I see you decided to skip bending tube? :laughing:
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I see you decided to skip bending tube? :laughing:
just for the front stuff, i wont get anything done on my cage till i get my hands on a bender. do you have a 1.75 die yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I like the look of it with no bends. go look at any pre-runner truck and they are almost always done like that if triagulated properly it can be much stronger than with bendsQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I like it looks sweet, have you decided how you are going to do the hood
i just cut it, i liked your idea but i just wanted to get something on there, ill find another hood later and try out that way
i am going to wire up the lights tomorow, i plan to wire them in to the stock harness so i can use the stock switch, in doing this will i still need to use a relay?
i wouldnt think so
Yes use a relay the lights will be brighter and the switch will last longer.
x2
agreed.
Wow never seen so much agreeing on on page before
If there is an OEM switch, there should be a relay. Use the stock switch - otherwise, buy a good switch and no relay:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Nope, no relay from the factory.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
i got some work done today, when i started it up i realized i had a big leak in my oil cooler, will i need to replace this or can i just bypass it?
engine oil?
yeah, i dont think i need it but i just want to make sureQuote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
personally i would try to fix it just to be sure, cheap insurance
i am thinking that i dont need it cause some chevys have them and some dont, i think it is part of some sort of tow package or something like that, which is why i dont think i need it
For a wheelin rig you dont need it IMO. They are meant more for trucks that tow. You might be lucky and the cooler will be easy to remove via the adapter between the oil filter and the block. On my 8.1, the cooler fittings are threaded directly into the block so I just have a hose looped between the two.
If it's not an easy fix, you won't need it.
after i got the oil cooler off i think i am just going to loop it up by where the cooler was and worry about taking the lines off some time later(maybe when i have to rebuild the motor, hopefully not soon)
i got the new cross member done and installed, hopefully i wont break this one. now i just need to finish the torque arm for the 205, fill fluids, install my front shocks, and lengthen my front drive shaft
Thats a nice looking bend!:flipoff2:
I rule!
thanks again for helping me out with thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
so i just got in my stealth conversions vss adapter, but i need to know which wire on my blazers wiring harness to hook it up to, the wires that went to the old vss were purple with white line and green with black line, are either of these an ecm ground? if so then i am set otherwise i will need to find an ecm ground
i am thinking of getting some new rims for the blazer, my tires are 13.5 wide, would it be a bad idea to run them on an 8 inch wide rim? i found a set cheap but i think it might be better to get a 10 inch wide rim, what do yall think?
edit: currently i am running stock gm steel 16 inch rims, i think they are 6.75 wide.
On the skinnier rim they'll wear funny if you do too much street driving but it will be much more difficult to blow a bead. If you are not going with beadlocks I'd deffinately go with the narrower wheels.
i think his plans are internals like stauns and there is no street driving except like from clayton to the trail
Does staun list any specs that would dictate the width of rim that can be safely used? If so, just stick with that. The 8" wides should be just fine with those tires, but you were already burping air at times with the 6.75s so you may have to up your pressure until you get the staun's in.
SBLNC166: Suit 16 in rim x 6-6.5 in wide
SBLNC1679: Suit 16 in rim x 7-9 in wide
SBLNC169.510: Suit 16 in rim x 9.5-10 in wide
SBLNC161112: Suit 16 in rim x 11-12 in wide
Looks like they offer a couple of different models in the 16" variety. Guess you need to figure out what rim you want to ultimately run before you drop coin on these.
so i need to put on a few new gauges, but i want them to match the ones i already have in the garage waiting to be installed, so does anyone know if i can run a water temp gauge as a trans temp gauge?
I have an autometer tranny gauge. What type of gauge are you looking for?
As long as the temp range is similar I would think so.
im not sure exactly what they are, but i know they arent auto meter, after looking around the water temp and the trans temp gauges use the same sending unit, so i dont see why i couldnt use the water temp gauge for a trans temp gauge
so i have been looking for beadlocks for some time now and came across these, do yall think they will hold up to wheeling hard?
here
I'd think so.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Heck, AL double beadlocks for $800, unmolested factory stuff - I'd be willing to bet they would hold up - would have to be built to mil-spec.
they are bad arse rims we put a set on our h1 they took a pretty good beating after the factory ones had already givin' up. I thought the military still used 16.5's and that is what we had on them. we also had to grind the **** out of the center bore to fit, but I checked one of my ford front hubs and it lined up perfect.
The HMMWV's do still run 16.5's on all of them I have seen here. They do have a new tread pattern I would like to check out though. I didn't read the guys reviews, but if what he says is true, then they should be a good rim. Do EET!!!
What shocks are you planning on running?
i already have them, the same as i have in the rear, bilstein somethings