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well the heat is definitely not good for the pump. my setup gets pretty warm which i why a run a synthetic power steering fluid. no use switching now but if you replace the pump i would use an amsoil or royal purple fluid. I use the amsoil synthetic tractor hydraulic fluid with good results.
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I sent PSC some pictures of my setup asking if they thought anything looked suspicious and they said the set up was just fine.
Sent them the pump for a rebuild and diagnostic. They said that the high pressure valve was stuck open causing the pump to act like it was in by-pass all the time. They took it all apart and replaced the case (which they said was the cause of the sticking valve) and shipping it back to me on warranty. I installed it, added a bottle of fluid and am good to go. It steers fine now.
I cycled the system while bleeding it around 40-50 times both in the air and on the ground, with hubs locked and un-locked and it all appears fine. Took it for a 10 min test drive around the neighborhood and afterward measured the temp of the fluid in the reservoir right at 140F. I believe Kelvin at PSC told me that the fluid didn't start breaking down until 220F.
Thoughts?
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1 Attachment(s)
Neighborhood 4th of July Parade
Attachment 19214
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Sinking the gas tank.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC04231.jpg
Tank hold down straps, 1"x1/8" strap
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...DSC04238-2.jpg
RCI 2161a. 15 gallons. The tank is 12" tall. It will come out 5" above the floor and 7" under the floor.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC04234.jpg
Custom AN -8 to 5/16" hose barb fittings.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC04239.jpg
Skid plate/mount, 1/4" plate with 1.5"x1/8" angle and 3/8" countersunk bolts. It will be flush with the bottom on the frame rails.
More work to come.
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I need to do this so I can add a kiddo seat. Part of the original plan, just never did it.
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Why did you cover up the aluminum tank with steel? Looked better before
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Way cleaner install in my opinion. No plumbing to be seen and no gap around the tank to be seen. Plus I can put a cooler or spare parts/crap on top of it and not lose the storage space. . . Cjs are small enough.
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Nice work, looks clean.
If you still need more cargo area and don't mind doing some sheetmetal work/cutting the tub, you can do what I did. It kind of depends on how wide your rear axle/tire clearance is though.
This is a pretty old pic, before rollover vents etc...but you get the idea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/cage350.jpg
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5 Attachment(s)
Or you could've been super smart and gotten that same tank dimensions with it orientated the other way and put the whole thing under the Jeep and leave that room for storage...:flipoff2:Attachment 19285Attachment 19286Attachment 19287Attachment 19288Attachment 19289[ATTACH]
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3 Attachment(s)
I had to cut a little sheet metal out back to push the tank all the way to the outside sheetmetal - to allow for the axle uptravel.Attachment 19290Attachment 19291Attachment 19292
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Tall tanks are better for hills...
Of course you can take this advantage away by just always wheeling with more than a half tank of gas....
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I think it is interesting how the RCI tanks do not come with tabs anymore. Mine came with a label that explained that they are now not coming with them because too many idiots were using them to hold the fuel cell without any additional support and cracking the cells. I guess RCI was tired of the complaint calls from rednecks wanting their money back.
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yep - the preferred mounting method is with the straps. I would do the same thing to get away from those customer support problems if I was them...