it was still more than .120
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it was still more than .120
.120 is a common thickness for driveshafts
When I ordered my rear High angle shaft I specifically asked Jesse about a heavier wall and he said that it isnt good on street driven trucks (obviously the buggy isnt, I was just throwing this out there). He usually uses .120 but on mine I think he used .188 because its so long (~60").
Well noone in BCS could make one over .095" wall. So my new dirveshaft is 1.75" OD, so I need to find something with a 1.75" + a little maybe ID. Need some 1 3/4" sch80 but turns out they don't make that. Some 2.25" .250" wall DOM would work, but not sure if they make that, or where to get. The XJ driveshaft is right about the right length, when I sleeve it I'll make it 1" shorter.
Some pics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ods/links2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ods/links4.jpg
And my compact muffeling solution that matches jeep.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ds/muffler.jpg
yeah, mine was a heavy duty long travel for the front of my truck, and he told me because of the size and weight that is was very hard to balance and shouldn't be used other than when in four wheel drive. So what do I do? Because of problems getting my rear driveshaft shortened (done at a local place), I threw the high angle in the back of my truck and drove around on it for 2 months. It vibrated some, but not anymore than the rest of my truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Now on the buggy I run those square drivehafts front and rear, and they work well. I've had the buggy up to 40-50 mph down some county roads back home, and they worked fine. wish I say the same about my steering. I've got mad death wobble
So what are good coil springs for a TJ? I want something that's stiffer than stock, probably about 3" lift springs, as that should give less than 3" of lift with my heavier jeep. The coils are sitting about 2" more compressed than on a stock TJ. And most importantly I don't want them to sag. I'd also like to know the cheapest place to get them.
Rubicon Express coils are the best.
Just priced 2.25 x .250 DOM at metals depot. $21/ft. I bought 3" stainless sch160 for less than that a few days ago.
What about them is the best?Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
holy damn that is a lot of money
rubi coils are known for not sagging, great flex, great quality, actual lift. just an all around good coil
OK, I've got some prices on Rubicon Express 3" TJ springs. $141 shipped. Since cheap springs would only be $20-30 cheaper I'll probably go with these. My only concern is, I'm wanting something stiffer than stock TJ coils. Will these be stiffer at all?
i think the rubicon express coils are a little stiffer, but they are also known to be about 1' taller than advertised, and they settle about 1/2 inch
rubi coils are stiffer but the guys that i have talked to wont give me a spring rate
im kinda in limbo with them but will end up getting their springs anyway. xj or zj coils will be stiffer.
Their spring rates are on Pirate somewhere in the Jeep section.
here they are
Spring Rates:
Super Lift 4" TJ coils:
Front - 150 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear - 150 lds/in. (constant rate)
Rubicon Express 4.5" TJ coils:
Front - 190 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear - 250 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Currie Enterprises 4" TJ coils:
Front - 165 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear "std" - 175 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear "hvy duty" 192 lbs/in. (progressive rate)
Rancho TJ coils:
Front: 130 lbs/in.
Rear: 130 lbs/in.
Rear Hvy: 150 lbs/in.
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...hreadid=508279
Look alot like I order the rubicon express tomorrow.
Find it odd that the rear is stiffer on most of those. The stock ones sure look alot thinner than the fronts.
Wait, its still before 5:00 in hippy land. Call now.
so wutcha gonna do with the coils that are on there now?
I was thinkin about the ebay.
They'd work good on somethin that's light on the ass end.
I know someone with a vehicle like that...
free delivery to CS?
yeah... mid january
you've got four joints left over as well, don't you?
he should, no watts linkage. remember, he expects you to only want to pay half of what he asks. thats how the pollock works.
that's how the Eric works too, but I think I would be happier with a joint that comes with a threaded post anyway
Tsc:)
not quite that cheap
Not selling any joints. Not sure what I want for the coils. I traded a pair of d60 hubs for 2 pair of coils.
hey kopecki, i hear colorado is nice this time of year.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-J...spagenameZWDVW
So I finally got to looking at jeep and found some damage from katemcy I suppose. The steering has been kinda really ****ty. The steering box mount is broken, and the high steer arm moves. The high steer arm is easy enough to fix, just needs 4, 1/2" studs and lug nuts like the stock setup is on the other side. And I guess I'll just copy the MORE steering box mount, maybe even move the box forward to match the axle location. I need a torch.
Jeep seems to run better with the new alternator.
I'd let you use mine, but I don't think you'd want to since it's propane :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I can use propane
Yesterday I got the brakes working good. I added 0.5" to the rod between the brake pedal and master cylinder which added about 2" to the brake pedal travel. So now the brakes work great. Except that the rear is locking up before the front but I think that has something to do with 65 psi in the rear tires. I tried that pressure to see what it did with tire chirp and the results were good. So now I have to put them back down to 20 or put on one of those adjustable proportioning valves.
Well I got to working on it today. First plan was to adjust the parking brake and make stuff look legal for inspection. Well in the make stuff look legal phase, I found that the ground wire from the battery to the body was not enough. I was getting a 0.1 volt drop across it. It was a 12 gauge wire which I'd think would be enough, untill I realized that the fans were grounded to the body. So I replaced that wire with an 8 gauge one, and grounded the fans to the block, and now have 0 volt drop. Then I drove it and the hesitation went away, and the idle is smoother.
So now that I had working brakes, parking brake, and improved running engine, I decided I should do something more as I was on a roll. So I'm in the process of replacing the power steering pump. Maybe Monday it'll be legal again.
Turns out those flexx joints or whatever people call them may be no good. Both of the ones in my lower links have distorted and cracked races after 2 uses. I ordered parts for my new front suspension today and went with real currie johnny joints. Summit sells them now for $40 each with a 1.25-12 stud welded on, however they do not sell threaded adapters or jam nuts for them. Also got 2 summit black max 3/4" rod ends for the panhard bar.
i dare you to make it look good.
I'll paint the links, maybe cut off the spring hangers. That's about as far as pretty gets before I get lazy.
i was referring to the welds :flipoff2:
The stuff from summit showed up today. The johnny joints do not look as impressive as the other ones did and do not come with the shank. I'd forgotten you have to press them together, think I will try a hammer first or be very careful with the ironworker if that doesn't work.
Well I didn't paint the pieces yet. It's dam hot outside, was 109 under the tree today. After a little setback from someone moving my jeep while the track bar wasn't connected, I am mostly done. I think it has slight jacking when the brakes are applied, much better than the diving of before. Haven't flexed it yet. Needs shocks. I think I'm gonna put some rear f-250 king ranch fx4 rancho shocks on it.
ah, a three link. i thought it was getting four up front too.
i was hoping for pics when i saw you posted.