Ive got a 4l80E ill sell ya cheap
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Ive got a 4l80E ill sell ya cheap
details on the 4l80e?
came out of a 1998 chevy 2500 4wd
Since my current TH400 only has around 50,000 miles on it I am thinking about just fixing it. The area where the crack is has nothing inside of it there besides the output tailshaft, so disassembling any clutches or complicated **** wont be necesary. The tentative plan is to pull it, have Clarke mig the crack back together, replace the trans mount with a poly one and re-tube the rear shaft to hopefully make it straighter. Hopefully I didnt fubar the part of the CV that goes inside the driveshaft tube too much. I'm thinking while I have it out I might swap a 32 spline front output into the 205 so I can get a High Angle output flange and run a 1350 CV on the front. I have still yet to blow up a stock CV on Pigpen but I did blow one up in a parts truck once and it took out the tranny so I would like to do as much as possible to limit that risk. I might get a new rear shaft made and run my current rear CV on the front with a square tube shaft until I can afford a fancy long travel one. Lots of thinking and work to do.
isn't that case alluminum?
get doug to TIG weld it for you, it will be alot stronger
i agree
Is your tcase just hanging off the back, behind the tranny mount, or is it otherwise supported in some way? Does anybody make a tcase mount that bolts to one of the output covers on a 205, like the FROR mount for yotas?
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...erskid-019.jpg
205's have two threaded holes on the passenger side for a frame brace but I think in my case that would only make things worse. Maybe not though.
it is really tuff to weld those cases, be prepared to be there a little while. being covered in oil inside and out makes it weld like shiat so grind and clean the crap out of it. I've welded bellhousing tabs(2 on the same case) back on with success but I doubt a tailshaft housing will stay together.
I'm not really sure where they think I'm getting an AC tig welder from either?:confused:
I think you would have much better luck with a tig. I use lots of carb cleaner and I sand the shiat out of the area (well past the weld zone w/coarse sandpaper) then I clean again with thinner. to insure no contaminaits you need to do the same to the inside surfaces aswell. weld slow, the AC will pull the improperties out, but you have to add lots of rod quickly to not blow the piece away. can't remember the rod I used but I still have some and can look if you need.
brake clean works a better than carb clean, or hose it down with some castrol super clean, let it sit then spray it off with water
I don't think it matters what the first couple stages are...he is finishing with acetone