you've got it built, now there's only one thing left to do........break it :gigem:
looks kick ass man!
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you've got it built, now there's only one thing left to do........break it :gigem:
looks kick ass man!
looks good and only 11 pages! good job!
now if you just learn how to drive it [/jerry]
that things got mad flex, yo. looks good!
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=4177&stc=1
puurrrdy. congrats on finishing in a timely manner. now....BREAK IT! :flipoff2:
saw it at Reed today...looks good
yeah im afraid to flex it at all cuz i dont want to BREAK IT, this things got to be me wheels for a while before i start abusing it again. Thanks though guys on compliments and maybe someday i will learn how to drive it! ;)
Way to make me look bad, ass. It's not easy doing the swap in a shop like mine. :flipoff2:
Look's real nice. Why wouldn't you ever do it again?
P.S. You made it through the hazing, then you did the swap, now you're golden. :beer:
But its easy to make you look bad nutz :flipoff2: . Hopefully I should be finishing up my hydro assist, as well as some minor welding this weekend, and my will be ready to wheel again (well other than the fact its not running, but that don't worry me). I mean come on nutz, I did a cab swap, tubed the damn thing out, as well as a lot of other ****, and I'm still gonna beat you. Get off that jetski and get back to work :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
Oh yeah, I did my SAS in my friend's gravel during the summer with just a torch and an old welder. Nothing like heat stroke, hangovers, and fire ants to make you never want to do a sas again
would that be the kinda shop that has a whole bunch of tools? :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
dont mention the word "tools" around nutz....you dont wanna open that can of worms. :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
It's not like he was even trying to make you look bad, and he did. To be honest, I thought Dillon was going to be a giant toolbag, a Chadnutz II if you will, but he has gained many a cool points with me during this thread. Good bull Dillon...Good Bull. Very nice swap. :beer:
Thanks alot guys again i appreciate all of the compliments! Does anybody know how to install gears precisely? Ive got the 4.56's with new carrier and install kit that i need to install in the rear. Drivin around with 3.31's aint much fun, about how to put my foot out and push it off. Thanks
saw it today looks good man, have you just not installed the driveshaft yet, or what, also you might think of making some kind of rock ring for your front diff since you dont have any protection for it.
mis-matched gears frick... read damnit
i didnt say put it in 4 wheel drive and drive a round in it did i tate, i said why isnt the front drive shaft on there.
why would he put it on if he would just have to take it off to change the gears... makes no sence to me to put it on
his front's already set up...the rear needs gears :flipoff2:
yeah i have to get a front driveshaft made yet or find a driveshaft for a grand waggy, im just worried about the rear gears for right now so it will be a little more drivable.
waggy driveshaft isn't the way to go.
Personally i'd go with a square tube shaft. You'll outflex any shaft out there...(unless you get one of those custom 10" slip shafts)
:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
The diff is more or less the pivot point of the suspension. You're not going to outflex a shaft if it's built correctly. I'm still using my stock front shaft with about 8" lift and I can't get it to come close to over-extending. Unless you jump a whole lot and your suspension bottoms out really hard your slip shaft probably isn't going to come out.
maybe when you have links or shackle in front, but when you move your spring hanger to the front I think it changes things
I forgot that he has shackles at the rear of the springs... but I still doubt that he is going to overextend a properly built driveshaft.
He has all the best ingredients for alot of slipp needing. Reverse shackles with arched springs, and front spring eyes higher than the back. When his goes down, it goes forward. When your's goes down, it goes back.
just keep one of your front tires on the ground at all times and you won't have a problem :flipoff2:
buy all-pro's kit and make one, they seem to hold up pretty good.
Just DON'T buy a high angle driveline shaft - Troy has had TWO seperate welds fail (during comps I might add) on the comp rig. I had one weld fail on my shaft from him. They should really learn how to weld over there...
i guess yall haven't seen the slip in a waggy shaft...not to mention part of the stock waggy shaft is about as big as round as a thumb.
Don't forget 1. where the shackles are 2. how flexy the front is gonna be 3. hes needing a longer front shaft than a jeep would
he's going to need at least 10" of slip. Custom or tube or whatever. When i was running a 6" chevy slip it would come out with no trouble at all.....
well great i dont know what to do for a front shaft now!!
square.
If you set it up to where you only see about 1" of slip and use the other 5"s you will be fine. There is no way 10"'s of slip will be used. I happen to have a 10" slip shaft and only use 3 to 4 inches on it. My spare is stock (4" slip) and works just fine as long as the length is just right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
pics of my shafts after I broke them both at Katemcy: (I had spares)
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle...albun31&page=2
actually with my chevy shaft at ride height, it would either show about 1/2" or fully in depending on how much the locked rear would load up. It slipped out very easily (in about 2 minutes) at alto. There were times that I stuck it back in by jacking up the front end.
I think it depends on how long the overall shaft is and the length of shackles. My shaft is 29 inches from joint to joint and it needs 10 inches of slip no doubt. For the rear, I only use about 3 inches of slip.
EDIT: and besides, why would u just have 1" showing? Everytime his truck will go over a speedbump it will bottom out. Thats what broke my cv at alto. The shaft and the suspension will fight during compression. He needs 8-10" of slip.
God your dumb scott :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
Yeah, what do you know anyway Scott?
Where's brandon when we need him? :)
for some odd reason the driveshafts on the chevsu only moved a 1/4'' no matter what. why is that scott? :flipoff2:
good geometry? :haha:
Probably had something to do with the fact that you had a 4-link, and wern't using leafs... I have a stock slip in on my 4-link too and don't use any of it...Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsu
1" showing should get you over a speed bump but won't survive if you jump it :flipoff2:
I bet I could screw up a 4link bad enough to need a long-travel driveshaft :)
so how do you determine yoke length? i thought the rule of thumb for a stock rear leaf spring is to have the shaft inside its yoke about half way at ride height. x - z = (1/2)x