The Napa/machine shop in bryan told me $35 a head to clean, and check for cracks. I thought that was a damn good price, so if your saying $100 is a good deal, maybe they miss quoted me.:confused:
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The Napa/machine shop in bryan told me $35 a head to clean, and check for cracks. I thought that was a damn good price, so if your saying $100 is a good deal, maybe they miss quoted me.:confused:
are you serious? those guys are pathetic. I don't think they have the sense to poor piss out of a boot, much less redo a set of heads. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
The Napa/machine shop in bryan told me $35 a head to clean, and check for cracks. I thought that was a damn good price, so if your saying $100 is a good deal, maybe they miss quoted me.:confused:
The NAPA in Bryan sucks. Stay away from them. They messed up some axle shafts for Troy. When Scott to the Toy engine there to get cleaned and bored they gave it back to him all finished but some how did not notice that one of the cylinders had a long crack init.
I have had good luck with Mark at NAPA machine. I think the key is talking to him and staying with in their relm of experiance, i.e. V8's. Sorry to here Scott had a bad experiance, but i have had problems with Villas also.
Word to the wise, both can probably do the job, but they are only as good as the high school drop out they have working for them. Good employies are hard to find and make all the difference.
The only shop I trust fully is Eaker Performance. They are a little more, but they are perfectionists. Talk to Johnathan and tell him I sent you. they don't do their own machine work, but they sent it to a reputable shop and check it ont he way out and in. It will be right when you get it back.
I talked to Johnathan at Eaker, he said they send all their machining work to either Vilas or Harrison machine shop, all they would do at Eaker is pull them off, which i plan on doing. Tried to call Harrison but no answer. Compression test today.
there you go. you still need to doa leak down to fing out what the real problem is.
Where is Eaker Performance?
Phone book says:
2210 Maloney Av.
Bryan
Well...if its a stuck/burnt valve, last time i checked, the valves are in the heads...am i missing something? Basically....its hopefull thinking that its not the piston, rings or block. And they told me $250 at the most for both.Quote:
Originally posted by eight
Why do you think the problem is in the heads?
$350 to rebuild both heads seems pretty good to me.
This kinda goes along with what you're thinkin' i think Ryan, this is off of the www.ford-trucks.com forum:
"I had a '93 with the same problem on a road trip. I thought it was a burnt valve also. I blew a hole in the on the outside edge of the piston just above the rings. The piece fell down into the cylinder & scored the hell out of it. Long story short, needed a new short block."
:( :( :(
That's exactly what I'm thinking.
A burnt or stuck valve can NOT pressurize the crankcase.
Hey ryan i am gonna have to disagree with you on that one. A valve can cause that to happen. The valve seals could be worn out and blow by coming threw the vavle seal. They would put the pressure right into the valve cover area. And my old motor used to blow oil out of the valve cover breather. it leaked more oil out the valve cover than it burned.
My original thoughts were similar to what Mike is describing...valve stuck open causing the compression stroke to compress the entire valve cover, and since the breather tube comes out on the side i believed there to be a bad valve, it would just be pushing the oil that lubes the upper head out that breather, and also could be compressing down the runners that lead up to the top of the head.
BUT...
I did the compression test today with the help of Seth, Kate, and Landon stopped by on his way to class to run his mouth :D Here were the results:
#1 - 149 psi
#2 - 173
#3 - 161
#4 - 159
#5 - 35
#6 - 169
#7 - 165
#8 - 179
Adding a little oil to #5 then retesting compression brought it up to 58 or so. Bad ring? Can anyone let me borrow a compressor and valves i could do a leak down test on before I start to pull the head? Anyone got a driveway they dont need for a little while i could possibly borrow?
How much clearance do you think there would have to be between the valve stem and the guide to allow that much air to get by? It's only a few thousanths of an inch and the pressure is just exhaust pressure, not combustion pressure. I doubt enough could get by so that the pcv system could not handle it.
There should not be a problem even if there are no seals on the exhaust valves. Intake valve seals keep oil from being sucked into the head. Exhaust valve seals keep oil from leaking into the head. Those rubber seals are not intended to seal against hot exhaust gases. I rebuilt 2 honda atvs and they don't even have exhaust valve seals.
How does the pressure get into the valve cover area? There are passages for the oil pumped into the heads to drain back into the crankcase. Crankcase pressure goes up through them and out the pcv valve or the breather. Mike probably had a fair amount of blow-by from worn rings.
And what would any of this have to do with a valve being burnt or stuck?
I'm probably thinking wrong on how the valves are put together and work then. I see my mistake now though. I was thinking that the valves have openings into the top of the head but now realize that they just go to the ports, which, like you said, goes back into the intake or out the exhaust. What do you think of my test results?