I use the chevy bushing kit from 4wheel parts. It comes with 4 bushings and only costs around $20. I use 1.75x.120 dom for the sleeve..... I can look for the part # when I get home if you are interested.
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I use the chevy bushing kit from 4wheel parts. It comes with 4 bushings and only costs around $20. I use 1.75x.120 dom for the sleeve..... I can look for the part # when I get home if you are interested.
Ignition coil went out on my truck, is it worth it to spend more on a performance unit than the stock replacement unit?
Stock.
stock, **** msd
I got an accell that drops in the factory spot, no msd box or anything. some folks seem to like them for the common timing bump.
Depends on how good the stock unit was. I'm assuming it alright by everyone's reaction.
It's a completely stock and somewhat tired engine so I'm going with a stock replacement. I'm not doing anything on the engine until it goes out completely and then it's probably getting a 351
theres noise coming from my rear end. :angry:
bout 95% sure its the pinion bearing. how much does that cost to get fixed, what would cause it to go out so early and how long can i still drive on it?
Pinion bearings are something you can replace yourself. Hardest part will be getting the old bearing off the gear end of the pinion. A 3-jaw puller may do it, or a real bearing puller will work. You should be able to get either from loan-a-tool at your favorite parts store. Sometimes I end up using a grinder. Usually they go out from water in the oil, also could be lack of oil, or just bad luck. Probably about $50 to do it yourself, or about $300 at a shop. Keep track of the pinion bearing shims, they need to go back where they came from.
thanks for the info i appreciate it
how long do you think it will last? ive pit bout 500 on it so far with the noise. i also just changed the diff fluid to see if it would quiet down but it didnt. so the fluid is fresh
If this is a daily drive fix it immediately or you will be needing a whole new rear end. Also, disconnect the driveshaft from the yoke and see if it wobbles any to make sure this is the problem.
What axle is it? If it is an 8.8, nine inch, or sterling with stock ratio I would just go find another axle for $100 bucks and save lots of work.
You sure it just isn't a ujoint?
If its making enough noise to hear at highway speed, your gears are probably ****ed. The carrier bearings on my DD crewcab went out (14 bolt FF) and the gears ate themselves as a result. Cost $700 out the door to get done the same day at J&P standard transmission on 21. I could have set them myself but getting it done that day and the piece of mind was worth the cost.
im pretty sure thats what it is. theres no play in the u joints at all. the wired thing is its in my silverado. which is an 06. would the lift cause this to happen prematurely?
if its in the silverado I would have it done at a shop because they usually have some sort of guarantee.
how many miles? most likely water in the diff
78,000
Interesting side note story on pinon bearings:
Mother has a 2008 dodge nitro for her work vehicle, she has put 90k miles on it sense buying it new in late 2008. She complained to me about a high pitch whining that increased with speed a few weeks ago. Told her to do some tests changing the transmission into different gears, different speeds. Deducted that it was coming from the rear end, either stuck caliper, bad wheel bearing, or pinion/carrier bearings. She takes it to the dealership last week because she has full warranty on drive-train until 100k. Without hearing what I had said they took the same steps, changed the pads, no luck, checked the wheel bearings, no luck. Then they got the bright idea to check the fluid. . . extremely low fluid from a leaking pinion seal which ate the bearings. Lucky she didn't have a catastrophic failure. Dodge is lazy and instead of wasting time on rebuilding it just unbolted the rear end and slapped in a brand new unit. End of blog.
dammit. . .:(
Damn it
wheres the damn bait....
It is probably cheaper to bolt in a whole new axle versus the labor and parts to set up new gears
After a decade or so of hard use, my Ranch Hand rear bumper had seen better days. It is a 10" drop or so and had a bolt on receiver hitch that was warped as **** from hanging too much weight off of it. That warpage plus the play between the frame holes and bumper brackets made the ball sag 2-3" total when a loaded trailer was attached. Seeing as trailer plus Pigpen weights 7-8k, I decided something needed to be done about it. I started by ditching the old receiver tube completely. The base was too bent to **** and the pin hole was wallowed out so I just got a virgin steel receiver tube from Custom Fab and welded the ****er straight to the bumper, as seen heah.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...8/IMG_0943.jpg
Then I built two frame braces that went from the bottom of the bumper up to the frame a couple feet in front of the bumper. Since the bumper hangs down so low, this triangulation made it solid as a rock. To level the bumper out during brace construction, I put a piece of square tube in the new receiver and jacked it up until it was a couple degrees above level (to allow everything to settle in after final instalation. There's about an inch of clearance on either side of the spare tire and I use existing holes in the frame to bolt the top of the braces in.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...8/IMG_0940.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...8/IMG_0942.jpg
With the loaded trailer on it now, it does not sag at all. Whoop.
With the ford dual piston calipers up front and gm in the rear now what upgrades do i need to the booster/master cylinder? part numbers or links if you got em
thanks
tate
Quit postin and start driving beyotch....
I got Mason tonight and tomorrow night. and am headed out into the garage in a bit after i get some parts ordered... only 9 weeks and a lot of work left
Where is a good place to learn about NP231/D300 doublers? Is there anything besides trying to weave through the B.S. on Pirate?
creighton has it in his heep
98-01 Dodge 1500, 2500, 3500 Brake master cylinder. Should work with stock TJ booster.
FWIW:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373571
post 55 has some good info