This would be a valid point if it were his only mode of transportation and responsible for towing his ranger to alto
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Ya jeeps are rice too!
Maybe I had too many garage beers last night.
All I did today purple power it down, fix a pinched vaccuum line, and topped off the trans and radiator. Drove it now and seems fine.
The sender is directly over the oil filter right? DUmb, but I unplugged it and plugged it back in and now it is back to reading somewhat accurate
I drained a little oil, and it was not obvious that there was water in it. Seemed fine.
And yes, that big line is an AC drain line. Kinda in a bad spot, but I can cut it a little shorter.
Need to change the title of this thread to Rice-a-roni....
The Jeep did great at DSO, even in the heat. I still am having an issue with the shifter even with the AA bracket. I need to figure that out.
The sway bar hits the PSC inner fenders. I can easily cut them, but what should I do about the sway bar? That sounds like the gayest Jeep questiom ever, but should I really just buy disconnects? Or just unbolt it when wheeling?:rainbow:
What about this setup?
*chromos/detroit in rear 44
*chromos/selectable in Rubicon front 44 (or RCVs;))
*2" coil lift with decent shocks (5100s)
*get skid up high
*some sort of better/adjustable arms
*SYE
*Atlas
*bling driveshafts
*35s
*cut rear fenders
*cage
*wheel piss out of it.
Going for less down time, highway/backroad drivability, ease of repair, simplicity.
The hardest trail it will see will be Clayton. I want to take it to Colorado, Moab, Fordyce, Rubicon, but seriously, Clayton probably has the hardest trails.
I have disconnects sitting in my shop ill let go for cheap
I wouldn't hesitate to drive it on the street with 37's.
This is what I would do
-superduty axles
-Make some radius arms for the front
-4 link rear with artec truss
-comp cut with rear body guards
-105 ish wheelbase
-Detroits rear, Arb Front and 4.56's
-Trailready or raceline beadlocks with 37" toyo's or Maxis trepadors
-Fox 2" coilovers, You can find them used all day long on race-dezert
-Air bumps
-Most competitive rigs don't have a ton of up travel so that they can keep it low. Evan's jeep only has like 3 or 4 inches of up travel and gains all of his flex in droop. That's why a rear truss won't get in the way too much. Might have to re- locate the fuel tank.
-Bling driveshafts
-Flat belly skid, I'm sure there's some beat off jeep uhmw skid
-Whatever gay ass t-case tate has
-cage
-tunes
-fuzzy dice
-keep the a/c
-winch
-wheel said piss
But that's me and I like to make things hard on myself.
Don't forget the Wicked Wheel!
Attachment 19485
Jk turn signals. Pulled the fenders back off to repaint black
I got some 35x12.5x15 KM2s. The front looks great and it only seems to rub on the sway bar. The rear armor panels are in SA and I am going to bring them back with me next week and get them on. Problem in the rear is that the tire is very close on the front side to the tub. For my trip in a few weeks, I probably need to just do a spacer lift and mayeb some new shoks. RE spacers and new shocks run $240 so not too bad.
I still need to clean up the hood and paint it.
I have the old 33s for sale if anyone needs a spare. I think Taylor has dibs on two of them.
That new windshield washer RestoMod ( :flipoff3: Fred ) is Rice-A-Roni!!!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/9epadu2e.jpg
Got the rears on last week and 2" spacers today
The front axle naturally moves over to the drivers side slightly. Is this easily fixed by drilling g new hole in lower bracket?
I'd go adjustable track bar. If you go higher or lower later you can adjust it in or out instead of welding up holes and trying to drill them out straight every time.
Drilling works but tends to oval out over time and require welding. I would go adjustable too
I would agree that an adjustable would be better
Is the problem that you are more than likely not going to drill a perfect hole through both pieces, thus it will wallow out?