I have a 27 spline np 203 input if that helps.
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I have a 27 spline np 203 input if that helps.
So I have an '86 Ford 460 with the good ole Duraspark Version 2 on it. The other day it would not start, so I check fuel, spark and no spark. So, go through wires, cap, distributor and I find the "magic box" is bad. I get one from O'reilly's for $26, replace it and everything is good. My question is this, what makes these boxes go out? I ask because when I found where the magic box was, there were 2 of them. Apparently the original went out and rather than remove it, they just bolted the new one next to it, that went out on me. Seems like a repeat problem for this vehicle. Ideas?
Was there a puddle of melted wax down the fenderwell below it? Usually heat kills them when it melts that wax-like stuff and exposes the electronics to moisture.
was the ballast resistor gone? the transistor that charges the - post on the coil overheats and thats what makes it puke the potting compound. without the resistor the amperage is way up.
Every time my truck has broken down, it has been the fault of the duraspark ignition module.
So I'm going to purchase Juniors HP30. Since it has locking hubs, I won't mind running an auto locker. (although if I had the money, I would still want an ARB)
He said the R/P and diff have over 200k miles and have been sitting for two years. When I have it re-geared should I go a head and put in a full case like a Detroit? Or will I be fine with an Aussie with the stock carrier? I suppose I won't really know until I pull the diff cover and see?
pretty sure the carrier doesn't suffer any wear unless the pinion make whoopie with it.
You sure he doesn't have a posi in that axle? Last time I saw it did...you'd have to get a different carrier anyway (which he probably has laying around anyway ;) )
The carrier is not a wearable part just the carrier bearings which you should replace anyway. Buy a complete install kit, r/p, and locker of your choice and hand it to them, then walk away. It should be that easy.
some good time killers, since cody's box is now unreadable
http://www.calibratedsuccess.com/Ass...%20Article.pdf
http://www.datafan.com/bimotion/2stroketheory.html
What is the axle tube diameter on a ford 9"? I think it is 3" or 3.125" tube diameter. Anyone know? I bet BDR does.
3.25" maybe? I really have no idea. Maybe I can get sofia to go out and measure.
Ha! Measure my 9" that's funny. Just thought I would say it before someone else did. Ha!
I don't remember off hand, but it's something just a little over 3". I can check mine tomorrow.
Thanks BDR that would be cool. I need new spring plates to replace the stock ones so I can redrill the plates 1". Ballistic Fab is having a sale. The reasoning behind the question.
My housings all measure a hair over 3.25 in. tube dia.
This forum has been way to gay lately, lets add some off-roading tech.
So yukon as a company has gotten a bad rap in the last few years for having poor quality stuff. Pirate4x4TV went out to Yukon's plant and looked at their manufacturing facilities as well as did a case study of d-44 shaft ftlb of torque failure test. It is some pretty impressive ****, I was gonna buy yukon stuff anyway because of price but now I know that it is NOT crap. They beat out all the competitors on the standard chromolly axle shaft failure test. Here is the video, give it a watch. http://pirate4x4.com/tv/live12.php
Because it is not possible that pirate was receiving a kick back, or that Yukon didn't rig it and uses a better quality shafts than typical production for the test?
I'll stick with Superior, who I have never heard negative things about.
I always had great luck with yukon
i ran yukon in my 9"... they were great... but i am a superior user now
Chromoly is old technology, all the cool kids run indiamoly!!
http://www.durasolid.com/
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...kon+shaft+test
This thread has some good info in it about the data collected during those tests.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1284660220
It is pointed out during that thread that you have to keep in mind deflection before yield rather just looking at the ultimate strength the shafts. I like the combination of alot of deflection and a good torque rating that the ten factory shafts had.
Anybody know anything about using military take off tires for DD? I looked on a few sites about it and I only saw a few people talk about it, but nobody give any info on how they wear or how long they last.
If they're the bias ply ones they are cheap to get but will flat spot if they sit too long. Offroad perfromance is mediocre. Danny has been running them on his green truck for a couple of years and likes em well enough. The later model radials are gtg though. Prety much better in all regards.
Two things that suck about military tires.
If you are wanting to use them on your f-150. There is only one company making a 16.5 inch wheel for five lug. Also the only style the have in it is the cheesy chrome mod.
The next suck is that the 36x12.5x16.5 only measure about 33 1/2" tall. For reference a new hummer 36 was the same height as my half tread 315 bfg all terrain. Oh and they are pretty crappy wheeling tires.
I have a set of 36" in my back yard, just looking for something for on the road since I can't keep my 15" rims once I got one tons.
My friend Jack ran them on his 79 F150. 3" body 4" suspension lift. They were the 36" Goodyear military's.
Offroad performance was decent, but he really only used them for mudding.
On the street, they wear nicely, but as others have said, make sure you get the radials.
I need to order some poly fab bushings for my doubler crossmember skid. It seems everyone is using the premade ones that use the .250 wall tube and a grease zerk in the sleeve. I don't really see the point in paying the extra 5-8 bucks a bushing to get a zerk, none of the factory bushings on a truck have zerks. Especially because there will be very little movement in the bushings once installed. Thoughts?
Also, anybody know the cheapest place that I can just get the poly bushing with the inner bolt sleeve?
Get the ones without a zerk and if it becomes a problem, then put a zerk on there.
http://fittingsandadapters.com/14inpipthrea.html
f the zerk, grease it when you put it togehter and forget about it, there is plenty other crap on there that make noise
here is a bunch of options for ya:
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=133
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=130
http://shop.jeeptubes.com/product.sc...&categoryId=10
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl;jsess...2&category=215
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store...h-Bushing.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...eve-p-148.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...ent-p-420.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...ing-p-154.html
http://bluetorchfab.com/store/produc...roducts_id=127
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ng_p_1196.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ve_p_1197.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ve_p_1453.html
this is what i have used: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EXP-69261/
Really good source of u-joint identification.
http://www.drive-lines.com/ujs/uj_view.php?bycup=25