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WTF, everything I read and you all told me said I could move my front axle forward about four inches without having to go to the van box. I sure hope I don't run into these issues as below with my 2wd box and traditional high steer arms.
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=35643
brian moved his several inches forward. i don't remember exactly how many tho. i think it was four
Yeah I understand the logistics of it I'm just pissed that now I have a tapped psc box and two brand new highsteer arms that are not what I need. Now I have to decide to not move my axle as far or buy all new ****, when I read that 4" or less was fine.
It is "fine." It worked well enough for me for four years before I decided to change it.
Wasn't you old setup crossover not full high steer? I sure as he'll didn't spend all the cash on the other parts to end up with ****ty crossover. I don't want to ghetto this then have to redo it in a couple years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Yah, tierod was still mounted low. The biggest issue with running the pitman arm facing forward is spring clearance. You are gonna have to come up with something creative to solve this issue. If an off the shelf option would have worked, I'd have done it.
What about moving the box forward 3"?
That would be a retarded amount of work because of the dimples in the frame.
Alright I'm not going to buy any other parts till I get it all under there and see how it fits. If I go with the van box and tie rod behind the axle what is the minimum that I have to move it forward to make it work I can really only move my axle forward about 5 inches without running out of frame?
I had to extend my frame substantially to make the draglink parallel with the axle. About from my winch plate forward is where its extended.
Wow this really brings the gay. What about a 2wd box, and then move the tierod behind the axle so that it does not hit the draglink? Thanks for the info sharpe.
Worse off I have a ford steering box that is tapped that I could prolly use.
Moving the tierod behind the axle is the orginal intent and design of the double ended arms. There could be clearance issues with your engine crossmember though. I dont know for sure, because I have a kustom crossmember.
Putting a Ford box on this thing under some guise of making correcting this situation easier is gayer than cum in a mustache.
I think the crisis has been averted. I talked with Brian today, and he said he moved it about 4". He has the draglink in front of the axle and the tie-rod behind. He is also running the same pitman and 2wd box that I have. I am going to call mad4wd tomorrow and see if I can exchange one of my arms for the double ended style.
glad i could help
This weekend I regeared the front and rear dana 60's to 5.86's, and swapped in the welded carriers. I also did most of the work on the rear 60 to accept the sterling 10.25 35 splines.
Today, I started the transmission crossmember. Hopefully I will get it wrapped up tomorrow. Yes, i am going to gusset the outside of the plate driveshaft hump and cut out the bottom of the square tube.
Sweet pits in that metal. What are you going to do about the exhaust?
I vote just dump the exhaust in the cab. :flipoff2:
Prolly y-pipe it over to the driverside and run a single pipe or run the two pipes next to each other on the driveside since I have alot more room there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Good plan. On Pigpen, my crossover runs right under the dust cover for the trans and Y's into the single 4" which then runs straight out the back. It looks like it hangs down kinda low but it is fairly protected by the front shackles and it was really the only way to run it.
FYI, I just got off the phone with Mad4wd, his customer service is pretty good. These arms were bought/shipped out about 8 months ago and he had no problems, with me shipping the arm I didn't need back and he would simply send me the double ended arm as long as I paid the difference in the double ended vs the single which was about $30 bucks.
His product is top notch, and his customer service is right on par, if you need some hi-steer arms make sure and check him out.
4 or 6 degree shims for the front axle, I thinking 6 degrees.
Also, does anyone know of a company beside diy4x that makes some adjustable front shackle hangers like this that aren't $170 bucks. I just need the bottom part that the springs bolt to. I know I can make some, but would like to buy them to save on fab time.
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=120
Also, I assume all sbc motor mounts are the same from year to year, ie 1979 vs 1990? Just wanting to make sure before I order my poly motor mounts.
i am not 100% sure, but i think there is a difference in motor mounts through out the years, it is either that or the first set i ordered were the wrong ones, i would check at a parts store to compare years just to make sure
I thought ORD had some adjustable hangers, not sure though.
Spent the last week or so of work time messing with the trans crossmember. This thing was a huge pain in the ass. If i had the whole process to do over I would have saved some more coin and got a stak or used atlas. I also bent the rear crossmember from 1.5" dom. I will get some better pics tomorrow once I grind some welds and slap some paint on it.
Just the picture, or does the 205 hang down pretty far?
I am guessing it's only ~2"s (or less) below the frame where it's at now.
What Ed said, the picture makes it look worse than it is.
More pics of the crossmember. Yes I know the piece of angle for the trans mount is not level. The whole doubler t-case/ trans seems to have a five degree tilt to the passengerside for some reason. I tried jacking the 205 up from its outside edge and it really did nothing for it. I had someone tell me this angle is to help with driveshaft clearance with the trans, but this seems a little excessive. The only thing I can think of is worn out motor mounts, but I tried to move the motor with a piece of pipe and it really doesn't seem to move that much. If motor mounts don't fix it then i dont know what it is and will run it.
speaking from experience i would brace the d-shaft hoop some more, it sucks when a crossmember is the reason you have to stop wheeling for the weekend
I agree, even if you have to notch the floor pan to get it to fit.
Might be able to brace it like this if you can find the room inside the frame.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...membercopy.jpg
Why would you add to more bushings? The factory x member uses one bushing, if you did it like ed's picture then I don't know how you would run exhaust or fuel lines. Plus the trans x member is going to be tied in to the rear doubler x member, along with a skid. The crossmember I made is 1/4 wall it isn't going to bend.
As far as the d-shaft hoop, the only thing I would consider doing is adding another large rib to the inside of it or a small one to the top, just to make sure it doesn't taco in the middle un supported part.
I know adding the extra bushings would take up a large amount of space but that 3/8" plate (?) just looks like a real weak spot with all that beef around it. Get some 3/4 or 1" plate to put on top of it and I will be happy. :gigem:
i think just double plating the top of the hoop would work, in my opinion it would be worth the extra pound or two so you do have to re do it later
It beefed some more already I'll post pics once I finish the rear cross member.
I beefed up the hump in the trans crossmember by adding another inner backbone brace and added more material to the side gussets so that they connect.
Next, I started on the rear crossmember. I ran a sleeve through both brackets, the driverside is 1.5" dom and will be used to route all rear wiring and keep it out of harms way. The passengerside is 1 3/4 hrew and will be used for fuel system and brake line running.
Tomorrow I am gonna work on my skid and connecting it to the two crossmembers. Hopefully I will bedone with this forsaken doubler gayness.
more
That front crossmember turned out pretty good.
Doubler skid is almost complete. The front of the two runners that run parallel to the frame attach to the front side of the trans crossmember.