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Thanks guys.
I'm going to leave the cowl alone. The main reason I made those panels was to clean up the holes in the rockers as well as the initial comp cut I made a year and a half ago.
The panels for the drivers side are on plus the bed panels are in. My last big order of parts came in yesterday and I picked up all the fuel fittings I need. It will be done by the end of the summer for sure.
With some time off work I'm beginning an allout wrenchfest to get it going.
Pics.
Cut and tapered the stock steering shaft to fit the PSC u-joint/shaft which I drilled/tapped for removal with 1/4 20 hardware.
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Cool! Where'd you get the tilt wheel setup?
same one I have, I believe.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...-1-c-1379.html
I bought the tilt column from PSC.
Looks great so far Robbie, at least until you paint it some gay color again. ;)
Thanks, don't worry there will be no more grave digger colors. I'm set on the light blue and silver paint scheme.
Silver Bullet. I like it, smooth AND refreshing.
Dropped off driveshaft parts/measurements at Houston Driveshaft, should be done tomorrow. Changed out steering wheel quick release to the PSC one and painted stuff while I was at it. Hooked up tie rod/drag link. Drilled out steering box, used my grandad's drill press from the 1940's. Worked on running fuel lines and plumbing.
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That motah looks mean in there. I haven't seen an old atlas like that since I was a kid the machine shop my grandad worked at. -pimp-
The last few days out in the shop have been way hot during the day so I've started working on it at night when it's cooler.
Pulled the saginaw box completely apart, tapped it, and got it back together without losing any ball bearings. Getting them back inside the worm gear/piston wasn't too bad. Steering and hydro assist is all hooked up. Did some more work on the 383.
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I am interested to see how you like those heims. When the ram pushes and pulls, my tierod likes to flop (like the yellow arrows in the picture below) back and forth and cause the jam nuts to loosen and end up getting things in a bind if you don't stop and check it every once and a while. I have TRE's on mine and they allow for a lot of rotational movement. I have tried everything except tacking the jam nut to the tierod. I have used big wrenches and put some 'patented Big Ed torque' on 'em to no avail. :(
That's why it's a good idea to mount the ram parrallel to the tie rod.
I don't have any good pictures of mine, but it is closer to parallel than robbie's.
Captain Obvious to the rescue!!!:flipoff2: Mine is as parallel as possible, still has rotated it once. I just tightened the **** out of it, hasn't been that bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
ed's is Parallel to maybe 5 degrees about parallel but the TRE's just allow for two much flex.
Looks great Robbie but I could swear that you watched me build Ed's dash, there is a striking similarity
Picked up the new crawl mag and the Ballistic steering arms are pimp. This rig needs a set of those.
tighten the jam nuts. **** wont rotate
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
Hello, McFly....
You been reading long??? :rolleyes:
i don't waste my time with reading ****Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
yes, with all the upgrading, patching and just general webmastering you do, I am sure you have very little of it.... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
:blackflipoff2:
i kno2 im lazy
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
i was just bustin your big drunk balls...
:flipoff2:
I do what I can :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
What I did do on mine was rotate one TRE as far as it would go one way, and the opposite side the other way so it would minimize the movement before I cranked the jamnuts down. (Does that make sense?)
yes, makes perfect sense. I think I tried to do that but it was in the middle of the trail and it had been a long day so I don't think I got it exactly right. 40 more days and I will let you know how it goes. :gigem:
Driveshaft's are in. Made all the fuel lines and mounted the cell. Had to change over to an electric fuel pump due to motor mount clearance issues with the mechanical one. Moved the steering shaft through the firewall to clear the ps pump. Mounted the trans shifter. Working on mounting brake pedal assembly and running lines.
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those shifters look "different" than Sharpe's...
Mine mo betta.
The trans shifter is a B&M street rod. Had to modify the mounting plate to fit the 4wd th350 but it turned out nicely.
hurry up and get this thing running. Jk, looks good
Built the radiator mounts and fuel cell safety straps, added adhesive rubber weatherstripping on the insides to keep from scratching up the cell and radiator. Made the fuel filter mount and finished modifying the last fuel line for the electric fp.
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Radiator mounted, fuel pump mounted, fuel lines run, battery box in.
More radiator mount tabs
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any reason your running an electric water pump?
horsepower baby
I don't know if I'd put one on an offroad rig unless I had a backup pump to carry with me. I know on my camaro the electric water pump bit me in the ass once. Took it on the '03 Power Tour and after the radiator exploded and had to change it in a casino parking lot in Louisiana, I kept having issues with the pump blowing the fuse randomly. Well, I made it all the way back to Texas on the second fuse and thought nothing of it really. Just thought maybe it had overheated the pump when there wasn't any coolant in the system. Well, the next weekend I went out to Arlington to help a buddy work on his camaro and on the way back it took out the fuse and then after I tried to jumper the fuse holder to get home it took out the relay. That's when I knew the jig was up. So here I am, broke down in South Arlington in a pretty rough looking area of town with the sun going down. Not exactly the best place to be. Luckily I talked St.John into coming and getting me with the trailer and he got there before the Canadians that had been circling were able to do anything. Got the car home, took the pump off to find the seal between the impeller shaft and the motor went and the electric motor was full of water. I bought another CSR pump and was able to send that one in for a rebuild that cost like $75 and now I carry a spare in the trunk.
Really, they work great at keeping things cooled off, but definitely consider a spare.
That would be my biggest concern, its not like you can walk into the auto parts store and pick up an electric pump like you could with any mechanical pumpQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
looks sweet but I have to agree on the electric water pump being an area of worry. I have seen way to many fail on race cars that get very little run time.
Not to seem like I'm being critical, but why did you run the fuel lines like that? It looks like there is a spot in that body crossmember that they could easily pass through and be completely out of the way. I would also look into those rubber coated clamp hangers that you attach by using sheetmetal screws into the frame to support the lines as they run along the frame rail.