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You can tell by the casting marks on the ends of the heads. I believe there is a variety of different marks they can have so I dont really know what to tell you to look for but if you can take a picture of the end of the cylinder head I can tell you what the heads are.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
... if i ever took the time to punctuate my contractions. its only funny when it points out someones stupidity.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryg79
Punctuation isn't a verb.
or think about my posts
Punctuation is not a verb, but to punctuate is
I'm gonna punctuate your face.
Bam, you just got pwned by The Stig
you could pull the valve cover and run the head casting numbers
looks like it has a jeffco reverser diff box for the rear end, so I would guess it is all custom and motorcylce engine powered or the more i look at it maybe a jap knock-off coil overs look cheap and upsidedownQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
He said something about the possibility that its Chinese, but I dont remember why.
With one tire in the air and 4wd engaged I could not find any slop in the u-joints or bearings. Also checked ps fluid and it's good. The noise seems not to be coming from either wheel, can be felt in the steering wheel when turning at speed or parked.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Any other ideas?
i know you said the bushings are good in the track bar but everything i hear points to that. double check
I'm just shooting from the hip here...
Is there any slop in the steering box/frame area? I noticed a couple weeks ago some company came out with a steering box brace for these trucks. Is this a possible issue? Or is it something for the ricers?:confused2
No noticeable steering box/frame slop, that I can tell
Colman- I thought that too but the trac bar bushings are brand new and the bolts are tight as ****. The bushings were bad and caused the bolts to loosen. I'm wondering if there was a under lying problem that caused the bushings and ball joints to go out.
If I had money i would fix all this **** with new carli ****, but i don't.
edit- The noise has temporarily stopped with no change to anything
Start throwing the impact to any/all bolts. Body mounts, crossmembers, bumper mounts, etc. Anything that connects the framerails. I had a clunk for a while on my F150, would only clunk when turning. Found the trans crossmember bolts were just loose enough to allow it to shift.
both second gen and third gen trac bars are not so bueno. third are better but there is alot of weight and force with that heavy bitch of a motor being slung around and a 60 floatin under....
that brace is a POS and causes more damage than good.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
You should check u-joints with tires blocked and transmission/tcase in neutralQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I've done that along with a couple hard 4wd take offs both on and off road this morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
I'm going to just start taking **** apart again starting with trac bar.
I'll be doing this before the meeting if anybody wants to come by.
Trac bar is good, got to be u-joints? Is there any regular part-store u joint that's better than the others?
I went to 3 different parts stores the other week looking for a brand I recognized and ended up with Precisions from Checker
What time are you starting? I might drop by.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
unless your that damn anal about it, i honestly would worry about it. My old 98 1500 (same basic design) has been popping and squeaking since i got it. buy a bag of chips or a gay tip to drown out the noise.
to get rid of it, buy a free spin kit.
Third time ****ing with the trac bar seems to have it fixed for now.
Just for reference I tightened the bolts to the point that I'm surprised they didn't brake.
if they brake, your breaks might not workQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Cooks sells precision they are made in the US... I run them.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I might have to chalk this one up to stupidity, might have to check again in the morning though.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Get spicers from Brazos Valley Driveline.
they dont always carry spicers, have another brand. cant u get spicer thru napa?
NAPA and CarQuest should both carry Spicer and Neapco u-joints.
We (napa) dont carry spicer but we can order them.
the other napa is better from my experience. your napa is more of a machine shop that happens to cary some parts
Fj-40 axles are they worth a damn? Any way to tell if the shafts are aftermarket (longfield or trail gear) or stock when looking at them out of the axle?
What's the going rate for front and rear pair with all stock parts?
not really worth much. end of the stub may have a LF stamped in it if it's a longfield (just pop off hub dial). I think the main upgrades to stock cruiser axles involve swapping birfs and outers to minitruck stuff. Think the stock birfs had a lower spline count, (minis have 31 splines), and I'm pretty sure the knuckles are different, but I couldn't tell you exactly how. Maybe TLCs didn't have 4-piston calipers?
Would think if you had truly stock setup with pumpkins $400 would be an alright deal
What is the application? 40 axles had an offset rear, and for a lot of years had drums all the way around also.
i believe you don't want anything made before ~78. drum brakes, course spline pinions, the 9.5" diffs aren't said to be any stronger than an 8". basically the axles are identical from 78 on up minus the offset and pumpkin.
on the flat spot on the birfield the manufactures name will be engraved on them.
personally, i don't see a reason to dick with FJ40 stuff when mini stuff is so cheap.
not on bellfields, and not on my OG longfieldsQuote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
Is there a set from a particular year you're looking at? That would help.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
When I bought my front axle it was stock from a 76 (aside from spring over perches) and cost me $500, which was the going rate in 2001. They may be worth less now because there are so many options for front axles now. 76 started disk brakes. 78 started fine spline pinions...but if you're going to an aftermarket set you'll end up with fine spline anyway so that's not much concern. 79 and up will get you the more desirable larger steering arm bolt pattern, but smaller pattern knuckles can be swapped for mini knuckles and retain the FJ disk brakes. The knuckles are the same but the spindles out and birfs are different. The advantage (if much) of cruiser rotors is they are vented vs. minis which are not. Cruisers are 4 piston calipers as well.
Rears are typically not worth as much unless you've got a FJ, waggy, or you're a rover homo. I can testify a driveshaft linked between a center output and offset pinion will require some trailside Brune Motors grinding to work. I don't think much changed on them through the years except the fine spline pinions in 78.
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1954477071.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
??? sounds decent?
sounds like a dang good deal to me