Meh, not diggin it. I like the parrallel bent bar corner like Chris's Taco.
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Meh, not diggin it. I like the parrallel bent bar corner like Chris's Taco.
So I'm thinking about my front end situation right now as well. The 56" front spring swap pushed my axle forward a few inches which gained me some firewall clearance but fubar'd my steering. It has worked well enough for awhile but I am rethinking it right now. Here is how it is currently situated.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ntsteering.jpg
Due to the axle being pushed forward, it puts the tube almost directly below where the draglink attaches to the pitman. I'm not sure what effect the angle of the draglink in relation to the axle has on performance, but it doesnt seem like it is good. I also still have low steer and even my 1 1/2" 3/8 wall tierod is bent from bashing on stuff.
Here is what I would like to do.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ersteering.jpg
Reverse swinging steering boxes can be sourced from Chevy astro vans. In order for the pitman to fit around the leaf spring, the front hanger would need to be moved down and forward a bit, which incidentally would also bring the axle forward a few more inches. This is good. This would keep the pitman and draglink up and hopefully provide a moderate level of protection. Moving it forward another few inches will also help ensure that I have adequate clearance under the oilpan for a rear mounted tie-rod. Since I'm at it I might as well do hydro assist.
I agree with the hippie on the b hoop neeiding a little more bracing, seems it has very little side load bracing in that pic, only what the runners going to the rear provide. (not much) I would pur in a diagonal, or what hippie has in his drawing (an 'A') or at the very least, a straight across bar, like a dash bar.
heres an idea for your tube work
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...=743401&page=2
That looks like balls.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
...perfect for Pigpen! :flipoff2:
Here's a fun problem. I am trying to make my factory engine temperature gauge from Pigpen's original 84 chevy cluster work with my '02 8.1. While it originally had a carb'd motor with, AFAIK, 1 temp sensor for the gauge, TBI motors had two sensors. One was mounted on the intake manifold next to the thermostat and it was a variable resistance unit that had two wires, one of which was a 5 volt power supply. This one kept the puter happy. GM has used this sensor on every fuel injected motor they have made until 2002.
The other was for the gauge located in the same place as any other chevy engine I've ever seen, on the driver's side head. This one has one wire and is otherwise physically identical to the intake one, but I have no idea how it works. I cant find **** for specs on this sensor and no parts stores seem to carry it. Since the pipe plug on my driver's side head is frozen in place I made a nice and ghetto pipe T-fitting to install the sensor in the heater line between the radiator and intake. I stole the one wire sensor off my suburban and put it in the T-fitting but it would not register on the gauge. I know the T-fitting is grounded via voltmeter test but beyond that I am stumped.
know for a fact both the sending unit and guage are working?
Pigpen's not gonna make it to TCC :mad:
what are you showing us? That huge crack in your new tranny? WTF? I thought this just happened?
x2 ???
strikingly similar to page 47?
i attribute this to the fact that you dont match motor mounts and tranny mounts material
You know Sharpe, this is not pretty kickass all the way around.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
This vehicle is cursed!
take that gray thing sitting in your back yard
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006