Thanks for the advice. Did you eat a lot of paint chips as a child?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
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Thanks for the advice. Did you eat a lot of paint chips as a child?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Tater doesn't have the 'insulation' that some of us do,....
What about sticking a 210 thermostat in there? Have you checked your existing thermo to see what the actual temp is that it opens?
They only offer a 186 degree thermo for these trucks. I think there are a couple companies that offer lower temp ones for when you put a blower on them and stuff, but I haven't seen anywhere that offers a higher temp one. Plus, I would have to reprogram it if I change the temp range, or it would also trip the p0166 code.
I'm thinking about putting the '05-06 tahoe electric fans on it and seeing if that helps. If the fans aren't on, then maybe it will actually warm up. It would definitely help in the summertime as well, keeping the a/c at meat locker temp even when it's 100+ in stop and go traffic.
Yeah, I would rather be a bit chilled in the winter than be sweatin my fat ass off in the summer while I was riding around.
Well, it still sucks having a vehicle from 2002 that won't heat up when I have one from 1974 with a heater that will melt your legs off.
Do the electric fans, or do a radiator baffle. If cardboard is too "ghetto" for you then build you a nice one from sheet metal. Maybe lexan/polycarbonate may be an option? Use cardboard to experiment till you find the right amount of blockage, then make the non ghetto one. The baffle would be easier, and really it doesn't get this cold that often...
What're the laws in Texas about removing smog stuff and cats? If I redo the exhaust do I have to have the same number of cats or can I just have one?
The 'law' is going to require you to put it back to stock. What your exhaust guy will let you get away with is another story.
Some places will let you bring it in with out the exhaust and will put anything you want on it as long as they don't have to cut the cat off.
But since Bexar county is a non emissions county, nobody would know if I disconnected my smog pump and threw it away right? I just want to start simplifying stuff on my truck so if some stupid part that I don't even use breaks on my truck it won't keep me from wheeling or driving for that matter.
Will taking emissions stuff off your truck throw codes? If your o2 sensors are after your cat, then removing your cat will make it run like ****.
O2 is before both cats.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
ok nvm thenQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Ditch the ghey ass smog pump. On chevies, when smog pumps were in use, they werent even on every truck. It was not split by tonnage or anything either. I have no idea what criteria they used for that faggotry. Depending on how strict the visual inspection is in your area, you can probably get away with no cats as well. At the very least gut them :gigem:
Only every person who reads or this public forum.:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
It's a federal law btw that says you can't tamper with emissions equipment, not a state law.
have you posted on the "smart" forums yet? seems pretty strange. Could a bad tranny temp sensor cause the fans to come on?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
God I wish I was you, you are so cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
I'm not 100% sure what you're saying, but it currently has a large mechanical fan and clutch on it. I haven't posted on any of the truck forums yet, but that's the next step. I just hate posting on those because the "Tates" far outweigh the good answers on those forums.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
My screwcab would not get above ~150 this morning but I'm not above wedging a piece of cardboard in front of the grill. :D It just so happens I still have a ****-ton of boxes from the move too :gigem:
pot-kettle? maybe a little at least?Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
haha, I bet someone just forgot to add the tamor salute at the end of that post.
I am that cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
8000 gallons of vinegar.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
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Originally Posted by Seth
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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
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Originally Posted by FJAggie07
Oh and :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
:D
Well yeah, it was 20 degrees or so this morning with a wind chill of about 6. I kind of expect that on mornings like today, but it does this at anything lower than 50 degrees. One interesting thing I noticed this morning was that after it got "warm" (170-175), I left it idling while I ran into Oreilly's to pick up a switch. When I came out, it had cooled off to 165. So it runs warmer with cold ass air being forced through the radiator?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
sparling, i wouldnt mess with the smop pump or any of that crap on your truck, in my experience and many others, fords run like dick when you take that crap off due to the vacuum crap and the FI
Is it possible to get some pretty serious hesitation/stuttering under light acceleration and not throw a misfire code? It completly feels like the overdrive is crapping out again, but trans shop says its a misfire. No codes and its been doing it for several months now. A coil would for sure throw a code, but what about a bad injector?
5.4 3v in my truck.
burned valve?
mine has been doing this too, but it throws the code, i believe mine has to do with me needing to change the spark plugs, but i am not motivated to do itQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
also try running a can or 2 of seafoam in it
Would it help at all to get a one ton clutch master cylinder vs. just getting a half ton one or does it have to match the trans or does it not really matter much?
Clutch master and slave cylinders need to match. That being said on a Ford like yours I am pretty sure the 1/2 ton to 1 ton clutch setup is the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
There's a 97 explorer with a 5.0, is it worth going back to pull the intake or heads?
I would say no, The big advantage in my opinion of the explorer fuel injection is it is mass air and some have the GT40 heads. To change the mass air, you would have to change the entire wiring harness.
distributorless too. and the intake is sexy looking
Coil packs are neat until one goes out.....Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
sixth post from the bottom mentions a "steady bearing" that goes in the camshaft hole. What is it talking about? I assume that's not the real name since when I searched, all I came up with was concrete mixers.
http://adventureoffroad.ca/phpBB3_1/...c1e10&start=15
Damn beat me too it
They don't call me quick draw McGraw for nothin....
(well, there is that other thing, but we agreed to not talk about that in public. )
So to add to what Ed posted, when you do your swap from auto to manual, you will have to get a new fly wheel, it has to be one for a 302 (351's are different). This will have a hole in the center of it. With the flywheel bolted to the engine, you will put a pilot bearing in the hole. The input shaft of the transmission has a smaller diameter turned down on the very tip of it, this fits into the pilot bearing and just reduces vibration and stuff. O'reilly's will have your pilot bearing, so I would not go to Novak. The for a modern 302 should be a needle bearing style one. I would apply a little grease on install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Let me know if that clears it up for you or if you have any other questions.