I know we have some ford 9" gurus here:
Questions: Can you get a 1350 yoke for the stock pinion support? What is the benefit of an aftermarket pinion support (say Daytona) versus the stock one?
Thanks
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I know we have some ford 9" gurus here:
Questions: Can you get a 1350 yoke for the stock pinion support? What is the benefit of an aftermarket pinion support (say Daytona) versus the stock one?
Thanks
i don't think they have different pinion seal ID's - so therefore, a 1350 yoke should fit a stock support.
I have billet 1350 yokes on both rigs with Daytona style supports.:gigem:
daytona front support takes a larger bearing
Anybody know of a place that sells hockey pucks in CS? I checked Academy and Wally-World.
A kid that worked at Academy asked "What do you want hokey pucks in Texas for?"
(using them for bump stop extensions)
try the ice rink
x2
What is going on here?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=1356+doubler
Is this just the front half of a 1356 bolted to another complete 1356? With only adding about 1/2" of overall length? Or am I confused?
nvm, adds 8 7/8"
would be an easy doubler if it didnt require new trans crossmember, skid, and driveshafts.
That is outstanding and just like big foot!Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
huh?
im sure there is a way to modify your existing cross member to make it work
The 1356 doubler is like big foot. Seems like it would exist, you can find photos on the internet, but until now no one has seen one in real life!
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=36477
This kit is double the price but it is meant for a 205, and you dont have to shift the rails out of the fawking rear of the case.
Topic: Combating antiwrap in a leaf sprung axle
There are a few ways to do this:
1) Anti-wrap bar - Requires some mild fab, people seem to have an issue with tabs and mounting systems ripping off or shearing. I think this is the most effective way to combat anti-wrap, Cost once you buy heims or bushings and some tube is probably around $100 and 4 hours of work.
2) Anti-wrap leaf - Alcan Spring can make an "add-a-leaf" with a military wrap around the spring eye. So flex would be equivalent if not a little better than a full add-a-leaf. Surprisingly the guy from Alcan said it would only be $40 per spring, but you have to ship your existing spring there and have him ship back, so cost would probably be around $130 per set. I think these would control wrap better than a full length anti-wrap
3) Full length "Add-a-leafs" - Superlift and others offer them. The full length leaf decreases flex some, but not as much as a short add a leaf. It also provides a little lift and cost is low ($80), probably cheaper than a anti-wrap bar, but not as effective
4) Cut the eyes off of another main leaf and make your own full length "add-a-leaf" - Ghetto, but I have heard this is effective, price could be cheap to free depending on your pile of spare parts
5) "Bend Clips" - The things wrapped around a pack of leaf springs. I think these help by tieing all the springs together, but I also think they limit flex.
6) Anti-wrap/extended leaf spring mounts - I have zero experience with this and question if they would even work? You guys? Cost is cheap, but somewhat harder to install
So what are you guys comments about these? I listed the above in order of effectiveness in my mind (so 1 is most effective, 6 is least). I ask because I am thinking of going with an anti-wrap bar and some sort of extra wrap inhibiting leaf in the pack.
you forgot the 4-link... I'm sure Kolpecki will chime in...
just run an anti-wrap bar and call it done. If you actually have decent fabricating skills and design it tight, you won't rip it off...
All of that other stuff will limit flexability and won't be as effective.
Those leaf clips don't do a damn thing for wrap.
There are a few pics of Lyndas on here:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...t=6982&page=27
Anti-wrap bar. Easy. This was the first mount I've broken off, so not a bad track record. Use tractor heims for optimal performance. :D
I meant to post, keep your damn coil spring stuff out, I am limiting this conversation to leafs.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
What did you do about wrap on the front axle?Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
nothing yet - it was on the list for this trip and the last one, never got done. I need to do it, just don't like messing with it since nothing has broken yet...Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I run a full length add-a-leaf in the rear and have ZERO axle wrap issues. This leaf is simply combined with stock Ford 3" wide springs. I do not 'flex' as much as many people do, but I find it to be sufficient This lack of 'flex' has not been a huge issue anywhere that I have wheeled.
It has seemed to me that one of the most common breaks on the trails and headaches in the garage have been anti-wrap bar related, thus I choose to not have one.
I agree that they seem to break, but several people have no issue with them. In the front an anti-wrap bar is more difficult since there is more going on up there. Seems like there are a few steps to combat most of the common breaks:Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
1) Weld the ever living dog **** out of it to the axle
2) Use decent size/quality tube, with 2 bars a framed all the way up to the attachment point for the bar
3) Make ladders that connect the A-Frame
Any opinions on heim'd ends vs. bushing? Heim's would allow for a little less tolerance on the holes being drilled since you can screw and unscrew them from the tube.
Thoughts?
I have an anti-wrap bar as well as the longer spring perches on the rear and have no had issues (besides antiwrap bar crossmember bending which was no fault of the bar or it's effectiveness on combating wrap, just poor judgment on my part on where to mount it). My spring perches in the front are the standard 4" long, in the rear I doubled them to be 8" long. In theory this makes sense to me that it would help to stop the spring from inverting as easily and was a cheap and easy option when installing my rear.
Use bushings at the axle end and a johnny joint at the frame end of the anti-wrap bar. I used the ruff stuff kit and it was about $75 for the bushings, tubes and brackets, which was a quick and easy way to ensure that everything was appropriately sized and measured. Pics are in my build thread.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=342
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=350
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=376
X2Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
After shearing the upper threaded shank (bushing style rod end) mounted to the axle I'm switching to spherical rod ends like this.http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1626.html
Another for the anti-wrap bar. Mine work great, and the one up front that we were worried about at first (and everyone still says it is not supposed to work like that, yet it does...) does a great job and hasn't limited flex at all from what I can tell.
I've never had noticable axle wrap issues on either axle. My rear springs are stock packs with a few leafs removed, but they still have a bit of arch to them at ride height. My fronts have a 2" short add-a-leaf and have very little arch at ride height. The front has pinion angle issues though, due to the shackle being on the rear side of the spring and the height relationship of the front and rear hangers.
Why not shims between the leaf and spring pad? These made my pinion angle perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I have 7 degree shims. At ride heights its ok but when the passenger side droops, **** gets crazy.
My bronco had the same issue in combination to bad wrap in the front. Take a look at Cook's trac bar, even though he may not wheel it often he does have a good amount of torque, big tires, lots of traction, combine that with a love of burnouts, it goes to so using the right materials and good construction you shouldnt have an issue with a antiwrap bar
I like the mil wrap so you are trying to bend 2 leafs instead of one, toyotas have this, you don't see bent leaf springs on toyotas. Keep the little clip things so the springs stay lined up under eachother. You still need to have an antiwrap bar that doesn't rip off, I would put bushings at the axle and heim at the shackle. A lot of work to keep leaf springs.
Are the edelbrock small block chevy tbi intakes worth a damn assuming you are using a stock cam and throttle body?
Since your Chevy TBI does not have a mass air sensor, I would say that without a chip or something that edelbrock intake would not do crap for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Are super duty 60s worth a damn? Found a matching f/r pair for 900.
Super duty 60's have ball joints, instead of king pins. I would say for 900 that is not a good deal. My opinion, a ball joint 60 is worth about $600 to $700, if complete.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
The 05+ ones have 35 spline stubs, and they're set up for the right kind of suspension.
The cold weather has once again brought up a persistent nagging problem my tahoe has had since I bought it. In the winter, it takes forever to warm up, and when it does, it gets nowhere near the normal operating temp of 200 degrees. Every winter it will trip a P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem. I have replaced the thermostat three winters in a row and the coolant temp sensor as well. It's almost like the cooling system is working too well. I can drive it around for an hour in stop and go traffic and it won't get above 160 degrees. It has a 186 degree (factory temp) thermostat in it. Everything in the cooling system is stock. I'm too the point where I just want to put some cardboard in front of part of the radiator, but that's ****ing ghetto. Anybody ran into anything like this before?
Ive got a chevy factory radiator block off thingy you could use. My truck doesn't get about 180 ish when it is cold
My truck feels more powerful when it is cold. I like it. The heated seats and steering wheel make life easier too. As well as the remote start to let it warm up. Before I get out to it.
Oh and my old suburban would never warm up to regular temp even after long drives when it was cold
http://image.minyanville.com/assets/...1281717615.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
:flipoff2: