong and attempted to bleed it, tires off the ground. It would turn in the direction I was turning the wheel, but it was not happpy doing it. Did this thinking it just had alot of air in the system for about a dozen lock to locks. Did I fook up my ram?
No, I would think your PS box would go before the ram did.
i doubt it
Keep it that way for the halloween run
I just read about this occurring on pirate. The guy was saying that the fluid was extremely foamy and the tires would not steer smoothly (ie. jumpy and with a delay in the wheel turning). He switched the hoses back over, bleed it properly and was good to go. And sense we all know that pirate4x4 is infallible then I would say as soon as you fix the immediate problem you are good to go.
Mine wouldnt do **** but make grumpy noises when I hooked the hoses up backwards. Swapped em and everything worked fine.
What trans would be in a 2000-2001 chevy 2500hd, with 2wd auto and 6.0?4l80e right?
Yah. They changed to the 4L85E somewhere around '03 I believe. Same **** but can handle more torque.
Anyone know what the best forum is for late model GM trucks? Got some issues with mine and I'm tired of sorting through all the hits Google gives me.
GMfullsize. Bunch of mallcrawling tools but its the best I've found for late model solid tech.
yeah i think that is the one i used for the red rocket.
Anybody got a recommendation on a code reader? A certain brand or just go get Autozone to do it? If so, can they still read them if the check engine light is not currently on? The parts monkey on the phone told me the light had to currently be on. I call b.s., unless they have some sort of cheapo reader.
I have a cheapo code reader I picked up at costco for $30 or something like that http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-OBDII-Re.../dp/B001C6S6QQ. And it would read codes on the f150 after the light had turned off. I think he was full of ****. If you are looking for a cheap one, HF has them.
this is cheap?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...&q=code+reader
Does a flywheel from a 305 work on a 350?
Research on Summit part numbers says yes, as long as the tooth count is the same. Looks like chevy did internal balancing on their v8s.
How does one identify a 305 from a 350. Have a 85 K10 that came with a 305 but PO said engine was replaced with a "race car" motor.
It has been a while since we dealt with this, but the old mechanic that we were talking to told us that the only true way was to pull the heads. I don't think there is any numbers on the block to differentiate.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I think the sbc 400 is external ballance, not that this helps you....Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
305 heads have scallop's (less material) around all the bottom head bolts under the exhaust ports. most other sbc heads are paired bolts with scalllops between or no scallops at all. the scallop i am talking about is the area of the blocks deck that you can see with the head on. all 305 are 2 bolt mains. there really is no definative way to tell with out takin it apart alil or actually running the #'s
I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what is wrong with the front end on my truck. It has a devastating clunk/pop when turning. The trac bar bushings are new and all the steering drag-links. The only thing I can think of is control arms or ps box.
I have a case of beer for anybody that can figure it out :beer:
do your brakes lately? The caliper bolts on my truck have to be locktited and tightened to like 180 lbs. Made a sweet clunking noise when they backed out.
Not recently, but I'll check. I haven't noticed anything when the wheel was off though.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryg79
u joints
Unit bearing is on the way out possibly. My dad had this problem on his superduty once I replaced the unit bearing the problem went away.
Axle shaft? I check drive shaft and steering shaft and they look good, but had doubts about the axle shaft even though there was not anything blatantly obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
Unit bearings still seem tight, is there a better way to test than just shaking the tire?Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
A friend working in the Congo saw this thing and was wondering who makes it. He said it doesnt have any badging or easy to identify labels on it and I'm not familiar enough with side by sides to recognize it. Any ideas?
yup. sounds like its binding up and popping when you turn.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
see, even john knows I'm right.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
it's...Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling