Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
thats the cone. i was talking about the kingpin cap on the bottom.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
thats the cone. i was talking about the kingpin cap on the bottom.
I gots that allen wrench... if you need to disassemble the cone bring it over, I've got the perfect two trees to hold it.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
One of my buddies has 2 multipliers, maybe those could work.
Never seen one before last night when I was rumaging around in his shop, hell never even heard of one, but they looked badarse.
Are you talkin about the 1" multipliers, then yes they are super bad arse. We use them on trackhoe turn tables and dozer undercarriages. The one we used to have quadrupled the torque, and we would still put an 8 or 9 foot cheater on it.
Yea, it was weird. He had two, the first one was slightly smaller, I think 1/2" in and something a little larger out? Then the other one was about 50% wider and had the same larger size in, then the 1" out. Both of them multiplied by 4, so if using both, you get 16x the torque :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
He told me he priced them a few years back and couldnt find one of quality like his for less than $2200. I tried to slip one into the cabinet I stole from him....
I just saw some when lookin for torque wrenches for cox, and that is about right on the price. May be able to get them off the snap-on truck a little cheaper if you are a "good" customer.
do you have pics of this thing you speak of?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalogQuote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
While we are on the subject of axles, what center do the hummers use. I know where one is sitting, and was thinking of going to get it and tear it apart for informational purposes.
I don't know if its true or not, but I heard they use AMC20 centers.
should I run a locker in the back, or weld it? I had planned on welding it, but I keep reading that a welded rear and a link suspension causes alot of handling issues.
And as far as lockers go, does anyone know much about whats available for the D70? I have found lockrights, detriots, and selectable lockers like ARB. Right now I'm trying to figure something out about the D70. It appears that there are 2 versions available for the 35 spline shafts, one is a full case, the other is like a 14 bolt detriot and reuses the old case. The only thing I can't find info on is if you can only use certian ones in certian D70s, or if its your choice on which one you want to use.
this is true the only difference is the gears are heat treated differently, I was told this by a hummer tech while I was pickin' parts up for ours. that makes me wonder, the alpha had a selectable locker option wonder what it is, an e-locker like the h2's or a arb type deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
Would they be using reverse cut gears due to the portals?
I didn't notice any funny handling issues when I linked the rear. I did notice that the tires did more of a squeal in turns instead of the chirping with the leafs.
reverse cut has nothing to do with the rotation, the pinion is still on the same side and rotates the same direction( except in this app. where the whole thing is flipped putting the pinion on the opposite side) , It should be called reverse spiral, it is the opposite angle of the gear mesh making the tow side the drive side instead of the heal side like in most low pinion fronts.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
you mean the coast side is actually the coast side and the drive side is actually the drive side?
coast and drive are relative to which end f/r right?, heal toe seems more fitting but yes if you wanna look at it like that
the concave side is always called the coast side and the convex side is the drive. toe and heel refer to the inside (ID of the ring gear) and outside(OD of the ring gear) of the tooth respectively. root and top land are the top and bottom of the tooth as viewed from a profile view of the tooth itself.
way to snake his thread ed....Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
now back on topic, yay tubing
You see, I am learning something. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
i dont see why this isnt a good choice. they're stronger than a d44 and with the portal boxes, they arent seeing that much torque.
Not to mention they are not seeing that much abuse from the 6.2/6.5 and auto setups either. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
okay, enough with the thread snaking, especially for something with no relevance to my thread
IWOKS!!!!!!!! :flipoff2:
youse gotz them
not yet, but unless something goes wrong they be mine
okay, I need to collect some stuff from the parts stores. Where do we have hook ups again? I need some 1 ton TREs, as well as some brake parts for the rear disc setup and some brakelines. Where would be the cheapest place to get this from?
go to ADVANCE
I need stuff too. Would online be cheaper with split shipping?
Who turns rotors for cheap?
well ****, the part number I gave for the chevy spring bushings earlier in this thread isn't worth a ****. It shows a full set of bushings in the picture (springs and shackles), and even says shackle bushing is included, but all it is is 2 sets of bushings, instead of the 6 I was expecting. I should have ordered the jeep bushings, at least I would have gotten more for my money
so, does anyone want to do a group order for some stuff from summit? I still need a few more sets of bushings, so I'm gonna have to make another order
finally found some new seats for the 4runner. I'll get pics of them once they're mounted and my camera decides to behave
side note here. The closets in the efficiency apartments at plantation oaks can easily store four 40 inch IROKS plus two toyota doors with room to spare
My seats are mounted, I built the front spring hanger and have most of the stuff I need collected or on order. All I need to pick up are the little stuff from the parts store for my rear discs and steering, and a set of spacers for the front axle. If the adapter shows up in time, I hope to put the reduction part of my dual case setup together over dead days. If I get the rest of my parts in time, I plan on starting the SAS on the 22nd. I still need to buy or borrow a torch. Or I may look into what it would cost to rent a plasma cutter from a equipment rental place. Last week I took the chance on one of those harbor freight porta bands, and I got to say I am very impressed. It made short work of building my front hanger, which is all 3/16 and 1/4 thick tubing
BTW, here is a cool 4runner buildup that is basically mirroring what I have planned for my 4runner. I was planning on cutting the rear of the 4runner off similar to the way he did his (page 7), and after seeing for sure what it looks like, I'm gonna go for it. I'll just need to talk someone like creighton into welding up the sheetmetal for me
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=501518
Okay here are my final plans for the 4runner as it sits now. The SAS should start the 22nd.
Front axle - 88 Dodge D60 kingpin, 6.16s, open for now, superwinch hubs for the street, drive flanges for the hard stuff
Rear axle - Ford D70B (35 spline), 6.16s, disc brakes , welded diff
Steering - Crossover (krebs built arm, 1 ton TREs, 1.5x.25 wall tubing), home built hydro assist using surplus center ram modified for heims, stock steering box with 1 ton TRE pitman arm insert
Driveshafts - square tube toy front, CV toy rear heavy wall tubing, custom flanges, full set of spares
Front suspension - SAS, custom hanger, stock rear springs mixed with waggy springs, Bilstsien 5125s
Rear Suspension - Ford F150 springs, custom hanger, Bilstien 5125s
Drivetrain - stock toy engine and tranny, dual cases (MC07) , 126 to 1 crawl ratio
Tires/wheels - 39.5x13.5x17 bias IROKs, H2 wheels
Other - custom t-case crossmember based off of this , front wheel spacers, Chevy master cylinder with toy booster, 2 inch body lift , 2 inch drivetrain lift, 2 inch gas tank lift (hope to move tank eventually), nearly flat belly
one thing I still need to figure out is how to set up my rear suspension. I'm gonna use some F150 springs. My current springs are 48" long with a offset center pin (front 20.5"/rear 27.5"). The F150s are 57" (front 25.5"/31.5" rear).
So if I flipped them with the short side to the rear and used my stock shackle hanger and a new front hanger, I would gain 2 inches of wheelbase by my math. This combined with my front axle forward 4 inches would give me a 109 inch wheelbase. But the offset would cause interference with the body, and most likely require extensive cutting, or even outright chopping the rear off (think comp cut). There would also be alot less sheetmetal to leave behind on the trail, and allow me to keep the rig lower slung. While this sounds cool, it also seems like alot of work, and makes it much harder to seal the rear area up in bad weather. An example of what I'm thinking http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...1&d=1164418164
Or I could build new shackle hangers as well, and center them in the wheelwell, keeping the amount of cutting down somewhat, and allow me to keep the hardtop, or at least make it easier to seal the truck from the elements. So what do I do?
Different springs.
Are you buying the center piece for the xmember from fror or are you going to get it made?
Huh?Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I just bought the FROR center plate since it probally would have been a headache to make and was only 50 bucks with hardware
Something with about that same length as the long side of the stock springs. Isn't there a 56" chevy spring that's centered?
Leaf springs suck anyway. Just build 2 antiwarp bars and a trac bar and set some curly springs between the axle and frame.
curly springs can wait until I'm not on a timeline and broke. As for using other springs, why? I got the F150 springs for dirt cheap, they look like they will flex well, and actually decrease my departure angle, no matter how I mount them. The chevy springs may be centered, but what good does that do me? I still have to build all new mounts for them, plus they have more rear over hang