Sunbeam

nope, haven't timed it yet :gigem:

It's not as straight forward doing the timing with the megasquirt, but it'll have to wait for exhaust and driveshaft. with no driveshaft it dumps fluid out faster than I can put it in.

Driveshaft is going to be kind of wierd too. I'm finding out the japanese copied then updated all kinds of stuff from british 60s roadsters. To upgrade the sunbeam to a 1310 ujoint I need a nissan Z driveshaft, same flange pattern and register. To go to dual circuit brakes a subaru GL wagon (which ironically would have been my first car if it hadn't been for the great Dallas Thanksgiving ice storm of 1995) brake cylinder bolts up with some plumbing.

sounds better with an exhaust, and the correct injector size in the ecu settings.

Magnaflow 2.25 round muffler, 2.25 exhaust, kustom header

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAdpr6gyC6o

turbo on version 2.0?

I'd like to, but there is still plenty to do and possibly redo before turbo

so here is the ridiculously overkill downpipe with the muffler slid over it. It snakes it's way from the header through the exhaust hole in the X chassis portion of the unibody. It's tight, but I think with the right hangers and that flex section it should stay put and not bang around in the tunnel :confused2

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/miataexhaust.jpg

I still need to do the rear section that goes over the axle. But thats for later

Fuel lines and driveshaft done. It was a good feeling watching the wheels turn powered by the mazda engine

still have lots to so before it's burnout time

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0620.JPG

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0621.JPG

Has is cost at least $6750 so far? If not, why bother?

Way more than 6750, I'm a car guy

Clutch and brakes plumbed.

Shifter completed, had to shorted the linkage 3/32. Modified alpine stick to bolt to t5 mount


So close. Picking up the modified radiator tomorrow

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0691.JPG

What's the HP difference between the two engines?

20 ish if you believe 60s power ratings and early 90s power ratings.

Loom and coolant lines almost done. I'm now running in to all the problems I said I'd deal with later like broken studs at the back of the engine that take 3 hours to remove


http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0710.JPG

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0711.JPG

And for reference

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0713.JPG

Played with some mig welding aluminum tonight. No spool gun, just a bottle of pure argon and a straight torch cable. Worked pretty good. My aluminum welding skills are bad, but my flap disc skills are great.

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0735.JPG


http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0736.JPG

So you managed to get the wire to feed through the liner? What thickness? Are you doing any other AL work?

.030 I had no problems. I was anticipating a birds nest and almost mail ordered a spool gun, I'm glad I didnt


i didn't touch the tensioner, I undid it to remove the steel, flipped it up and fed it through without tightening and it made consistent noise the whole time so I guess it was tight enough

i only have 1 more al welding project, and it's removing the Bosch crank sensor mount from my newest rover 4.6 and tack welding on the gems bracket. Sounds ethnic, but that's how it was done in the factory

the wire feed and heat are way different. Obviously I'm still figuring it out, but low amp and high feed compared to steel seemed to work. It makes a whooshing noise, not sizzling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sharpe

Has is cost at least $6750 so far? If not, why bother?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by robertf03[November'14 ROTM]

Way more than 6750, I'm a car guy

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Well played!

That is impressive use of a flap disc! I am amazed you were able to get 0.030 aluminum wire to feed thru a liner. I've been attempting to do some Al welding with a spool gun and the wire is soft as ****. Similar experience with the noise and it is definately way more touchy to getting the wire feed and heat dialed in than steel.

Still finishing up all of the details. It's been running very rough, high idle, stumbling when the gas is hit. I suspected it was lack of throttle position input to the ecm since the 1.6 uses a throttle switch that tells the factory ecu idle and wot with nothing in between.

I went through every tps I could find at pick n pull and a Kia sephia was the winner. Same plug, same shaft diameter, just needs a spacer with a different bolt pattern

It's running much better with this setup

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0842.JPG

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0841.JPG

It moves! And then it gets towed home by a discovery

i overestimated the remaining fuel in the tank and the maiden voyage around the block was going well so I pushed it too far. Tried pushing it and found out the brakes are dragging. Burned up the starter and one of the linkage bolts loosened up

I think one more weekend of messing with it and it'll be good to go. It's got some balls compared to the stock one

So megasquirt has a neat "feature" where it fires the coils at power up. Not a big deal for a tuned vehicle, but for one with a rough fuel map on the rich side it can create enough of a bang to blow out the fuel pressure regulator like whiskey in a delorean.

I had to put together a rigged up daughter board of transistors to fix the problem.

I can't recommend these turds for anything. Way to crude and you have to have an electronics background and an oscilloscope just to get the ****ing car to start. The only one I'd consider using in the future is the ms3pro, but at $1000 bucks it's probably time to consider a real brand

So the ecm mods worked. No more random backfire.

E fan off a Kia something or other mocked up. It really shows the shoe horn it took to fit this thing. Less than 1" clearance between water pump and fan.

Cable x speedometer drive tested and moving the speedo 25% faster than expected. Easily fixed by changing some jumpers but the chart no longer applies.

I thought it would be a few more weekends, but realistically spring before I attempt to inspect and register.

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/IMG_0876.JPG

Sweet man. One inch is plenty of clearance at the fan. Lurch has just enough room to wrestle a vbelt past the pulley/fans.

Are you converting a vss signal to drive a cable speedo? If so, did you build the motor drive, or did you buy one?

It looks like his Cable/Speedo converter is that box in the lower right.

I bought one. It's called cable x. Dakota digital also makes one but they were back ordered for a few months

Cool. I've sold a couple of the Dakota Digital ones and they work pretty good. At least that is what the guys I sold them to told me. It's a neat niche product.

This thing seems noisy, but the engine was off and the cable had a 180 in it. Hopefully it's quieter than the fuel pump when it's moving