I wonder how much better or worse it would be if you got all of the sand off of the body/ frame
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I wonder how much better or worse it would be if you got all of the sand off of the body/ frame
All the sand is off the body and frame. The frame is actually in imaculate condition, I was really suprised about how good a shape its in considering the body's rustyness. I knocked 95% of the dirt and sand out from under it and filled up 3 1/2 50 lb. feedsacks.
i used a come-along to get my carrier out
Mk well I havent made any progress on this thing since the begining of summer but I'd like to do some work on it during christmas break. Even though its a long way off I was thinking about my TBI conversion on the motor and came across this vendor on pirate.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290526
His prices are deffinately reasonable and not having to deal with the factory TBI harness would be nice.
Pulled the engine off the frame of this thing this weekend.
/blog
I see you're using my school of thought on building Jeeps.
"Meh, I'll get around to it."
Flem, what Bulltear oil pump were you refering to specifically? The only ones I am able to find are this basic kit;
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=109
and this espensive kit;
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=136
Since I finally live a reasonable distance from my shop I started working on this thing again. I?m going ground up, which means axles and suspension come first. I am running stock springs with a spring-over and intend to run 33x10.50 BFGs on the original alloy wheels. My original springs were hosed so I have Robbie?s originals which are in better shape but I?m still not sure I want to use them. I might buy brand new ones for each corner at this point. Rear axle will have a lunchbox locker. I might put one in the front too. I have an EZ-locker sitting on a shelf but I don?t remember which axle it?s for. I will be using the original upper shock mounts front and rear and will weld simple tabs onto the tubes for lower mounts. Here?s the current state of affairs;
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0149.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0158.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0159.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0160.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0161.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0162.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0168.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0170.jpg
The frame has some cracks on both ends of the front crossmember. There are three readily apparent around the powersteering box seen here
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0155.jpg
And a couple more on the opposite frame rail seen here
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0153.jpg
These will be ground out and welded. Are there any frame braces for this vintage besides the type that clamps to the lower part of the p/s box and bolts to the opposite frame rail?
My rearmost crossmember was FUBAR so off it came. I am on the fence about buying a replacement or just fabricating one from scratch. There was a triangular brace from the frame to the crossmember on the driver’s side but not the passenger side. Should there be one on both sides?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0156.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...p/IMG_0157.jpg
Sweet mag slots brah
upgraded box mount
fabricate rear crossmember / bumper all in one like I did. Just weld it on and never look back.
somthing like this
j.c. whitney has a good selection of stock replacement leaf springs.
was the triangle bracket bolt or weld on? 76 and newer (which have a very different frame) have bolt on gussets between the frame and rear crossmember.
I'd buy the replacement crossmember rather than stick boxed tube on the back That CJ5 has some potential to be nice / factoryish even with the spring over.
I'm sure you can make this. . . . http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=RBB1008
Slot mags tommy. and they are sweet, not bro.
Looks like a cool project Sharpe.
Eff JC Whitney. Turns out you know someone that controls pricing on things like OEM replacement springs and crossmembers. If you're going to be in DFW any time soon let me know and I'll set whatever you need aside. Or you can drop by and do some picking.
The brace was bolted on and looks factory. I'll probably fabricate the crossmember and add a couple of receiver tubes at the ends for a bumper feeder.
So after almost 10 years I've started putting it back together! I decided to fabricate my floor pans and a few other misc body panels from sheet metal because they're flatish. I'm in the middle of the driver's side floor and it's a little more work than anticipated. I had to bend a flange on one edge to spot weld to the rocker and roll a bit of a lip into the front to match the remaining factory floor. The fit isn't ideal but for my first try, it'll do.
Who needs a rotisserie??
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pso2wnctbr.jpg
Drivers floor
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pscam2hzj9.jpg
What I have to look forward to on the passenger side
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pspnneanrz.jpg
Updates:
Pretty much done with the passenger floor pan sans the bracing. The area where I had to fill in extra sheet metal from cutting the original panel too short warped a bit during welding due to me going too fast burning it in. I'm going to try to shrink it once I get my torch regulator fixed. So I moved on to the driver's rear corner for now. It isn't too rusty (with the exception of the outer body mount) but is super wrinkled beyond repair. Since this still has the general shape of the tub corner's wide radius bend I cut the replacement panel first and then used the existing body as a die for the bend radius. I wish the torch was working so I could stress-relieve the bend in the new panel but this will have to do for now. I just used my forearms to push down on the full length of the overhanging material, and it worked perfectly. My current hang up is the tailgate situation. My tub doesn't have one and I want to add it. I'd ideally like to find a donor vehicle to steal all this **** from but haven't come up with anything yet and it's crunch time. I'm leaning toward booty-fabbing the tub portion of the TG frame and just fabricating a tailgate from scratch since I'm not all that concerned with originality. I can't find any close up pics of the TG frame online so I'm going to have to look at my '50 M38A1 Willy's next time I head south and just wing it from there.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9jacbrvj.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3r9ikjuc.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psau3s4kws.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstnrwrit2.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psihtryj1w.jpg
Also need to figure out the most efficient way to remove burnt rubber from the rear wheel wells. This and the bent body mounts lead me to believe the PO liked to party. I don't really want to burn it off due to the smell and mess and the wire wheel is taking too damn long. Also need to order .023 wire rollers for my Miller 210. I was telling Ryno about warping the floor on the passenger side floor smd he recommended switching to .023 wire for all the sheet metal work. I bought the wire and tips planning on just running the current .030 liner but I didn't think about the damn rollers. Tried it tonight with the .023 wire running through the .030 rollers and it worked *ok*. I offset one of the rollers a bit which helped but I still need to get the .023 ones. They are $40, which sucks.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshbex2rxc.jpg
Finished forming the new corner and cut out the old one tonight. I'm probably going to cut the side marker light relief out of the old panel and reuse it. I may use a flush mount LED but I don't like how bright most of them are. I'll worry about it later.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psrls4jocj.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvzpnyayi.jpg
Looks good man.
I don't suppose you have a 360 or 401 you're looking to get rid of?
Progress is always good.
Put me first on the 401 list :)
Nein. All I've got are 258s these days.
Bought steel for the floor supports and tailgate surround today. Didn't really have a plan for the floor when I went to the steel yard. Looking at tube they actually had in stock, I decided on 1x2 and the lightest gauge they had was 14, which is what I got. I upgrayedded the brace layout due to ease of fabrication. I drilled holes and plug welded the floor panel to the braces in a vain attempt to avoid warping. This panel is warped as ****. Between butt welding the panels and the brace plug welds it's pretty FUBAR. It's the drivers floor so it won't get too much direct attention and the spray in bed liner should cover it pretty well but I'll know... For the passenger side I am going to try building the bracing first and then setting the panel on top before welding.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3ulz98yp.jpg
Wasn't someone looking for a 304?
This thread is the closest I could find.
http://www.lsjc.org/board/showthread...ler-YJ-2800obo
No one wants 304s. I want a 360 or 401.