if there is conduit you can use it as a ground and then jump it again at the panel. if the panel is grounded it will be fine.
take a pic.
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if there is conduit you can use it as a ground and then jump it again at the panel. if the panel is grounded it will be fine.
take a pic.
Does anyone know how to remove the oil cooler lines from a 98 K3500 with a 7.4? It looks like a push-lock type fitting but it is larger and plastic. I have a set of the removers but they dont seem to be working. I need to remove the hoses so I can get to the pan bolts to remove them.
you don't just break them and get new ones, like you do with the rest of the quick-connects on an old chevy?
i think there is a clip that you pull out where the slots on the side of the fitting is
On newer motors like my 8.1, yes. The 7.4 has the push-lock quick disconnects. I ordered new lines and fittings today so I think I'm just gonna take bolt cutters to the old ones and pull the fittings out with a socket. Probably needed to be replaced anyway right...
We need pictures to make a proper decision on this.
Rusty muffler in bryan is the best in town. That doesn't mean much here in college station, But i'm sure he can do a "hotpocket" worthy job.
you just dumping the stock exhaust? lame.
is a t5/231 from a s10 a bolt and go swap for a ax5/231 in a jeep YJ? if not, whats involved. i cant find a damn thing.
bwahahahahahahaha! This is a monumental occasion! Hot Pockets got his first burn!
We should make that picture of Dougie into a smiley... you know everything you type in :krebs: it pops up with that picture! And of course Ed could use the :blackkrebs: all the time.
It could be like, "Hey I just joo'd me a deal on a great HAM radio, I just pulled a http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9286/club2.jpg"
$20 part to make your brand new truck sound awful. Have you learned nothing? If you are not going to do it right, at least go to Rusty's and get a Magnaflow dumped over the rear axle. Dont think it was more thatn $150.
BUT, good burn!
see if he'll put stacks through the hood. I say you are a ***** if you don't leave there with stacks through the hood or at least behind the cab. I'd also tell him to rip that faggot catalytic converter off there. Those are dumb.
i already suggested zoomies, but he's too much of a puss!
The old one is a story in itself. It all started with a trip to Gilmer with the Brunes. Long story short... oh hell there has to be thread on this... I'll be back in a second.
Well there apparently wasn't a big to do about it... Not even a picture posted that I can find. There's a little detail in there. http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...=gilmer&page=2
the picture links aren't working for me. :(
I remember hearing stories of that flop, but never caught the connection to your old avatar. :laughing:
http://offroadrepublic.com/gallery2/...hlightId=12130
nm, found some.
They see me rollin
They hatin
Patrolling they tryin to catch me ridin dirty
Tryin to catch me ridin dirty
:laughing:
silverstar vs silverstar ultra?
ultra's always better
srsly. The current, factory bulbs would probably still be going strong when I wreck this truck, but they suck. I'm trying to figure out where the $30 for new, better bulbs is better spent. (hint: it's not on a cutout for my exhaust :flipoff2: )
I read somewhere on this here dangol interweb that the ultras are whiter, but not brighter, and they're all over ebay which is suggesting to me that maybe they really aren't as good as the original silverstars, so I was hoping someone would be able to offer a little more insight.
Does heat (say, engine heat "for example") help or hinder JB Weld's curing time?
I don't know, but doesn't heat accelerates polymer crosslinking? read the package and see if its got temperature ranges. might be in the MSDS
with a lot of epoxies (and concrete) heat accelerates curing, but the resultant material isn't as strong, so in some applications you want to keep it cool until fully cured for the strongest end product
Sharpe-
JB Weld didn't hold up to an exhaust manifold on my Jeep if that helps in your decision.