think about what you just said...
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think about what you just said...
Here's what I did yesterday. Havent done anything today because of the weather but will buckle down tomorow. I shaved an inch off the bottom of the engine crossmember and plated it, and made some bump stop brackets. Also got the shock towers bolted on and the shocks installed. Went ahead and cleaned up the wiring as much as possible.
what'd you use for the bushings on your engine mounts?
1.5" poly spring bushings.
Got the motor most of the way back in today. After taking the motor off the engine stand and hoisting it in the air, I noticed the oil pan that I put on was different, much different. Different enough that it would not clear my engine crossmember. FAWK!! Had to replace it with original pan, and it took a whole lot of wiggling just to get the motor connected to the tranny, I didnt even get the motor mount bolts in. Tomorow's gonna be a loonnggggg day.
I found out the "different" oil pan was from a hummer so thats why it wouldnt fit. Anyway, today I got alot done. I got the motor 100% in and hooked up. Only thing left to do is coolant and a little bracket to mate the tranny shifter cable to the tranny. I bought the shifter used and it didnt come with the bracket. I've made two different ones, and neither was the right length from the pivot point on the tranny to the pivot point on the end of the cable, so they wont shift into all the gears. The passenger side door now opens too. I got my power steering cooler hooked up, for some reason this was the most exciting part of my day. It fit like it was made for the truck (it might have been, I found it in the bed of a truck at Gordons). I also replaced the solenoid on the starter, and put a new radiator in. I might make it to 47 tomorow, we'll see how much I can get done in the morning and if it actually starts like a good mother****ing piece of ****.
Today, I didnt do much. I got my aftermarket gauges installed. They came from a parts truck in case you're wondering. After that, I built a rack to mount my ammo can and high lift jack over the gas tank, and leave the space between the tank and spare tire for an icechest.
2 gauge sizes smaller than the wire its protecting. Never seen fusible links rated to fail at a specified amperage.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
No way.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
so have you actually started it yet?
hahaha, hell no he hasnt. Busy worrying about mounting the high lift and ammo can instead of doing something that might actually mean the difference from being able to take it to clayton or not :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco
what about you? You're going, right? Everything ready?
did you notch your floor so you can get it into 4wd as well yet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
just have to put the spool in tomorrow and rewire my rocklights
Got the floor chopped today and all the loose crap tied up. Mario came over and gave me a hand with the hood, as well as mounting my spare tire. Using nothing more than my truck, a piece of pipe and a piece of rebar mario was able to remove the old 10 ply 31 and put on the new 38. It was rather impressive. I also cranked it a little. Didnt start quite yet but tried to a few times. The batteries were dead so they're chargin now. Here's pics.
You try starting fluid? You're probably gonna need some in clayton even if you do get it starting good here.
Starting fluid bad for diesel! I've actually heard it isnt that bad as long as you dont use the glowplugs, but if you use it and the glowplugs, cracked pistons, bent pushrods and all kinds of other carnage can result. My glowplugs are all new so they work, I think my fuel system still has air in it and my motor doesnt have very good compression.
Yeeeeeaaaaaah, that's a real bad idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
A very very conservative amount of starting fluid will not hurt. I stress conservative!
If it was bad I'd have killed something by now. Or I would know somebody that had killed one by now. Remove that warning sticker and it'll be OK. Or you can put a rag over the intake and drip gasoline onto it, but the starting fluid works better.
Well I dont have to do any of that crap now. I bled the fuel system and there was alot of air in the injector lines. I bled them while just cranking the engine, then bled them with the engine running and as far as I can tell, all cylinders are in good working order. It still vibrates a bit but its probably just the poly bushing motor mounts. I let it run for about 20 minutes and drove it around, engine runs good and the tranny kinda shifts now. I ended up hooking the vacuum pump directly to the vacuum modulater on the tranny. It shifts really soft but I'll order an adjustable modulator after clayton. The now tranny cooler/formerly engine oil cooler aparently had a little oil left in it, I checked the tranny fluid level and it left black streaks on the towel so I guess I'll change the fluid tomorow. I wish my pan had a damn drain plug. Only problem really is that it doesnt turn all the way to the left, because the draglink is too long. It can turn right like a mofo though. A few more little things tomorow and we'll be good to go.
You can get a drainplug kit at any auto parts store. I have one on dodge transmission.
Is it a weld on bung and a plug? Can I do it with a MIG?
You drill a hole, then install plug housing thing. No welding.
Ok cool thanks.
sounds good, and it is running too
Where did you pickup that ammo box? Also, if you order one of those isolators, let me know. I still need to get one. I'll order with you.
A gun show. Ok, we'll see. Garret just told me he has an isolator I can have so I'm gonna try that and if it doesnt work I'll probably order one of those.
I think I may have seen one that size the last time I was at the army surplus store near campus. If not, rugged outfitters normally has a few of the larger onesQuote:
Originally Posted by davido
Ok in my grand sceme to make pigpen street legal, the biggest obstacle is going to be mouting tail lights and the rear license plate. The license plate needs to have a light on it, which is another obstacle. The biggest problem is mounting everything so that it wont get damaged on the back of pigpen on the trail. I Was thinking, pount the tail light and license plate assembly on a removeable rack that I can slide into the rear receiver hitch for street driving, and remove it once I get to the trail so it doesnt get damaged. What do yall think?
if I were you I'd wait a couple days and see how the Ugly truck does it. I hear that guy's got something cool in mind :D
I was going to say ask Eric, or go hot rod style and french them in to your cab. Stacy just did a "How to French Your License Plate into your Tailgate" on Trucks last weekend. That would be fly. :D The other option is just to mount them inside the frame rail. Run some steel on the top and bottom to box it in a little if you think it's necessary.
I thought about mounting the lights on the back of the cab but I dont know how visible they'de be to beercan cars. I am using a set of lights off a parts truck that are like the factory TJ ones. I would just mount them like Eric, but my spare tire takes up the entire area on the back part of the frame. One way or the other the license plate is probably gonna have to be mounted on the receiver hitch though.
welcome to teh suck of trying to figure out how to carry a spare on a short vehicle while maintaining your visibility
you should bungee cord some stock corner lights to the spare :D
hey ive got you a free vacum modulator thingy
Mount the plate in the middle of the tire.
zip tie it to the frame... it is how i have mine on my bronco... and i have no advice for the lights
use trailer lights. one of them will even have a mount and light for a license plate.
Free my ass, and its adjustableQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
ok rowdy says $10