Hey, want to give up one of those boggers? I need a spare and one of those skinny boggers would work well for thatQuote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
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Hey, want to give up one of those boggers? I need a spare and one of those skinny boggers would work well for thatQuote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
search michelin xml. or xl. they have 11 inch wide for 20s that are over 40 inches tall. also a 36-38 inch tall taire that runs a 16" wheel. 9.00-16 is the size. i cant remeber hieights exactly.
I would spend the money at the Tcase gearing, not the axles. Weld the axles and spend that money on doubler/underdrive. Maybe I missed where you've already done that, but there are a lot of things I would buy before lockers, especially any locker other than a Detroit or ARB (ie. full, not lunchbox). Upgraded axles. Hydro assist. Spare tires. Springs. Booze.
If it were me I would probably run a lighter sidewall tire than a swamper b/c of axles and overall weight. Probably MTRs or BFGs. I love my TSLs though, so I'd probably flirt with that. Maybe IROCS, but I'd talk to some owners on that. The guys I've seen with them in the past haven't been that impressive. Boggers look cool (probably the coolest looking tire out there), but I'm not a fan of their performance either. Others might disagree. I always use to dig SXs on Toys too.
I haven't really followed any actual Toyota mods in a while. For steering, I would think you could buy the arms and make the rest (tube inserts, tubing, and heims/TREs). But then again, the way some of these guys whore this stuff out there may not be much in the way of savings there anway.
Sounds like a cool build.
Well the other reason I am not welding is while this thing will be a trailer queen it will also be needed on the road too. I want to make sure I can drive down the road to Gilmer if it comes down to it. Especially since I will be borrowing a trailer and tow rig as I do not have a bumper pull car hauler for the Tundra yet.
I believe my best bet as far as steering goes is still buying it do to my time constraints and the fact that I dont think i can save that much money making myself.
I will be replacing axles and doing the doubler at a later date.
You can still drive on the street with a welded diff. Plenty of people DD welded rears. It chirps the tires all the time and you get ****ty tire wear, but I wouldn't let that stop you. Especially if it's on a limited basis.
dave brings up a good point with tire weight on those axles. scott ran SX'x? but they were smaller I think. I know I have seen guys run trails with BFG's etc and tires are usually not the limiting factor.
scott had ssr's i believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
thats it.
Yeah, the ones he still runs last time I saw a picture. Those seem to flex well and come in a 37x12.5R15 as well.
I DD'd the jeep with a welded diff for 4 years, when it ran or was not too cold or rainy. No adverse handling effects, just some noise. Never noticed wear from it either, wear comes from Katemcy.
Yes, Scott has SARS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
:)
And to your driver point, MANY people have done it. You unlock the front hubs and go. Busa. Scott. Jason. Matt. All of those guys' rigs are (Toy) drivers and welded.
Thanks Guys. I didn't know that many people ran the rigs on the road.
i know its a little different but i had a detroit locker in my truck for a while, it wasnt bad at all. but thats not welding i know.
so you're going to try and build this thing without lowering the front spring hangers? You really have to, as it provides clearance between the pitman and springs. Otherwise you have to have your bumpstops so high that you don't get any stuff, need too much lift...seriously do it now or regret it later
Kolpecker has dibs if I end up selling them.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN