He's meaning something diagonal from the bottom to the top. Horizontal bars probably don't help nearly as something diagonal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
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He's meaning something diagonal from the bottom to the top. Horizontal bars probably don't help nearly as something diagonal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Yeah there's no true diagonal on that cage. PSC built it?
yah poison spyder customs
its a trail cage with interior access in mind. there are tons of them out there just like it. its a one roll deal. your probably still alive, now replace it.
in a future build it will be gusseted, door bars added, diagonals behind the seats, and seat mounts integrated. the key word there is future however
cage to frame tie ins.
they also tie the rocker guards to the frame as well.
Any plans on extra bracing?
the plates and tabs are 3/16 and the tube is 1 3/4"x1/8" i think it will be more than enough for what i do and how much the jeep weighs.
did you only tie it in at 2 places?
i tied the front two pilars in with what you see above. The next two pillars back -right behind each seat-sits right above a body mount essentially tieing those points to the frame, and the extreme back two pillars are just bolted to the wheelwell humps, those rear points take a little more work to tie in than the front pillars do, so we'll see if i ever get the motivation to do those.
these are the ones i need. uh my bad 1 3/4" tube.
i'm starting to gather information about high steer set up, does anyone have any preferences on high steer 44 arms. Also all the ones i've seen for tie rods are tapered for 1 ton ends. are there any brands that are tapered for stock cj ends?
And everyone seems to spank it to Parts Mike arms.
Yeah I agree, if you are going to go high steer, then go ahead and get new TREs It is well documented on the interweb.
cause thats what i have, are chevy one ton tie rods the same thread and pitch as cj ones? if so then i could go for some new ends anyways but i don't want to have to rebuild my tie rod and drag link with different ends. Coop did a good job when he did the ones that i have now, and there is nothing wrong with them.
Might be the same pitch, but prob not the same diameter. all should be easy to look up. google it. im not sure exactly what the current setup is, but alot of folks go for the one ton chevy stuff when they build steering. cheap, plentiful, strong, and still tres. If not, then finding someone to make arms with different holes shouldnt be that hard.
www.sky-manufacturing.com this is where i got mine. They use chevy 1-ton TRE's but you could maybe con them in to drilling them out for stock cj. May cost you alittle bit more $$ though. I would go with the 1 tons though. They are way mo beefy than stock jeep.:gigem:
And its not that hard to make a drag link and a tie rod.
he already has a beefy draglink and tie rod that were on coops axle the thats why he doesnt wanna go one tons
thank you someone knows,anyway
heres my plan sinse this is still my dd i'm going to be going spring over in stages,
step 1 do the steering first
step 2 front
step 3 back
so the first parts was to get the 44 knuckles all stripped down and ready to add on too, i did that this weekend. then i'm going to get them machined flat and drilled and tapped for the arms. Finally add studs, cones, arms, spindle studs, and balljoints, and finally find a long weekend and put it on. This way i can run it like this even though it would still be spring under.
if something takes longer than expected (which it will) i can always get around with ol' blue.
where are you going to get your knuckles machined and drilled/tapped? i got one done at villas for 50, which was cheaper than i found anywhere on the web to send it out and get it done. the only thing with using them is that you had to have the steering arms so that they knew exactly where to drill and tap
The plan is to make this Jeep better, correct? Why not upgrade to the larger ends right now when it's easiest? I don't know if your current links are tapped solid bar or if they are weld-in bungs, but either would be easy to change to fit larger ends, assuming the tubing is of large enough diameter, which I would assume.
i was thinking this place http://www.jnutter.com/index.html it seems like they know what they are doing and its a flat $40 fee per knuckle, i don't know if that included drilling and tapping for the arms so i sent them an email yesterday asking just that.
i was going to use the nutter guy, but i didnt want to send it out, if you print out that sheet villas may be able to match the price, atleast then if something goes wrong you have some one in town to yell at. the nutter price is for machine drill and tap.
how do you get the old studs out of a fat top knucle? Do they press out or do the screw out, i cann't tell. I need to remove the 3 old studs on my drivers side knuckle so i can clean the machined surface and put new studs in.
Screw.
two nuts, locked together and a wrench on the bottom one. oh, and wd40. maybe some heat. elbow grease.
seafoam deepcreep has always worked well as a penetrating lubricant for me.
then when it snaps, drill it out! :gigem:
i just got all 3 out, thanks guys, i used pb blaster, a pipe wrench, and a 3' cheater bar.
ok so i found the dimensions,
stock tie rod ends-11/16"-18
chevy 3/4 and one tons-7/8"-18
thats only about an 1/8" difference in diameter, does anyone think i'll have enough room and strength to drill them out and retap them if need be?
depends, what is size and thickness tube are you using/
actually that would be very easy to tap out and could easily be done in a vice by hand since you would really be only chasing threads and not 100% cutting new ones. You would have to check to see if the rod ends are the same length from ball joint centerline to where the thread starts (or stops, depending on perspective)
I still don't think its necessary or a significant upgrade or makes any changes in parts availability.
i've been emailing all the manufacturers of high steer arms today to see if they can change the size and taper of the tie rod holes for me, and i've gotten a couple back, ballistic fab said they couldn't do it, but crane said they could for $109 each.
i just got another email from wfo they said they couldn't do it either, i atalked to crane again, and he quoted me $288 for both arms, 2 stud/cone kits and shipping. Seems kind of high to me? Does anyone else know?
did you try talking to parts mike, if they will change the taper/size for no charge or close to nothing you will be out the door for about 220 plus shipping
heres some sh*t ive been working on, the first is the new 2 1/2" shackle hangers for the front when i go spring over with the rear cj springs. I didn't make the shackle hangers, but just for good measure i gusseted the cr*p outa them with 1/4"