The F350 springs are 24/28". Would have to move brackets to make chevy 52s work, or rig up some offset u-bolt plate to move it forward 2". I did that in the rear, but only for 1".
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The F350 springs are 24/28". Would have to move brackets to make chevy 52s work, or rig up some offset u-bolt plate to move it forward 2". I did that in the rear, but only for 1".
88+ Chevy rear springs are the 63" that I was going to use on the Taco, I think the Suburbans in those years used shorter springs
I was really just wanted a quick fix to lift it a few inches. The quickest way would be to buy 4" lift springs for a 87-96 F350, which per 4WPW, are not cheap. Going to flexy 52s means moving the rear hangar and if I do that, I want to move it up into the frame.....more time, more fab blah blah. Not sure what I will do now. Just want it ready for K rocks or CO now.
The motor is back in. Mostly back together. I need to pick up an new alternator bracket from a junkyard maybe tomorrow. Old one is cracked pretty good. Maybe try and fire her up tomorrow night.
After that, I need to winch the tie rod back straight, then figure out the hydro assist I have been needing to do for 6 years
I have the motor all back together. I have fuel and spark, but it will not fire. Turns over all day. Stopped for the night, will hit it again tomorrow.
how is your ignition module? also are you sure you are tdc for cyl 1, maybe 180 out or just got the spark plug wire 1 hole over on the dist. whats your fuel pressure at. sometimes after pumps sit for a while sometimes they die. just saying
It has enough to start for sure. At first I wasn't getting fuel out of the high pressure frame rail pump, but was from the intank. I basically took it off, tested it and put it back on and now I have pressure up to the fuel rail.
Having it 180 out is a possibility. #1 is up. It was pushing my thumb up as I turned the crank.
The place where I ground the block might have been painted over...i need to check that, but I do not think that is keeping it from running.
Are you sure you have fuel? Do you know the injectors are firing? To check this you have to remove an injector or use noid lights.
On the klogger my injectors were not getting power because a relay was bad.
It was 180 out. It started right up and we got the timing set. Had an exhaust leak, fixed that....then had loud noise from rockers. Pulled the drivers side apart. I think I tightend them too tight. When I pulled them off just now, some of the pushrods were stuck to the rockers. Not looking forward to restting all the valves.
do you have roller rockers?
I got it back together and I do not think it is making the noise anymore. Now the pretty much new water pump is pumping water out the weep hole. I think I hate this thing.
New water pump on today. No leaks yet. It still makes a weird noise occasionally. I think I have a bad lifter. **** it. Checked the new oil with maybe an hour on it. It was grey. **** it. Changed oil with some 20w50 and some lucas. Not going to check oil any more. **** it.
With the use of a ZJ, a strap, a chain and the F150 winch, the tie rod is semi straight again, so the new GLO diff cover went on. Tunes are sorta working. Trans shifts, but slowly. Need to make sure my hubs still engage and are not completely rusted. Ready for K Rocks.
I like your attitude:gigem:
I havent updated in awhile. The transmission now shifts like it should. Trans Specialties fixed it. The oil looks fine too. No leaks that I have seen yet. It has been in its resting place under a barn in La Grange until last week. Started right up. Greg has it in Magnolia fabbing up the trans crossmember to clear the front driveshaft. It has always needed some modification, but somehow I have just always gotten away with it.
I would like to get bigger tires on it by Clayton. I am thinking either 39"Iroks or 38" SXs. No 40"+ club for now. An H1 wheel rebuild is also in order.