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honestly, i don't have 25 cents right now. I'll have to drop by the bank. Then that'll make me drop by the gas station....then i'll want to eat out....then i'll end up buying beer for all my friends...then i'll end up getting drunk....and i'll miss my test tomorrow.
I'll buy em when bling bling allows.
I told you you could use my orange permatex crap. Maybe not intended for water but I bet it'll get the job done.
thats cool...i bought some sealant that i can use for my valve covers too and i also bought the little gaskets.
Today i reconnected the tq converter and repositioned the t-case and bolted that down to the crossmember. Reconnected driveshaft. Tomorrow morning maybe i'll fix the water pump and put my power steering pump back into use and drive it somewhere to fill it with water.
Then all i'll have to do is the front axle, air filter, seats, and radio....
ok its running and driving...but not very far.
I'll save the story for another day. My alternator isn't kickin juice. I'm thinking i might have hooked it on wrong or something happened to it...but i need help remembering.
Alright....theres 2 prongs that face up as you look into the engine. Theres the post on the back.
From what i remember...The left prong (as you look into the engine) is low-charge. That goes to acc. I have it wired to my fuse block.
The right prong is hi-charge. Friend of mine back home told me to loop it from there over to my 1-wire post.
Back post accepts wire from the right prong.....and also has a thick wire that goes to the positive terminal on the battery.
The negative battery terminal has a small wire to ground that goes to the body and the big wire goes to the alternator bracket.
Do i have this wrong? What could be the problem? I've always had it hooked up like this. Maybe my alternator took a crap....where can i take the alternator to get it tested? Do i need to bring the vehicle, or just the alternator? Also, how does the whole electrical system work? Why does the engine need to be grounded? where does it ground to?
why is the sky blue? why does the wind blow? where to babies come from?Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
all simple questions with complex answers.
to have everything properly grounded you need to have the engine grounded to the frame, the frame grounded to the body, and the body grounded to the engine. this is to keep the loop closed for [negative] current to pass thru everything so that stuff like self grounding solenoids, switches, and sensors will always be grounded in theory back to the battery.
you can take the whole truck to any parts store and they can test the alternator. its easier to test yourself by testing the voltage in the battery w/ the truck off...then seeing if the voltage increases when its running. off should be 11.5-12V and running should be 13.5-14.5V. i've fixed mine a couple times when it wasnt charging by beating on it w/ a hammer or wrench.
I hooked it up wrong. Shes good.
Thanks for the clarification Austin...i never knew what was grounded to what.
bought some 4.10s off pirate. I'll put em in during spring break and i'll be back in a wheelin' state.
mounted seats today. Cleaned out everything. Beat firewall in some more to give my distro a bit more room. Made a new driveshaft. Replaced tranny filter/fluid to some kind of synthetic stuff my dad decided to start selling called Schaeffer.
Friend said he would **CORRECTLY** install my gears next week.
That is all.
somehow i was talked into putting a 14 bolt under my truck....so i guess now im putting a 14 bolt in.
would anyone like to help me put this big bastard in?
i'll be in cs from sat around noon until this coming wednesday or thursday. im willing to lend a hand and hopefully learn some stuff as i go. give me a call if you want me to lend ya a hand. 214.475.1563. this computer is in richardson, and its a desktop, so its not coming with me.
im down for getting dirty and having a few beers, im sure will would be in too when he gets back from bernie
give me a call when you need some help 492 3164
I'll be back in CS on Sunday, call me if you need some help 830-965-2416
sounds good. Anyone have 8 lug wheels/tires that i can use as rollers for a bit?
weeeellll...change in plans.
I looked at it and decided right now wouldn't be a good time to do the swap. I'll be planning on dropping the truck about 4" up front and 3" in the back.
Front is gonna get a new hanger. My front hanger has 5" of drop (way too much...but thats what u get when you build **** when you're 15) Hopefully i can get it to about 2.75" of drop or as small as possible pretty much.
Of course i have zero wobble as it is right now, so im gonna keep the caster as same as possible so im gonna be frenching the shackle hangers into the frame the same measurement up as the front hanger ~2.5". Then if i need the truck to be shorter, i can get about 1.5" on my front perches.
the rear is gonna lose the 2.5" blocks and the 1" overload and im gonna cut and turn the axle.
The reason im dropping the truck is mostly because of my driveline angles. If i drop the passenger front tire in a hole, my driveshaft binds and will break the u-joint/yoke since its got so much damn droop.
In the rear, if i droop alot, the 1310 yoke on the t-case will bind since them damn chevys can't run at hardly any angle. Hopefully this will cut down on how unstable the truck is at angles and will cut down on how fast my u-joints go.
good plan
isn't there a place you can grind a chebby cv to make it work at better angles?